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View Karda's profile

wild turning wood

by Karda
posted 02-21-2017 05:03 AM


9 replies so far

View MerylL's profile

MerylL

73 posts in 1880 days


#1 posted 02-21-2017 05:10 AM

Curious myself. I have some I’m thinking of cutting into boards, and actually wondering if large maple branches are any good for building with.

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3877 days


#2 posted 02-21-2017 05:49 AM

For turning, it just depends on what you try and turn, knots can be turned but your tools must be sharp and take your time. I don’t think you will get much usable lumber out of branches, usually have a lot of stress and will warp when cut. Branch and crotch wood is good for turning.

View Karda's profile

Karda

1709 posts in 1063 days


#3 posted 02-21-2017 06:05 AM

I will try it if I ever get the lathe, mainly I want some trash wood to learn on

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3877 days


#4 posted 02-21-2017 06:21 AM

I taught myself with scraps of 2X6 and 2X8 pine. Pure junk wood for anything other than building construction. When you can turn something nice out of Pine, you will be ready to tackle the hardwood without any trouble. It takes really sharp tools and steady technic to turn pine and not tear it out or blow it up. LOL

View LeeMills's profile

LeeMills

678 posts in 1810 days


#5 posted 02-21-2017 02:47 PM

Turning limb is a good way to learn, the greener the easier. I really think spindle orientation is the best way to start because you learn bevel control without much danger. I didn’t because I wanted to turn a big freaking bowl but wish I did. There are also a lot more things normally turned in spindle orientation than face orientation.

Another thing I did not know to start with was stance and it should be one of the first habits.
Here is a link to some videos by Stuart Batty; he has three on stance about 12-15 minutes each.
https://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos/sort:alphabetical/format:thumbnail

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

View Iwoodtryharder's profile

Iwoodtryharder

5 posts in 968 days


#6 posted 02-22-2017 05:18 AM

I’m pretty new at turning and have made a number of interest looking pens from softer woods with knots in them. They are mostly Almond, Eastern Red Cedar, Douglas Fir, Redwood, and a drought killed Ceanothus (California Lilac) from my back yard. I filled cracks and voids with CA glue before turning and my successful outcomes (when I had them) had striking “eyes” of contrasting color.

I am told that the orientation of a branch (vertical versus horizontal) is key to assessing if it will warp during/after turning to the release of uneven gravitational stresses. Haven’t seen that yet.

Good luck to you.

View Iwoodtryharder's profile

Iwoodtryharder

5 posts in 968 days


#7 posted 02-22-2017 03:22 PM

Karda,

I checked out the Vimeo link Lee Mills gave you and one of the short videos (#7, if I remember correctly) discussed wood grain for spindle turning and gave specific attention to knots, voids, and mixed grain conditions. Another video dealt with end grain turning. Looks like good info.

Regarding inexpensive wood sources. I have visited cabinet shops in several nearby cities, told them I was just starting out and looking for small stuff to start on and did they have a scrap box/pile. Most do and most toss or burn it after it collects for a while. So far these shop have given it to me for free. Later I have gone back and given the person responsible something I have made from his wood and said “Thank you.” I have even gotten some from a local exotic wood importer who only asks for a nominal payment for his scrap, which comes in larger chunks and has to be recut by me.

View Karda's profile

Karda

1709 posts in 1063 days


#8 posted 02-22-2017 04:55 PM

ok thanks I will take a look at it

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2740 posts in 2643 days


#9 posted 02-22-2017 05:45 PM

You can do the same cuts with your craftsman gouge as a U-shaped, German or Continental gouge. The Continental is more in line with your craftsman style gouge. Have both 3/4” & 1 1/2” Henry Taylor U-shape gouges and like them more than the old sears gouge. Either a 3/4” or 1” U-shape gouge will serve you well. Either the Packard brand made by Hamlet or a P & N , U-shape roughing gouge will severe you well.

-- Bill

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