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View liamtoh1's profile

Delta 36-725 T-Square Fence - Is this OK or not?

by liamtoh1
posted 02-17-2017 02:50 PM


20 replies so far

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1262 posts in 1268 days


#1 posted 02-17-2017 02:57 PM

Do you have a parts diagram that came with the saw? Might shed some light on this mystery.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3325 posts in 1747 days


#2 posted 02-17-2017 03:21 PM

That is the way it is supposed to be. It makes it easy to hook on the back rail when you are putting it back on the saw .

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Ripper70's profile

Ripper70

1262 posts in 1268 days


#3 posted 02-17-2017 03:28 PM



That is the way it is supposed to be. It makes it easy to hook on the back rail when you are putting it back on the saw .

- Lazyman

So, if Layman is correct, there must be something else out of whack to prevent the fence from sitting flat on the table. There are adjustments that can be made to the fence itself to correct parallelism, etc. You may also want to make sure that your guide rails are properly installed and aligned. Lastly, make certain that the table top is actually flat and true.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

1147 posts in 1921 days


#4 posted 02-17-2017 03:32 PM

The back tab is okay. If the extruded sides of the fence are not flat/parallel to the top (the sides should not drag on top) they can be adjusted by loosening the bolts through the large square holes in the bottom of the center fence body. The back tab can also be adjust forwards and backwards as needed to tighten or loosen the fence when the handle lock is in the locked position.

Explain exactly what you mean by not flat.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3325 posts in 1747 days


#5 posted 02-17-2017 04:08 PM

Just to make sure that I understand what you mean by not sitting flat…
I assume that you mean that from front to back it is not the same? That is not really an issue. As long as the face of the fence is 90 degrees to the table, it will be fine. The only time that comes to mind that front to back unevenness would be a problem is if the edge you are running along the fence is wedge shaped or very thin, for example, so that the edge can slide under the fence, causing it to be able to slide in or out or wedge under the fence at some point as you run it along the fence. That can be dealt with using an auxiliary or sacrificial fence that sits flush on the table.

Note: The primary purpose of that metal clip on the back is to help lock down the back side when you lock down the fence. When you lock it down, it is pulled tight against the rail to reduce the amount of flex as a board is pushed up against it on the back side of the cut. Having it bent like that causes it to force the back of the fence downward as you lock the fence, making it less likely to flex. At least that is my assessment anyway.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View simoncpj's profile

simoncpj

23 posts in 872 days


#6 posted 02-17-2017 04:31 PM

I have one I just set up. What you are seeing should not matter in use. There are three adjustments you can, and should make to the fence.

First is parallel to the miter slot. There are two screws, one one either side of the T that rides on the front rail, but on the face inside the slot.

Second is to make the fence vertical and 90 to the table. Those are the screws on the top of the T.

Finally, my fence was not square on both sides so I loosened the bolts accessed through the bottom and shimmed it (business cards were perfect).

View dday's profile

dday

172 posts in 1789 days


#7 posted 02-17-2017 04:41 PM

I had to adjust mine in the front by the Tee to get it to glide smoothly across the table. Works like a charm once you dial it in.

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#8 posted 02-17-2017 05:52 PM

Thank you so much for all these responses. I am at work but will check into the various suggestions and update here later this week/weekend.

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#9 posted 02-17-2017 11:59 PM

Here is what I meant by “fence not sitting flat” on the table top. See the 2 pictures.

The lip of the fence (as shown in the 1st picture) is rubbing on the back rail. In the 2nd picture, I can see that there is very thin gap between the table top and bottom of the fence, which I think is the correct way for the fence to ride.
I think I need to probably adjust the fence somehow. Is there a guide?

I checked the following -
  • The cast iron is flat
  • Both the wings are flat
  • The jig to check the rail (the L shaped flat metal piece) also is flat on the wings or table top.
  • The transition from the table top to the wings is also flat.

The above things were checked using flat edge of a 2’ or 3’ level and the bubble from the level.

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1687 posts in 3225 days


#10 posted 02-18-2017 12:11 AM

That looks like it is on the stamped steel wing, is the steel wing flat and mounted so that it is coplanar with the cast iron portion of the saw top?

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#11 posted 02-18-2017 12:17 AM



That looks like it is on the stamped steel wing, is the steel wing flat and mounted so that it is coplanar with the cast iron portion of the saw top?

- patcollins

The fence does not touch the wing either on the front or back (it’s a little difficult to see in the 2nd picture). As shown on the 1st picture, the fence lip (which rides on the rear rail) catches on the rear rail.

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1687 posts in 3225 days


#12 posted 02-18-2017 12:30 AM


The fence does not touch the wing either on the front or back (it s a little difficult to see in the 2nd picture). As shown on the 1st picture, the fence lip (which rides on the rear rail) catches on the rear rail.

- liamtoh1

Like others I just don’t see that as being a problem unless I am not understanding what you’re talking about.

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#13 posted 02-18-2017 12:40 AM


The fence does not touch the wing either on the front or back (it s a little difficult to see in the 2nd picture). As shown on the 1st picture, the fence lip (which rides on the rear rail) catches on the rear rail.
- liamtoh1

Like others I just don t see that as being a problem unless I am not understanding what you re talking about.
- patcollins

The issue: The fence (unlocked) does not glide at all. The front side (where you stand in front of the saw), the fence is movable. The back side of the fence is not movable. When I see from the side, I can see that the bottom side of the fence does not touch the table top at all (which I think is correct). So, this means, that something is preventing the fence from moving. That something, as I see it, is the metal tab/lip that goes under the rear rail. The metal lip catches on the rear rail.

I am sorry, if I am still unable to explain it correctly. I just now re-read “thetinman” review and setup of the rails and would have to re-do that all over again to rule any other issue with the setup.

View Stewbot's profile

Stewbot

199 posts in 1444 days


#14 posted 02-18-2017 12:58 AM

When I move my fence (same saw) the fence locking lever needs to be mostly vertical to slide well. Also check the allen screws at the front of the fence used to square the fence to the blade, Maby they are too tight and not giving you enough play when sliding the fence.

Edit: Brads image is what im suggesting, pictures worth 1,000 words.

-- Hoopty scoop?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7358 posts in 2559 days


#15 posted 02-18-2017 12:59 AM

Sounds like the fence is sitting too far forward (towards the operator) and needs to be moved back a hair. Have you tried adjusting the alignment screws (“C” in the diagram) to move it (towards the back of the saw) a little bit?

If that don’t work, a pair of vice-grips would :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#16 posted 02-18-2017 01:04 AM

MrUnix,

Thanks for your reply. I think this may solve the issue. Let me check this out and I will post back later.

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#17 posted 02-18-2017 04:27 PM

Thank you all for your help. Brad’s suggestion helped me look into another issue. I loosened the bolts on the rule which sits on the front rail. When I pushed it hard towards the table and then I tried to move/slide the fence, it seems to work. But it was still not perfect. Upon further investigation, I noticed that the rails (front and back) were a very slightly lower for the fence to ride correctly.

So, I loosened all the wings and rails and started with “thetinman” assembly instructions and re-adjusted / tightened the front and rear rails to the cast iron top using only 2 bolts each (front and rear). Then proceeded to adjust the rails to the wings (left and right) using the remaining bolts. Finally adjusted the wings to have flat transition from the cast iron table. All said and done, now the fence work much better. I still need to make some tweaks to get it perfectly smooth. But it was 1:30am in the morning and I was really tired.

Next up, is to check the blade/riving knife for accuracy and complete the final few steps of the assembly.

Thanks again everyone for your help.

Pravin.

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#18 posted 02-19-2017 04:06 PM

The setup is now complete. The blade and riving knife was parallel to the miter slot. Slightly adjustment was needed to get the T-Square Fence parallel to the miter slot. For bevels, the 90° was spot on but the 45° needed small adjustment (it was showing as 44.8°).

My next steps are to create ZCI and Cross-cut sled.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3325 posts in 1747 days


#19 posted 02-20-2017 05:21 PM

BTW, I almost never rely on the positive 45° and 90° stops on the blade tilt angle. I’ve had too many times where it was out slightly because I cranked the wheel a little to hard to too soft and didn’t check. I now use a Wixley digital angle gauge that I bought when it was on sale for $25 at Woodcraft a while back. Now that I have it I would pay full price for it because of how quickly I can set the angle perfectly. I have even used it a few times to set the miter gauge when I needed an odd angle (22.5°) and needed to be very accurate to avoid a cumulative error.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View liamtoh1's profile

liamtoh1

59 posts in 861 days


#20 posted 02-20-2017 06:04 PM

Nathan,

Thanks. Yes, I used the Wixley Digital Angle Gauge to determine that the 45° was off.

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