LumberJocks

All Replies on Bonding metal to poly-finished wood

  • Advertise with us
View cjg225's profile

Bonding metal to poly-finished wood

by cjg225
posted 02-13-2017 02:09 PM


11 replies so far

View wuddoc's profile

wuddoc

353 posts in 4260 days


#1 posted 02-14-2017 05:01 AM

Alternate ideas.
Escutcheon Pins
Small Brass screws
Double sided Tape

-- Wuddoc

View howellusn's profile

howellusn

2 posts in 1009 days


#2 posted 02-14-2017 02:48 PM

https://www.amazon.com/Hardman-Double-Bubble-Setting-minute/dp/B00C6SLAWQ/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0E2H4C15FY575VE5VV3Z

This is what me and others at my old navy command have been using for years and it works like a charm. Nice small packets as well so you don’t waste much vs the bigger epoxy blends out there.

View Dave Polaschek's profile

Dave Polaschek

4245 posts in 1125 days


#3 posted 02-14-2017 02:48 PM

Surface prep is important. I would rough the poly behind where the metal will go (make a q-tip with a toothpick or dowel and steel wool for the fine work), and clean the backs of the DUIs thoroughly. Super-fine steel wool, perhaps? Then either 5-minute epoxy or hot-melt should work. But the surfaces have to be clean. They may have been glued with PVA glue or something which new glue will not adhere to.

-- Dave - Santa Fe

View cjg225's profile

cjg225

7 posts in 1012 days


#4 posted 02-15-2017 12:53 AM

Thanks a lot for the advice, all.

I’ll look into that epoxy. I have just Loctite 5-minute epoxy from Home Depot that I have to try.


Alternate ideas.
Escutcheon Pins
Small Brass screws
Double sided Tape

- wuddoc


Unfortunately, the pins or screws wouldn’t work. The insignia are actually usually worn as pins on a dress uniform, so their entire surface area is used for the image presented. There’s not negative space to go through with a win or screw.

Surface prep is important. I would rough the poly behind where the metal will go (make a q-tip with a toothpick or dowel and steel wool for the fine work), and clean the backs of the DUIs thoroughly. Super-fine steel wool, perhaps? Then either 5-minute epoxy or hot-melt should work. But the surfaces have to be clean. They may have been glued with PVA glue or something which new glue will not adhere to.

- Dave Polaschek


Yeah, I’m discovering I’ll need to do good surface prep. I’ve tried some hot melt on my test board already, and, oddly, experiment in which I did no surface prep is the one that has held the best. I mean, the board and insignia are clean as it is, but I didn’t rough up either for one experiment and it’s held well. I doubt that’ll be the general rule, though. I intend to rough up the poly side for sure when I move over to working on the project piece. The insignia I’ll be putting on are brand new, compared with the used, old ones I am using in my experiments. Might have an effect on how well it bonds.

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3911 days


#5 posted 02-15-2017 01:10 AM

How long has the poly been drying on the base? Give it at least a week indoors to be sure it is cured. Then just used small amounts of your epoxy to attach your Units. The chemical reaction of the epoxy could affect your poly if it is not cured.

View squazo's profile

squazo

140 posts in 2188 days


#6 posted 02-15-2017 02:45 AM

VHB tape from 3m

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3911 days


#7 posted 02-15-2017 03:25 AM

I believe the contact area of the units would be too small for mounting tape to hold

View cjg225's profile

cjg225

7 posts in 1012 days


#8 posted 02-16-2017 01:51 AM



How long has the poly been drying on the base? Give it at least a week indoors to be sure it is cured. Then just used small amounts of your epoxy to attach your Units. The chemical reaction of the epoxy could affect your poly if it is not cured.

- papadan


Less than a week since the final coat was applied. I actually have posted this same topic on another woodworking forum to maximize the information I get. Someone there pointed out this issue, as well, and told me to let the poly cure for a few more weeks to be extra sure.


I believe the contact area of the units would be too small for mounting tape to hold

- papadan


I’d say that the insignia are each, very roughly speaking (since only two are square-shaped), 1 inch by 1 inch. Someone on the other forum recommended Fastcap Speedtape to me, which seems to come in 1/4-inch wide through 1-inch wide varieties, amongst others.

VHB tape from 3m

- squazo


Does 3M make it with a polyester back? I was looking at foam-backed VHB tape from 3M and thought that would provide a decent-sized gap behind the insignia because of the thickness of the tape. Unless I am misjudging the thickness of the foam based on Internet pictures…

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1687 posts in 3407 days


#9 posted 02-16-2017 02:01 AM

Shoe-Goo

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4190 days


#10 posted 02-16-2017 03:54 AM

super glue. It bonds metal to glass and
I would expect it bonds brass to poly.

If the issue is pins on the back of the brass
pieces, dollop hot glue onto glass and
press the pin in, then pop off with a chisel.
Super glue the flat back of the cured
hot glue to the poly.

View cjg225's profile

cjg225

7 posts in 1012 days


#11 posted 02-19-2017 06:22 PM



super glue. It bonds metal to glass and
I would expect it bonds brass to poly.

If the issue is pins on the back of the brass
pieces, dollop hot glue onto glass and
press the pin in, then pop off with a chisel.
Super glue the flat back of the cured
hot glue to the poly.

- Loren


Well, the pins aren’t the issue as much as I just need to ensure the insignias don’t pop off. I actually sort of want to keep the pins intact.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com