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Tablesaw Jig

by KenR60
posted 02-11-2017 03:24 PM

2 replies so far

View brtech's profile


1066 posts in 3533 days

#1 posted 02-11-2017 06:23 PM

Cut a long board/mdf/osb 54 mm wide. Cut 2’ strips from the board, you need 3 of them.

Put a blade in that’s a bit less than 4mm thick and set to 4 mm depth.

Set the fence to cut the “left” side of the first dado and make a pass on the MDF. Then put in a 54 mm spacer and cut again. Add another spacer, make another cut, and repeat once more to cut the left side of each dado.

Then turn the MDF around and do the same sequence, cutting the “right” side.

Your fence would be set differently for the 12 and the 4 mm MDF, but the process is the same.

Edit: I guess I’m not sure if you mean to cut on the edges of the 12mm MDF. If so, the process is the same, but you need a tall fence on your miter gauge to hold the MDF vertical.

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1530 days

#2 posted 02-11-2017 08:24 PM


I am not sure whether the grooves run the length of the stock, are spaced across a relatively narrow workpiece, or in the egdes of the workpiece. If this jig is for ploughing equally spaced dados across a width of a workpiece or on the edges of a workpiece, a box joint table saw jig mounted to the mitre gauge comes to mind.

Since you wish to use your saw blade to make the dados, the jig I have in mind would be a little different from a box joint cutting jig. It mounts as an auxiliary fence to the mitre gauge. Rather than a glued-in indexing pin, there would be a removable indexing fence stop which would be reversible. Indexing the workpiece would require positioning the end of the workpiece against the fence indexing stop. After the first cut, the fence indexing stop would be reverse for the second cut, again with the end of the workpiece against the fence indexing stop.

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