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All Replies on Sawdust + glue as a filler.

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View Carloz's profile

Sawdust + glue as a filler.

by Carloz
posted 02-09-2017 08:07 PM


17 replies so far

View mrbob's profile

mrbob

182 posts in 1075 days


#1 posted 02-09-2017 08:15 PM

Tite Bond makes a colored glue, drys about the shade of Cherry.

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

960 posts in 1947 days


#2 posted 02-09-2017 08:36 PM

Yeah—doesn’t work well for stained projects. Better for clear finishes.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

509 posts in 1094 days


#3 posted 02-09-2017 08:41 PM

Sawdust is all endgrain. If it absorbs glue, it can’t absorb stain. Sawdust & glue seems like a good idea, it ain’t.

M

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5738 posts in 2999 days


#4 posted 02-09-2017 09:18 PM

It’s never worked to my satisfaction.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1356 posts in 2458 days


#5 posted 02-09-2017 09:22 PM

Have you ever stained a piece where there was some glue squeeze out that you missed? Stain doesn’t penetrate glue. There may well be some type of filler that takes stain like the surrounding wood, but I am not aware of any. Same goes for penetrating finishes like oils. They won’t penetrate the glue. Timber mate makes a great filler, but you can’t have big gobs of it on a piece and hope for great results. I have advocated the sawdust and glue filler on many occasions. That said, I would only use it to fill a small imperfection like a tear out in a dove tail, and I haven’t stained a project for a long time.

You might get better results if you apply a sealer before the stain. That might help even things out.

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

541 posts in 1782 days


#6 posted 02-09-2017 11:45 PM

A small Crack or seam can be filled with sawdus. I use it sometimes if the Crack or seam is SMALL only. You can try using titebond Hide Glue. It takes a stain. To a degree.
Gerald

View Rich Simon's profile

Rich Simon

25 posts in 1872 days


#7 posted 02-10-2017 12:04 AM

I keep hide glue for just this purpose and it works well. Dries clear. Admit though I can’t recall quality of staining over it vs surrounding.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

8378 posts in 3304 days


#8 posted 02-10-2017 12:35 AM

Hide glue and fine sanding dust is the standard for french marquetry filling.
Hide glue and sawdust would work better than any pva of course because it doesn’t block insides and it dries hard enough to sand well.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View Robert's profile

Robert

3535 posts in 1986 days


#9 posted 02-10-2017 12:52 AM

Tight joints eliminates the need for filler ;-)

I try to fill small gaps with a small wedge of wood rather than filler. The glue doesn’t matter in that case.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Jack Lewis's profile

Jack Lewis

488 posts in 1584 days


#10 posted 02-10-2017 04:17 AM

In woodturning I use almost exclusively CA and very fine saw dust. I sift sawdust into dark, light and mixed shades to better match the area I am repairing. I use a tea strainer to sift into storage containers and mark the contents.

-- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one"

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2742 posts in 3428 days


#11 posted 02-10-2017 01:35 PM

I do this often when doing inlays. Best if only used in very small voids. Sawdust is too coarse for this, so I only use sanding powder from my random orbital sander mixed with white glue. It will not take stain nor finish all that well. Titebond Liquid Hide glue will take clear finish well. It does darken the filler a bit though.

-- No PHD just a DD214

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

3071 posts in 2531 days


#12 posted 02-11-2017 09:38 PM

Epoxy with fine sanding dust works very well. Will take stain, but will be darker than the base wood. 5 minute epoxy works fine. I like to buy it in 4 oz. bottles, as it is much more economical than the little tubes.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View jeffswildwood's profile

jeffswildwood

4051 posts in 2483 days


#13 posted 02-11-2017 09:50 PM

Stain will not adhere to titebond. Just a residue on your project will not stain. So mixing with sawdust gets the same results. I have had luck with old elmers though.

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way that says "I meant to do that".

View Matt's profile

Matt

160 posts in 1457 days


#14 posted 02-12-2017 12:40 AM

I’ve done it, and it works great when the finish is and enamel paint.

-- My "projects" always look better when your glasses are broken.

View youdidntbuildthat72's profile

youdidntbuildthat72

18 posts in 1027 days


#15 posted 02-14-2017 10:03 PM

What if you stained the sawdust first then use clear glue to fill the crack or gap? would that work better than using sawdust and glue and then trying to stain it?

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

23766 posts in 3189 days


#16 posted 02-14-2017 10:08 PM

Use this trick all the time, as most of my fill-in spots involve end grain. I do add the glue into the spot first, then the sawdust ( usually from the bandsaw) smear it into the glue, then a palmsander to sand it smooth and blend into the surrounding wood.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View pontic's profile

pontic

697 posts in 1114 days


#17 posted 02-15-2017 02:16 AM

Big gaps I use Carves wood pieces and drive them in. Don’t like to use fillers for big voids. I do use sawdust and PVA glue and fill knot holes with it. Since the knot hole is darker than the rest the wood field. I usually use cherry saw dust since it is dark when mixed with PVA.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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