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View kingpong's profile

Troubleshooting table saw motor

by kingpong
posted 01-31-2017 02:59 PM

10 replies so far

View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 1159 days

#1 posted 02-01-2017 06:05 AM

Your delta comes with 5 years warranty. Just give them a call.

View WhyMe's profile


1196 posts in 2129 days

#2 posted 02-02-2017 01:59 AM

May be the motor brake is stuck.

View Pmh30097's profile


16 posts in 1902 days

#3 posted 02-02-2017 02:55 AM

A few things to check: Is the arbor lock for changing the blade stuck in the “down” position, or even just not all the way up? Have you tried the motor overheat protection circuit reset?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5844 posts in 3061 days

#4 posted 02-02-2017 06:04 PM

The thing is any repair you might try could end up voiding the warranty. So while checking some minor things would be worthwhile, getting it to the service should be higher on yourl list…unless there’s a chance you can take it back and exchange it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View martyoc's profile


44 posts in 1485 days

#5 posted 02-02-2017 06:24 PM

I had a similar problem on my table saw motor. The problem wasn’t the capacitor, but the points on the starter switch in the motor. Once in a while I have to open the motor and clean the switch points and then it works as its supposed to. Its takes about an hour to remove the motor from the saw, open and clean it, reassemble and get back to work.

-- Marty O'C

View runswithscissors's profile


3081 posts in 2593 days

#6 posted 02-03-2017 02:01 AM

Is there any kind of blade shroud or other metal part that could be contacting the blade? The screeching sound makes me suspect something like that.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View kingpong's profile


12 posts in 1382 days

#7 posted 02-21-2017 12:54 AM

(Sorry for the lack of updates, I’ve been out of commission for 2+ weeks with one bug after another)

Here’s a new twist – the severity seems to be related to temperature. One day sometime in the last 2 weeks when it was especially cold I turned the blade by hand and the scraping/screeching sound was much worse than it had been, and very metallic sounding. This weekend it was 65-70 outside, and while today was a little cooler, I tried it again. This time there was no sound at all, much like the one in the store I spun the blade on last week to see if any kind of dragging was normal. So I plugged in the saw and flipped the switch. Got the buzz sound and it really felt like the blade wanted to spin. Unplugged it, spun it by hand as hard as I could, quickly plugged it in again and flipped the switch. This time it ran, though it seemed to drag a bit accelerating. I then flipped it on and off a number of times, and while it seemed to take a bit longer than I thought it should to get up to speed, it seemed to run OK. Let it run for 2 or 3 minutes and everything was fine.

Fast forward a few hours and it is now feeling chilly in the garage. I had a cut I wanted to make, so I flipped on the saw just to check that it was still working. Didn’t move, just buzzed. Unplugged it and turned the blade by hand, now it was back to a slight screeching sound, but not nearly what it was when it was 20 degrees colder. Tried it again and it spun for few seconds, then bogged down and tripped the breaker.

As the project for which I had an immediate need for the saw has been overcome by events, I’ll wind up chasing the warranty route I guess. It does behave like it is fighting the brake, so WhyMe might be onto something. Maybe when it warms up enough there’s enough play that it can overcome the brake, but not when it is colder and everything contracts. This would be less annoying if this wasn’t already my second unit – the first one was so damaged in the box that I returned it (but I bet if I had kept it, it would be running just fine, despite the dents)

View MrUnix's profile


7533 posts in 2767 days

#8 posted 02-21-2017 01:59 AM

The buzzing noise, and starting when spun by hand, is almost always due to a faulty starting circuit – either a bad/failing start capacitor or a faulty centrifugal switch. A stuck centrifugal switch could also be causing the noise you are experiencing. But to figure it out, you would have to start taking stuff apart, and would certainly void any kind of warranty it has. At this point, it’s time to swap it out under warranty and be done with it :)


PS: In the future, it’s usually better to test the capacitors to verify they are bad before buying new ones you may not need. They are super easy to test with a cheap multimeter set in resistance mode.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View WhyMe's profile


1196 posts in 2129 days

#9 posted 01-11-2018 03:15 PM

I’ve purchased capacitors on ebay to have them bad on arrival. You don’t have a clue as to how long they’ve been sitting on a shelf. Caps do have a shelf life so you need to test even new ones.

View kingpong's profile


12 posts in 1382 days

#10 posted 01-22-2018 11:11 PM

I never did get around to contacting Delta to get this taken care of under warranty, but I finally got around to figuring it out today.

First I confirmed that it was still failing as it had previously. Then turning the blade by hand and listening in different places under the saw it seemed as though the sound was coming from the end of the motor farthest from the blade. I took the cover off the capacitors to try to look around, then spinning the blade again the sound was different. Through trial and error I found that pushing the plastic cover that goes over the top and end of the motor would increase or eliminate the noise. Using a spreader clamp to hold the cover in a position where it made no noise I tried to start the saw – it started with no problems.

After some more tinkering I concluded that the fan at the end of the motor shaft was contacting the plastic cover, causing enough drag to prevent startup. Removing the rear screw on the top of that cover and adding a 1/16” thick washer between the cover and the metal part moved the cover enough to avoid the contact. I couldn’t reinstall the shorter screw on the capacitor cover because it would pull the other cover back into contact with the fan, so I put a bead of caulk over the new gap between the covers to prevent dust entering the motor through that gap.

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