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View JADobson's profile

Help with a euro hinge disaster

by JADobson
posted 01-30-2017 12:24 AM


18 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4188 days


#1 posted 01-30-2017 12:34 AM

I would drill it out and plug with dowels,
then flush cut the dowels off, remove
the plastic inserts from the screws and
re-install from there.

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1243 posts in 2079 days


#2 posted 01-30-2017 12:35 AM

I would try to drill larger holes to where the screws went in, glue/epoxy some hardwood dowels in the holes, then drill for the right size screws for the hinge into the hardwood and attach. Whether that’s the “proper” thing to do or not, I couldn’t tell you, but I know would try it.

View Mike_D_S's profile

Mike_D_S

596 posts in 2754 days


#3 posted 01-30-2017 12:43 AM

If i was doing this repair, I wouldn’t worry too much about the look of the final repair, but more about how solid the repair was.

My solution would be to take a 1/2” forstner bit and drill a hole at the location of each screw hole, making sure not to go all the way through the door. Then buy some 1/2” dowel and glue the dowel into the hole. You’ll end up with a nice solid mounting point for the screws.

If the torn out section bother you, just fill it with wood putty that’s a close match. Since you have solid mounting for the screws, this will be cosmetic only.

The forstner holes are probably best drilled with a drill press with the depth locked so you don’t drill through, but you could probably also use a 1/2” bit in a plunge router if you clamp the router base down with the proper setting on the depth stop.

Hand held drill would work, but be careful with the depth.

Mike

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View Mike_D_S's profile

Mike_D_S

596 posts in 2754 days


#4 posted 01-30-2017 12:43 AM

@Loren and Rayne,

Guess we were all typing at the same time.

Mike

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

540 posts in 1128 days


#5 posted 01-30-2017 12:47 AM

I hate chipboard!

The correct fix is to replace the kitchen. Barring that the hinge pocket needs to be redrilled in solid material and the hinge relocated. You need a drillpress with a 35 mm (1-3/8”) Forstner bit. Drill 13/16” in at new location on door. Hold hing in place and drill the two #6 mounting holes – all 1/2” deep. Install hinge on door. Get helper to hold door in place while you mark cabinet side mtg holes. Predrill cabinet #8 and mount. Make sure the hinge tips go on each side of the frame (NA for frameless mount).

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8786 posts in 3117 days


#6 posted 01-30-2017 12:54 AM

I’d add a 1/2 thick piece of hardwood 3” wide and use new hinges. assuming the door part is
okay.

There’s a plethora of hinge designs these days and you can mount them on the hardwood and be done.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8786 posts in 3117 days


#7 posted 01-30-2017 01:02 AM

Blum works well. I just go to the supply house and explain what I need to do and they bring out a couple of
different hinges and it always works out.

It’s similar to a face frame euro hinge install:

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1243 posts in 2079 days


#8 posted 01-30-2017 01:02 AM



@Loren and Rayne,

Guess we were all typing at the same time.

Mike

- MikeDS

My thoughts exactly. At least we universally agree on the solution. lol.

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1439 days


#9 posted 01-30-2017 01:14 AM

I would tape off around the tear out as close as you can, Then fill with either bondo (my first choice) or wood filler.
Then I would drill and install dowels as mentioned.

View JADobson's profile

JADobson

1446 posts in 2651 days


#10 posted 01-30-2017 01:23 AM


@Loren and Rayne,

Guess we were all typing at the same time.

Mike

- MikeDS

My thoughts exactly. At least we universally agree on the solution. lol.

- Rayne

Thanks for the help everyone, this looks the path I’ll follow. Will there be any concern in glueing the dowels to the chip board? will regular yellow glue hold everything together?

I hate chipboard!

Yup.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

View Rich's profile

Rich

5001 posts in 1129 days


#11 posted 02-01-2017 06:09 AM

If you can get a clamp on it, I’d epoxy it back in as-is.

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2468 posts in 3484 days


#12 posted 02-01-2017 06:47 AM

I’d just router and chisel out a square, then insert plywood with good old yellow glue. When dry, I’d re-drill the three holes and it should be good to go.

I did this on a MUCH bigger scale when repairing a heritage home door and no one could tell the repair had been done.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5414 posts in 2849 days


#13 posted 02-01-2017 07:57 AM



I d just router and chisel out a square, then insert plywood with good old yellow glue. When dry, I d re-drill the three holes and it should be good to go.

I did this on a MUCH bigger scale when repairing a heritage home door and no one could tell the repair had been done.

- Kelly

It the base plate on the cabinet (not the door) Just need what Loren and some other said.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View robscastle's profile (online now)

robscastle

6484 posts in 2744 days


#14 posted 02-01-2017 11:00 AM

You could just relocate the hinge.

-- Regards Rob

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5414 posts in 2849 days


#15 posted 02-01-2017 04:57 PM

No need to relocate the hinge. If you do, then you have to deal with 3 holes on the back of the door.

I worked of over 18 years at our local school District in the maintenance dept. In that time I repaired many hinge
like that, that pulled out of the cabinet. Keep it simple and do what Loren said. That’s all the really needs to be done.

This is a “keep it simple project’’.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View JADobson's profile

JADobson

1446 posts in 2651 days


#16 posted 06-29-2017 01:29 PM

Just thought I’d give an update on this. I had wanted to drill out the problem area and glue in dowels but the problem area was about 1 1/2” across and I don’t have the tooling so I tried epoxy. It held until last week. I was going to try bondo next but saw a heavy duty wood putty at my co-op. says it will hold screws. So I filled the hole with that let it dry for two days, drilled pilot holes and mounted the door. Feels solid so far. I’ll update again if anything changes.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5414 posts in 2849 days


#17 posted 06-29-2017 03:53 PM

Thanks, always nice to get updates.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View JADobson's profile

JADobson

1446 posts in 2651 days


#18 posted 08-09-2017 10:07 PM

Another update, heavy duty wood putty held up ether than I thought it would. Let go of the threads two days ago. Figured out the simplistic fix yet and think it should stick. I cut a rectangle slightly large than tr hinge base out of 1/16” steel. Drilled two small holes that lined up with the screw holes. Clamped it to the back side of the cabinet wall and drove some metal screws through. Acts like a giant washer holding against a much larger and solid cabinet side. The screws stuck out about 1:16” and were getting caught in the insulation surrounding the dishwasher. Put a small pice of cardboard over the screws and covered the whole patch with duct tape before sliding the dishwasher back in. Door feels as solid as new and I think it’s going to last this time.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

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