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View pontic's profile

Silicone lubricants? Do you use them.

by pontic
posted 01-28-2017 05:52 AM


23 replies so far

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12945 posts in 2939 days


#1 posted 01-28-2017 06:05 AM

Silicone lubricant in a woodworking shop is generally discouraged. I use a teflon lubricant on my tablesaw trunnions but I can’t see that it works any better than oil or wax.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3928 days


#2 posted 01-28-2017 06:08 AM

I use 3in1 oil on my machines when needed, other wise I keep lubes of all types away from my wood.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

7511 posts in 3927 days


#3 posted 01-28-2017 06:12 AM

I stay away from silicon lubricants in my wood shop as much as possible!
The only time I use silicon is on the cars or my lawnmower.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2523 posts in 3503 days


#4 posted 01-28-2017 06:17 AM

I find the nay saying about silicone to be more paranoia than fact. In forty years, I’ve never lost a finish to it. Of course, I don’t recommend lubricating your wood with it to get easier cuts. I wouldn’t be without it or Teflon.

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

637 posts in 1461 days


#5 posted 01-28-2017 06:45 AM

I am starting to think that paste wax is one of the best lubes for woodworking machinery when applicable . I bought some good teflon spray when I first got my unisaw, Doesn’t seem to last long.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7529 posts in 2758 days


#6 posted 01-28-2017 06:57 AM

I am starting to think that paste wax is one of the best lubes for woodworking machinery when applicable . I bought some good teflon spray when I first got my unisaw, Doesn t seem to last long.
- DirtyMike

Or just go to the source and use paraffin wax… Johnsons is basically just paraffin suspended in naptha, with a little ‘Microcrystalline’ and Carnauba thrown in for good measure. You can get a pound of it at the grocery store for a buck or two, which will last a really long time. Great lubricant, prevents rust, and won’t attract saw dust.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View AlaskaGuy's profile (online now)

AlaskaGuy

5426 posts in 2868 days


#7 posted 01-28-2017 07:06 AM



I am starting to think that paste wax is one of the best lubes for woodworking machinery when applicable . I bought some good teflon spray when I first got my unisaw, Doesn t seem to last long.
- DirtyMike

Or just go to the source and use paraffin wax… Johnsons is basically just paraffin suspended in naptha, with a little Microcrystalline and Carnauba thrown in for good measure. You can get a pound of it at the grocery store for a buck or two, which will last a really long time. Great lubricant, prevents rust, and won t attract saw dust.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


Must no be any inflation where you live, 7 bucks a pound at HD here.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SC-Johnson-1-lb-Fine-Wood-Paste-Wax-00203/100154748

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7529 posts in 2758 days


#8 posted 01-28-2017 07:17 AM

Must no be any inflation where you live, 7 bucks a pound at HD here.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SC-Johnson-1-lb-Fine-Wood-Paste-Wax-00203/100154748
- AlaskaGuy

That link is for paste wax, not paraffin :)

Gulf Wax (paraffin) can be found in the canning section of the store, or even wallyworld. I don’t think I’ve ever seen it sold at the BORG.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Check the MSDS for Johnsons here. It’s listed as 75-85% naptha, and only 10-30% paraffin, and 5-10% caranuba. So you are only getting, at most, 1/3 of a pound of paraffin :)

PSS: The newer format SDS for Johnsons just lists all waxes together as between 10-30%

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View TheTurtleCarpenter's profile

TheTurtleCarpenter

1053 posts in 1625 days


#9 posted 01-28-2017 07:20 AM

What Brad is referring to,,,,,I buy this at the local Kroger, no shipping cost

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle"

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5834 posts in 3053 days


#10 posted 01-28-2017 12:23 PM

Silicone is not allowed in any form in my shop, for the reasons mentioned above. If you go looking for the paste wax, be aware it’s normally considered a floor wax, and probably displayed with the floor care products.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View GreenIsle's profile

GreenIsle

7 posts in 1052 days


#11 posted 01-28-2017 02:11 PM

It’s really good for door locks and hinges. Also, like to use it on the garden tools, but never tried it in woodworking.
Like I said though… great for a squeeking door.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8799 posts in 3136 days


#12 posted 01-28-2017 02:14 PM

I’ll give the Gulf Wax a try, thanks Turtle.

View LittleShaver's profile

LittleShaver

598 posts in 1179 days


#13 posted 01-29-2017 04:08 PM

Just about any kind of wax will work just fine. I’ve been using Golf Wax for a couple of years now without a problem. A few swipes on a plane bottom and you’ll be amazed. Previously I had used candles, but I like the block shape of the Golf Wax better. Doesn’t roll off the bench. Also works well on screw threads. For fine screw threads, I keep a carpenters pencil handy for easy to control graphite lubrication. Paste wax is a little easier to spread on tool tables. Been using Johnsons for that for many years.

Recently added a Paul Sellers rag in a can soaked with 3in1 oil to my arsenal. Seems to be giving the waxes a run for their money in effectiveness and ease of use. Paul has a video showing how to construct on his website, but I don’t recall off hand what he called it.

-- Sawdust Maker

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

550 posts in 1147 days


#14 posted 01-29-2017 08:51 PM

Silicone will contaminate finishes and cause orange peel or wrinkle.

The naptha in Johnson’s cuts the old layer helping prevent build up. It also makes it soft enough to hand spread as a finish.

M

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2523 posts in 3503 days


#15 posted 01-29-2017 09:05 PM

Again, I’ve used silicone around my wood projects for forty years and have never lost one to orange peel or fish eye problems. That I’ve never used a silicone based wax on anything but a car (to the dismay of some future dent repairer) aside, I’ve flooded my table tops (spindle sander, drum-disk sander, band saw, cabinet saw) with it many times over the decades. I just wipe all the excess off and go to work.

The reason I’ve flooded a table top with silicone spray (oil free) was to float rust [from sweat or a boo boo] off, and it did what nothing else I had available would do for that. Afterward, the biggest problem I had was, too little friction. A board tossed on the table top tended to keep going – right off the table top.

Key to not suffering the fish eye problem was, again, wiping it all off. When I did, I wiped as if I was trying to wipe it all off. Even after that, enough was left on the iron to lubricate, but not enough was left to cause a problem on oak, pine, fir or cedar.

To be fair, I do not use silicone as my protector because it doesn’t do that good a job against the late friend who sat a coke can on a top, or the occasional drop of sweat. Corrosion X, on the other hand, does, and lasts longer than several coats of wax. However, you still need something over it to reduce friction. That’s were the wax or paraffin is helpful, if not something like TopCoat.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7529 posts in 2758 days


#16 posted 01-29-2017 09:09 PM

If you want something that can be used for lots of purposes, dissolve some paraffin in mineral spirits. In its liquid form, you can wipe it on or dunk stuff into it, and when the MS flashes off, you are left with a nice thin layer of wax. If you lower the temperature a bit (or dissolve more paraffin into the MS), it will become a paste similar to Johnsons.

As a solid, you can rub it on parts to lubricate them (and it works great for other stuff like bi-fold closet and sliding door tracks, drawer tracks, etc…). In it’s liquid form, it can get to parts that are otherwise inaccessible, such as the threads on nuts and bolts. I keep a jar of it with a little wire basket that fits inside for just that purpose. When I want more of a paste, I just pop the jar in the refrigerator for a few minutes.

Here is about 4 ounces of paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits at room temperature:

And here is the same jar just a few degrees cooler, so the wax is starting to come out of suspension and starting to form a paste:

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View EricTwice's profile

EricTwice

248 posts in 1093 days


#17 posted 01-29-2017 09:28 PM

I generally just use wax. It lubricates and doesn’t collect sawdust like an oil or grease.

I was introduced to the sprays about 1985. I was working in Florida at the time. They are faster than waxing, but the spray doesn’t last as long as a good waxing and it doesn’t give it the same protection. Some of the guys will use it if they are in a hurry, but most of us don’t want to breath that stuff.

Also, it gets in the rubber on the powerfeed wheels and then they slip. The wheels have to be sanded so they will grab. (At least it’s fixable) It’s fun when it gets on the shafts of the powerfeed too. To get them to tighten int position you have to clean it all off or just over tighten then until they break. Which is generally the shop choice.

can you guess that I’m not a fan of the stuff?

-- nice recovery, They should pay extra for that mistake, Eric E.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7803 posts in 3473 days


#18 posted 01-30-2017 12:13 PM

I use Bostik BladeCote (no silicone)

PB Blaster for TS lift and BS blade lube:

On the table surfaces alone, I use JPW.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View pontic's profile

pontic

697 posts in 1168 days


#19 posted 02-12-2017 06:45 PM

I guess I’m with Kelly. I use “dry lube” I don’t wax my saw tops and such now. I also just wipeit down a lot before cutting wood. I I’m using poly (rarely) I alwayse sand with 220 and then sprat it on. Laquer finishes are alwayse pre treated with a thinner wipe to aid in better penetration. It doea a good job of getting any oils off of the surface. I fing fingerprints to be the biggest cause of fisheye. Use gloves when finishing.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View pontic's profile

pontic

697 posts in 1168 days


#20 posted 02-13-2017 01:35 AM

I use White Lithium grease as a releasing agent. The above jig is an example of using it when I use epoxy to glue small things together. The lithium cakes up on the surface of the wood and only the petroleum distillates penetrate. I just scrape it off and sand. I use a Watco finish so the PetDist. aren’t a problem. If I was going to Lacquer this project I would pre wipe with paint thinner any way. Epoxy doesn’t stick to White lithium. I would do more wiping and sanding for poly. Don’t use water based products anyway as they raise the grain and have nada in the way of patina.
Sorry the picture is upside down.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View pontic's profile

pontic

697 posts in 1168 days


#21 posted 02-13-2017 01:39 AM

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View EngineerChic's profile

EngineerChic

34 posts in 1064 days


#22 posted 02-13-2017 02:51 AM

Years ago I worked in a mill where we started adding silicone (or silicon) to the product we made, and it made all the carbon brushes in our motors wear out at 3-10x the normal rate. These were some big carbon brushes, on some big motors, and it became a PITA to deal with the frequent brush changes.

Ever since then, I don’t use silicone sprays in an area that has motors that I am responsible for.

View pontic's profile

pontic

697 posts in 1168 days


#23 posted 02-13-2017 03:43 AM

I am not a big time supporter of silicon lubricants. I just looked at the contents of the dry lubes that I purchased. They contain TFEC’s with no silicones. Silicones when oxidized have silicates that remain behind. They are very abrasive, easily washed away with petroleum distillates or a respray. I bet the lube maint schedule wasn’t increased in frequiency with less amounts for those motors for them to wear out so fast.
As far as wood goes I have had no problems with it.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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