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Finishing question

by Burbs
posted 01-23-2017 11:24 PM

6 replies so far

View lew's profile


13178 posts in 4610 days

#1 posted 01-24-2017 12:03 AM

I usually soak the soft/punky spalted wood with thin CA before turning. Then turn as usual. Also, you can sand and leave the sawdust in the voids and saturate those areas with CA. The CA shouldn’t affect Capt. Eddie’s finish.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Wildwood's profile


2891 posts in 2989 days

#2 posted 01-24-2017 04:15 PM

JMHO, have turned a lot of spalted wood over the years and learned not all of it is worth turning. Learned about using CA glue as a hardener from reading a Russ Fairfield article. Used his procedure of apply turn re-apply turn until finish turning on a few pens. Back then CA was the final finish for pens.

Spalted wood can reach a point in it’s decay cycle its not worth turning for me not going to waste my time. If do more damage every time a sharp tool touches it, time to toss.

My experience with commercial shellac based products is sheen fade back over time whether handled a lot or not. So would not be a big fan of shine juice. I used Hut’s Crystal Coat finish, and it does deteriorate with age.

French polish formulas vary with the finisher some simply use shellac & alcohol others add oil (BLO, olive, mineral oil) the amount of shellac flake to achieve certain cut also varies. Most claim its all about their technique of application!

Russ Fairfield use to describe the same 1/3,1/3,1/3 formula to make his homebrew using varnish or poly. Same thing as shine juice substituting chemical resins versus shellac resin. Flexner’s book & articles when into same formula.

While friction finishes oil varnish (resin) blends whether shellac, poly, or varnish based are fast any easy you are not getting build up of resin the more coats you apply. Whether commercial or homemade talking about a penetrating finish by definition. Yes, poly, shellac, and varnish are film forming finishes, but addition of oil and solvent/thinner hinder film to build up no matter how many coats you apply.

Yes these commercial & homemade finishes have a place in your finishing tool box depending upon use of the turned item and your personal preference.

-- Bill

View LeeMills's profile


702 posts in 2156 days

#3 posted 01-24-2017 04:36 PM

I agree with Bill that sometimes soft is just too soft.
Instead of CA with soft wood I use thinned shellac (2 parts DNA to 1 part shellac) so that it can penetrate better.
Dries quickly but you may need to reapply every 1/16” of final turning. I don’t think I could afford CA for a medium/large bowl.
I can’t say whether finishes may work over wax.

-- We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them. Albert Einstein

View TheDane's profile


5853 posts in 4517 days

#4 posted 01-24-2017 10:36 PM

In the words of the great John Jordan … “Life’s too short to turn crappy wood.”

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Leo Van Der Loo's profile

Leo Van Der Loo

45 posts in 1612 days

#5 posted 01-25-2017 12:01 AM

To the question of a finish over wax, that will simply not work.

Something that does not become a solid that adheres to the wood is not a base to add anything to.

-- Have fun and take care

View Burbs's profile


48 posts in 1538 days

#6 posted 01-25-2017 02:57 AM

Thanks for the responses guys. I turned the bowl down and left it thick because the moisture content was still around 20%. I sanded with blo mixed with paste wax and put Capt Eddies on the top as an experiment. Put it in a sack and put it on the shelf. I’ll pull it out in a few months and see how bad it warped/cracked and what the finish looks like. Either way, I’ll finish turning it and see how it comes out.

-- ---The day I learn nothing of value will be the day I'm laid to rest--- Burbs

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