All Replies on Leveling table saw (and a table) with a "ramp"

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View Forseeme's profile

Leveling table saw (and a table) with a "ramp"

by Forseeme
posted 09-17-2016 12:12 AM

9 replies so far

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1807 days

#1 posted 09-17-2016 03:35 PM


A large platform onto which the table saw and the assembly table set so that the work surfaces are in the same plane would solve your problem but it could create new problems. The platform would have to be shimmed or built with sturdy materials to form a long platform. If the platform is large enough, you could stand on the platform when doing work, but that creates a trip hazard, especially when focusing on the project at hand. The platform could be sized so that the saw and assembly table set on the platform while you work while standing on the floor. This would make positioning the saw and assembly table on the platform somewhat difficult and the saw and table would have to be immobilized to keep them from slipping off the platform. When you want to clear the center of the garage (I assume), the platform would remain in the way after the assembly and table saw are moved. If the platform is not positioned in the same spot it could rock and require some shimming to eliminate the rock. Lastly, the platform will take some time and money to build.

I can think of two alternatives to the platform. The first is to spend a little time mapping the floor to determine exactly how the floor is slopped. If you find a uniform slope in one direction, then re-orienting the table saw and the assembly may bring their work surfaces into the same plane. For example if the floor slopes from west to east but is flat north to south, then positioning the saw and assembly table so that ripping lumber is east to west (or west to east) would probably work.

If the floor slops in two directions, then the second alternative could be considered. This was the way I solved this problem. I raised the table saw so that its surface was higher than my work bench and any other surfaces within range of the table saw. The assembly table can then be used as an outfeed table. In my case the table saw surface sets about 1/2” above the workbench and the router table (which I use as an outfeed extension table. I have found that for all but the heaviest or largest materials I am able to keep materials flat on the table saw throughout the cut. Sometimes the larger workpieces rotate flat onto or off of the table saw, but by no more ½”; not enough to spoil or cut or make the operation unsafe.

With some measuring, the ½” margin I selected could be reduced to maybe ¼”.

Once the height that the table saw must be raised to get the desired clearance is determined, a stack of washers whose height equals the height the saw must be raised could be used as shims between the castors and the saw legs. Also a mobile platform for the table saw could be built and if required the assembly table could be separately shimmed upward by placing the properly sized shims between the assembly table castors and the legs.

I like the idea of a dedicated outfeed table. Mine is attached to the saw and diagonal bracing attaches at the base of saw making the outfeed table part of the saw. A table or cabinet on castors as an outfeed table would offer some flexibility. Normally it is used as an outfeed table. From time to time the free standing outfeed could be rolled out and act as a portable work surface. Either way, a dedicated outfeed table allows the assembly table to be used as an auxiliary outfeed or infeed table. The auxiliary infeed table is handy if you ever break down sheet goods at the table saw.

View Forseeme's profile


36 posts in 1829 days

#2 posted 09-17-2016 11:32 PM

JBrow – All of that sounds like work. I was hoping for a magic solution. Seriously, the mapping the floor sounds like a smart starting place. I was going to explain to you that I can’t rip width-wise in the shop because there is not enough room, but the shop is 24’ wide, so I think it was more I just decided it had to be lengthwise.
My original plan for a platform was one where just one set of wheels (from each table) would roil up onto the small platform. Yes, shimming, etc would be necessary.

I think the width-wise will be better (less drop in the floor), but have to measure and check. I still may go with a small out-feed table attached to the saw to support a sled, but I think I’ll wait till I have a sled fall off the end of the table to build that.

View clin's profile


1121 posts in 1883 days

#3 posted 09-18-2016 03:28 AM

I would consider shimming the casters on the outfeed table. Just remove the caster, add whatever it takes to compensate for the slope and reattach the caster, using longer screws or bolts if needed.

The table saw stand looks to have some sort of lift system to raise it up on casters. But it actually rest on fixed feet. Perhaps you could also extend those feet with some sort of heavy duty, leg levelers. If these raise the saw too high for the lift-roller system to work. I would think you could shim that too.

If these are too permanent of a fix, then I would consider the platform idea. Though I think it would be sufficient to just create a small platform that effectively fills in the valley in the floor. Something that only the the back side of the saw rides on as well as the near side of the outfeed table.

Basically just one large shim you can run the saw and table up on to. Marks on the floor and “platform” should help you reposition each time.

I wouldn’t over think it. That saw looks light enough that you could raise the back side and simply kick an appropriately thick piece of plywood under it. A scissor jack under the outfeed table to lift it and shove plywood under it would be a way to do that.

-- Clin

View waho6o9's profile


8947 posts in 3463 days

#4 posted 09-18-2016 03:39 AM

Use smaller wheels on the work bench, 2 is all you need if I understand

the situation correctly

View Forseeme's profile


36 posts in 1829 days

#5 posted 09-18-2016 07:33 PM

+1 to waho6o9 for the obvious solution that never occurred to me (and I have smaller wheels sitting on the shelf).
I can use clin’s scissor jack idea to lift one end (i’ll use a floor jack) and then swap out the wheels on the “high end”.

I’ll try just turning it all width-ways first (i’m lazy and like the least work solutions), but if that doesn;t work the wheel idea is a good plan B. Plan C if the smaller wheels are nto enough would be to shim the table saw base wheels and legs.

View Aj2's profile


3423 posts in 2685 days

#6 posted 09-18-2016 09:22 PM

I agree with Waho keep it simple.
You just might out grow that saw sooner then you think.It doesn’t take long.


-- Aj

View Forseeme's profile


36 posts in 1829 days

#7 posted 09-19-2016 02:59 AM

I agree with Waho keep it simple.
You just might out grow that saw sooner then you think.It doesn t take long.


- Aj2

True. There was a Skilsaw before it (25 years old, and still cutting wood inconsistently), and now I’m in search of a used SawStop contractor saw (been meeting too many people missing fingers or parts of fingers). Ridgid is a decent saw (it’s the old made in America one). Not as powerful as I thought it would be though. I have it running off an extension cord, so that may be hindering it a bit; but even with new blade and belt it’s not as beasty as I would like.

View MrRon's profile


5943 posts in 4130 days

#8 posted 09-19-2016 10:19 PM

Keep it simple. Just add an outfeed roller stand.

View dorald's profile


87 posts in 2679 days

#9 posted 04-20-2017 12:13 PM


I read that you coated your shop floor with Rust Bullet. I am curious as to how you like it so far and would you do it again?

It looks like the best product out for a shop / garage floor. Agree?


-- No one can make you feel inferior unless you give them permission. . .

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