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All Replies on Moving a SawStop PCS and Hammer A3-31 in a UHaul trailer

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View Matt Przybylski's profile

Moving a SawStop PCS and Hammer A3-31 in a UHaul trailer

by Matt Przybylski
posted 09-12-2016 01:12 AM


10 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7502 posts in 2736 days


#1 posted 09-12-2016 01:31 AM

Hand truck and a couple people can move those pretty easily – they aren’t all that heavy. Make sure you strap them down well once in the trailer. And I hope you are getting a covered trailer :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Matt Przybylski's profile

Matt Przybylski

580 posts in 2915 days


#2 posted 09-12-2016 01:35 AM

The trailer will be covered, yes. The hand truck I have is too high for the trailer :\ I suppose I could get another though, would probably be cheaper than having to buy a winch, though not by much if I bought at HF.

Also I’m afraid I won’t be able to get the Hammer A3-31 on a hand truck, its much higher sitting now on the casters off the ground.

-- Matt, Arizona, http://www.reintroducing.com

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4235 posts in 2525 days


#3 posted 09-12-2016 01:45 AM

Could you use an engine lift to pick them up and put in trailer. I have used my HF 2 ton engine lift to move equipment and put on trailer. With the arm, you could put things in the trailer.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

6067 posts in 2257 days


#4 posted 09-12-2016 01:47 AM

If you have a truck, I’d put them in the bed, save money, mileage and tolls. My bigger jointer is ~1375lbs. without a motor and I’ve moved it twice, once with a utility trailer and once in the back of my Dodge Dakota. It was much easier without the trailer.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View Matt Przybylski's profile

Matt Przybylski

580 posts in 2915 days


#5 posted 09-12-2016 01:50 AM

@Redoak49: I have the 1 ton lift and I’m worried that the clearance of the tool + slings + hoist will not make it between the 4’10” opening of the cargo trailer and then I’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to get the tool in there with very little time and will probably be super stressed.

@bigblockyeti: I’d still have to figure out how to get the tools up onto the bed of my truck which is MUCH higher (20” wheels) than that of the trailer. Then I’d have to find a way to cover them (plus everything else) on a 2+ day trip and hope nobody steals anything while I’m sleeping. :)

-- Matt, Arizona, http://www.reintroducing.com

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7502 posts in 2736 days


#6 posted 09-12-2016 01:52 AM

The hand truck I have is too high for the trailer : I suppose I could get another though, would probably be cheaper than having to buy a winch, though not by much if I bought at HF.
- Matt Przybylski

I don’t see what the problem is if you got that ramp you were talking about… or even just using a couple of 2×10’s or 2×12’s as a ramp. Lots of ways to move those machines, and not many of them involve a lot of money – just a little creativity.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Mike_D_S's profile

Mike_D_S

596 posts in 2751 days


#7 posted 09-12-2016 02:13 AM

It may not work for you, but when I’m loading equipment in and out of trailers, I use the rise of my driveway to help the height difference. I’ll hitch the trailer to the truck and back up so the wheels of the trailer are right at the end of the driveway. Depending on the trailer length and it’s hitch height, I can reduce the 16 to 18 inch height difference to just a few inches. The smaller height difference and lower ramp angles just make things easier overall.

My neighbor and I have loaded and unloaded some fairly heavy items off of trailers like this that we definitely couldn’t have probably pushed up a steeper ramp.

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View tyvekboy's profile

tyvekboy

1930 posts in 3550 days


#8 posted 09-12-2016 03:15 AM

Matt, I would first take off any wings off the table saw. Then I would make sleds upon which I would attach the table saw or A3-32.

This is How I would build the base of the sled for the table saw.

This is the complete sled with a 3/4 inch thick plywood top.

Next I would bolt each machine to their respective sleds. You can attach 2 metal attachment points to the sleds so you can attach the cable/hook of your winch. You can figure out the details.

Now you can just drag it up the ramp or better yet, use lengths of pipe under the sleds to make it easier to take it up the ramp you plan to use. I’d use about 4 or 5 lengths of pipe. Put 3 under the sled and add the extra pipes as needed as the sled moves along.

You may consider putting the 2 X 4 cross pieces near the ends so you can slip a 2 X 4 under the sled and use it to lift the heavy sled up and slip the pipes under the sled runners.

Hope this gives you another idea on how you can do the job.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

View MikesProjects's profile

MikesProjects

172 posts in 2439 days


#9 posted 09-12-2016 05:46 AM

I made a 8’ ramp out of 2×4’s & plywood to move a sawstop & jointer. I kept the ramp, it comes in handy from time to time. Just take it easy over rough roads & consider renting a few moving pads from uhaul. They come in handy, you cant have enough, 20 sounds about right.

-- -Mike, Southern California, YouTube User ( Give & Take )

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1368 posts in 1457 days


#10 posted 09-12-2016 11:28 AM

Matt Przybylski,

One option to consider is to contact some local moving companies and arrange for professional movers to load and unload the machines. I went this this route when moving a number of heavy shop machines, including a PM66 table saw, from a walk out basement up a hill into the home’s garage.

The second option is to consider renting piano dollies from a local equipment rental store. They are a pair of short 2-wheeled dollies. One dolly is placed at one end of the machine and the other dolly is placed at the other end of the machine. The dollies are then strapped together and against the machine. Once strapped in place, the machine should have greater ground clearance. Some blocking under the machine and that sets atop the dolly shoe would provide a little more ground clearance, if needed. A big advantage of the piano dollies is that they lift from the bottom where the machines are designed to carry weight.

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