All Replies on Looking for base design for mini pallet jack and cabinet saws

Using your 1st saw picture to go by…

If you can make the torsion box base so the pallet jack will slide in under the saw body ( I.E. It slides in from the LEFT in your picture) I believe the weight of the saw will counter balance the extended rails.

But if you make it so the pallet jack is gonna slide in from the FRONT you will need to slide it in “off center” to the right to be able to balance the whole shebang. It will take a bit of trial-and-error to figure out just how far to the right it will need to be.

Either way, the torsion box should be able to handle the weight, because most all of the weight will be on the saw end.

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yea..that is what I was thinking Joe. Pallet jack under motor cover for the Unisaw and same area under PM66. Will find out. Guess that will be the next project… pallet jack stands for my machines. Surprising, I only know 2 people on the whole internet who has done such: Loren here on LJ and ””Woodnerd page. . Seems like a fantastic idea instead of spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars for mobile stands (I put in $90 so far for my jointer and bandsaw). The cabinet saw mobile stands would cost easily $150+ each. Just seems handy to have a “mini” pallet jack.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

So…. if you’re using a pallet jack, why not use pallets with a plywood top (added by you)? Great idea by the way.

Wich… a full size pallet is way too large for my Unisaw / PM66 and other machines. I finished up a prototype last night of a front & side entrance pallet for my PM66. Will see how this goes tonite. It’s only 24”x24” so only the base of the cabinet saw will work. Will see how “tippy” it is for the 52” rails and come up with solutions next.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος"

Pallets are taller than you need. You don’t need much more
than 3” tall feet and a 3/4” piece of ply underneath machines
in the under 500lb. class. I use scrap 2×6 short pieces
sometimes. I also try to shape the base a little to make
it fit the machine aesthetically… I might add a little extra
for a storage rack of some kind under the wing of
a unisaw for example.

For my heavier machines on wood bases I fill in everything
underneath the plywood except where the forks will go.
This prevents sagging. I don’t think a torsion box is
necessary but it might look cool. Banding and/or painting
the ply and flushing the feet or insetting them equally
could add a more crafty quality to the base. I do care
about such things but I often don’t bother because I
just want to get the job done.