LumberJocks

All Replies on Sanding newly built custom cabinets

  • Advertise with us
View SweetTea's profile

Sanding newly built custom cabinets

by SweetTea
posted 09-05-2016 05:02 PM


4 replies so far

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1368 posts in 1484 days


#1 posted 09-07-2016 03:16 PM

SweetTea,

When building a face frame, ensuring the joints are as flush as possible, sanding stiles and rails to final grit before gluing, and flushing up and sanding the joints once the face frame is assembled is my favored approach. I like this approach because I like to sand at a downdraft sanding table and an assembled face frame is difficult to manage. I use the random orbital sander even though a wide drum sander is in the shop. I avoid using the drum sander because it creates cross grain scratching which I find difficult to remove without a lot of additional post-drum sander sanding.

I start the pre-sanding with a grit that removes mill marks in a reasonable time, usually with 120 grit, though sometimes 100 grit is the first grit. Sanding the entire length of the rails and stiles while staying a few inches away from the areas where the rails and stiles join ensures an even surface without spoiling the joint area. After working through the grits to final grit during pre-sanding and gluing the face frame, the un-sanded joint areas of the face frame are flushed up and sanded. Sanding with the initial grit is mostly limited to the area of the joint, with limited feathering into the surrounding already sanded areas. As the grit increases, the feathering extends further out from the joint. At the final grit, feather sanding runs out a good ways from the joint.

I like to mark the workpieces with pencil marks and sand the entire surface until the marks are gone before changing grits. The pencil marks work especially well when sanding the joints flush and feathering into the pre-sanded areas of the rails and stiles. Since I find that more material tends to be removed on the outside edges when sanding corners, a piece of scrap the same thickness as the rails and stiles butted against the outside corner provides greater support for the sander and helps reduce the pillowing effect.

If a defect is found, keeping the sander over the defect a little longer but then progressively sanding out from the defect does a reasonable job of feathering the depression caused by the required over sanding. As the over-sanding of the defect continues, the distance out and away from the defect must also be done to ensure the over sanded defective area is feathered with the surrounding surface.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6704 posts in 1276 days


#2 posted 09-07-2016 03:51 PM

when I worked in a custom cabinet shop we had a light box that you could take a door to and hold it at an angle to see all imperfections hope this helps you out we also only used ROS

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View Cooler's profile

Cooler

299 posts in 1407 days


#3 posted 09-07-2016 06:29 PM

Did you check to ensure that all the face frame material is the same thickness before you start. I buy my red oak at the big box stores and the width and thickness can vary to a noticeable amount.

-- This post is a hand-crafted natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar should not be viewed as flaws or defects, but rather as an integral characteristic of the creative process.

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

347 posts in 3026 days


#4 posted 09-07-2016 09:38 PM

Sweet tea, just out of curiosity, why not go Euro style and take the face frame out of the equation?

Anyway, its probably important to know how you are putting your face frames together… if you are planning all your face frame stock together and doweling, domino or pocket screwing them together they should come out pretty flush from the start… if they are not, you could take a hand plane and hit the high boards, then hit the face with a scraper and finally do your final sanding.

You could also consider sanding all part of your frame together, providing a nice big surface to sand, and not roll over edge that looks crappy in the end.

I started with framed cabinet and now only do frameless. The veneering is a snap if you get used to it and overall assembly, sturdiness and IMHO look is superior given today’s desire for more modern look.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com