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All Replies on Need assistance for building a desk top spanning 80"

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View Tim's profile

Need assistance for building a desk top spanning 80"

by Tim
posted 08-30-2016 06:13 PM


16 replies so far

View ErichK's profile

ErichK

89 posts in 1205 days


#1 posted 08-30-2016 06:30 PM

I did this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Solid-Maple-Workbench-Top-96-Wide-x-30-Deep-x-1-3-4-Thick/G9916?utm_campaign=zPage with my desk. It is CRAZY heavy, so you may need to give it legs depending on what the sides of the cabinet are made of.

Additionally, it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to put a vertical brace along the back or something since you’re free-standing it.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5560 posts in 2893 days


#2 posted 08-30-2016 06:43 PM

The frame is necessary but it should be 3 1/2 inches wide for that span. The one you show in your photo doesn’t look wide enough. Get some pine 1×4’s from the BORG, that should be cheap and work well.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Tim's profile

Tim

47 posts in 3754 days


#3 posted 08-31-2016 03:23 AM

Thanks for the input, I’ll try thicker supports first.

-- Tim - Austin, TX

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2616 posts in 2387 days


#4 posted 08-31-2016 04:53 AM

Consider using 2 inch black pipe. I made a desk spanning a 10’ room for my wife. I had cleats along three sides, but it sagged a bit, so I put a pipe right across about 8 inches from the front edge. I used a forstner bit to make holes for it in the side cleats ( one was just a circle and one was U shaped to get the pipe in) it lasted 10 years until we moved her office into the attic.

It still flexed if you leaned on it. I think square tubing would be stiffer.

-- I always knew gun nuts where afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1872 posts in 2858 days


#5 posted 08-31-2016 05:02 AM

There is an excellent solution for this problem but you’d have to be prepared to fork over more than $100 to do it.

A torsion box made from honeycomb material and faced with laminate would do the trick. Kraft paper honeycomb is the cheapest and aluminum is probably the stiffest. A 2” thick top using aluminum for the core would probably be plenty strong.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View Robert's profile

Robert

3558 posts in 2022 days


#6 posted 08-31-2016 12:11 PM

You need a stronger apron like bondo pointed out. You could even consider angle iron

Beef up the front and rear edges with some 2×2 hardwood like oak.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6597 posts in 1254 days


#7 posted 08-31-2016 03:18 PM



The frame is necessary but it should be 3 1/2 inches wide for that span. The one you show in your photo doesn t look wide enough. Get some pine 1×4 s from the BORG, that should be cheap and work well.

- bondogaposis

DITTO

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View ScottM's profile

ScottM

745 posts in 2688 days


#8 posted 08-31-2016 06:27 PM



Consider using 2 inch black pipe. I made a desk spanning a 10 room for my wife. I had cleats along three sides, but it sagged a bit, so I put a pipe right across about 8 inches from the front edge. I used a forstner bit to make holes for it in the side cleats ( one was just a circle and one was U shaped to get the pipe in) it lasted 10 years until we moved her office into the attic.

It still flexed if you leaned on it. I think square tubing would be stiffer.

- RobS888

I like this one. You could hide the pipe behind a pine apron at the front.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12928 posts in 2922 days


#9 posted 08-31-2016 06:30 PM

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1441 days


#10 posted 08-31-2016 06:43 PM

Another simple fix would be to just add half a leg in the middle.
Like so.

View Tim's profile

Tim

47 posts in 3754 days


#11 posted 09-18-2016 08:48 AM

Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate the input.

I’m going to try the thicker bracing/frame first. Not feeling the pipe solution but I’m also not ruling it out.

I’ve also been thinking about ErichK’s solution but making a solid top myself. Would glueing milled 2×3’s work? I figured I could fire up the planer and build a nice, and heavy, desk top.

I was sent to Trinidad for work, and I think I have another week here before I fly home so, I’m still planing this out.

-- Tim - Austin, TX

View muleskinner's profile

muleskinner

941 posts in 2978 days


#12 posted 09-18-2016 12:51 PM

JAAune’s solution only cheaper … Recycle shop or Habitat for Humanity shop… hollow core door. Pretty stiff from the get-go. Add a stiffener on the front edge.

-- Visualize whirled peas

View wichman3's profile

wichman3

95 posts in 1163 days


#13 posted 09-18-2016 02:20 PM

When I built a home office for my (now ex) wife, I used kitchen counter tops for the top.
Very rigid with a backsplash to keep stuff from rolling off the back and a slight lip to keep stuff from falling off the front. I used a very light colored pattern to keep the office bright and to make items on the desktop visible.

View Tim's profile

Tim

47 posts in 3754 days


#14 posted 09-18-2016 02:27 PM

Where do I find an aluminum, or kraft paper honeycomb, material for a torsion box?

-- Tim - Austin, TX

View muleskinner's profile

muleskinner

941 posts in 2978 days


#15 posted 09-18-2016 02:42 PM



Where do I find an aluminum, or kraft paper honeycomb, material for a torsion box?

- Tim

Inside that hollow core door you get at the recycle shop. :)

-- Visualize whirled peas

View Tim's profile

Tim

47 posts in 3754 days


#16 posted 09-18-2016 02:45 PM

Gotcha

-- Tim - Austin, TX

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