All Replies on Bork or Sharkguard for Unisaw. First Kickback

  • Advertise with us
View PatrickIrish's profile

Bork or Sharkguard for Unisaw. First Kickback

by PatrickIrish
posted 08-30-2016 05:12 AM

10 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


8212 posts in 3050 days

#1 posted 08-30-2016 05:38 AM

Mine has the Biesemeyer quick splitter quick release attachment BUT it did not come with one.
- PatrickIrish

If you can live without the pawls, the splitter is just a piece of sheet metal cut to shape. Even with minimal metal working skills, it should be pretty easy to make one from an old saw blade. Since you already have the quick release, it would be a shame to get rid of it. Either way, it would not have helped with what you showed in the video – the wood didn’t even make it past the end of the blade.


PS: Another alternative would be a Delta disappearing splitter if your saw is right tilt (which I believe it is).

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Redoak49's profile


4872 posts in 2839 days

#2 posted 08-30-2016 11:12 AM

It would be best to stand off to the side when you are ripping and not in line with the piece coming off the saw.

View OSU55's profile


2658 posts in 2840 days

#3 posted 08-30-2016 11:45 AM

A splitter or riving knife won’t help with what happened in the video. Appears you twisted the front of the wood piece away from the fence while in the cut, but it’s hard to tell.

View HokieKen's profile


15058 posts in 1989 days

#4 posted 08-30-2016 12:06 PM

To address your question, you can use both blade kerfs with a thin blade splitter/riving knife. If you buy a full kerf splitter, you’re stuck with using full kerf blades only. But with a 3 HP saw, unless your cutting really dense, thick wood you probably don’t really need the thin kerf anyway.

But, as everyone else pointed out, a splitter wouldn’t have helped you anyway. It’s hard to say for sure but, my best guess is that your fence isn’t parallel to the blade but is closer at the back of the cut. I would check your fence alignment and make sure that it’s not pinching the wood at the back of the blade.

Good luck!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View UpstateNYdude's profile


962 posts in 2834 days

#5 posted 08-30-2016 01:23 PM

You might want to use a non-twisted piece of wood, it holds alot of tension and when you slice in it can pinch that gap. I don’t know how dry that pine is you were cutting but you might want to at least joint it to flat it out.

-- Nick, “I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it.” – Vincent Van Gogh

View PatrickIrish's profile


164 posts in 2896 days

#6 posted 08-30-2016 04:04 PM

Thanks guys. I’ll check my alignment again. I used a tape measure and it was spot on in several locations from either side of the fence to the miter slots. Also square from the fence to the blade. I’ll use a combination square and check again.

Dont have a jointer yet, next purchase or dusting off an old craftsmans in my dads shed.

Going with a thin kerf splitter or riving knife sounds like a good idea. I was really comfortable on my bosch 4100 the past 4 years. Never had an issue with binding or kickbacks. I also used the riving knife.

I’ll look into making one the that can slip into the biesemeyer quick release the next day or so. If it’s a pain in the arse I’ll looking into the BORK or sharkguard.

The MJ splitter looks easy. I’d likely want to mount it closer to the blade though from the photos I’ve seen.

View HokieKen's profile


15058 posts in 1989 days

#7 posted 08-30-2016 04:31 PM

Thanks guys. I ll check my alignment again. I used a tape measure and it was spot on in several locations from either side of the fence to the miter slots.

- PatrickIrish

No, no… and some more no ;) You absolutely cannot properly align a fence with a tape measure with any kind of reliability. A combination square is okay, a caliper is better and a dial indicator is the best. Remember that if it angles in toward the blade even a little bit, you’re burning your wood on the back of the cut at best and getting injured from a kickback at worst. And, a splitter will make it even worse because the fence will be pinching against the splitter even more than at the back of the blade.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View AandCstyle's profile


3286 posts in 3108 days

#8 posted 08-30-2016 10:00 PM

Patrick, I have a SharkGuard (SG) and like it a lot. I got the full kerf model and wish I had gotten the thin kerf one. My TS is 3hp, but sometimes I want to use a thin kerf blade to not waste expensive stock. One draw back to the SG is the time from placing your order until your SG arrives, IIRC mine took about 3 months. FWIW

-- Art

View Luthierman's profile


225 posts in 1938 days

#9 posted 08-30-2016 10:20 PM

The first thing I noticed, and has already been mentioned, is the wood you are trying to cut. Trying to rip cupped and twisted wood will do that, almost every time. One other thing, on big saws such as yours it has been recommended to make the fence a degree(ish) away from parallel to the blade. You want the space to be slightly larger behind the blade to avoid pinch which can also cause kickback.

-- Jesse, West Lafayette, Indiana

View 000's profile


2859 posts in 1750 days

#10 posted 08-30-2016 11:30 PM

Besides the warped piece of wood, the first thing I saw was the gripper started to slip and then you let up on the pressure. That’s when the wood started bouncing and the kickback happened. Can’t be of much help other than saying you need to hold the material down better and choose better material. Maybe check the gripper surface and make sure it’s clean. Also as said above, fence needs to be in alignment.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics