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All Replies on $ amout to offer for older unisaw with bent arbor: Answer $300

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View Imakenicefirewood's profile

$ amout to offer for older unisaw with bent arbor: Answer $300

by Imakenicefirewood
posted 08-24-2016 05:58 PM


23 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4187 days


#1 posted 08-24-2016 06:01 PM

$100.

It could need a flange-facing. Woodgears.ca has
an article on how the guy did a diy flange face
job to correct a little wobble.

If the arbor is actually bent that’s a different issue,
but replacements are available.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7502 posts in 2738 days


#2 posted 08-24-2016 06:11 PM

OWWM Rule No. 1: The seller, standing in front of the machine with access to all sides and in full daylight, will not/cannot describe the machine correctly.

Blade wobble doesn’t mean it has a bent arbor. As Loren points out, it could just need a good facing, or it might be in need of bearings. If it really is the arbor, then figure on another ~$150 for a new one (Sawcenter has them for $139).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4592 posts in 4281 days


#3 posted 08-24-2016 07:10 PM

I would make sure i could run it
Lots of the shop 5hp saws are 3 phase

Converters work but it should factor into whether you want to mess with it

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View MikesProjects's profile

MikesProjects

172 posts in 2441 days


#4 posted 08-24-2016 07:34 PM

Yup, DrDirt called it, probably 3 phase. If it has an issue and he said to make an offer I think $100 seems like a good place to start. If nothing else you could pull the fence off & resell it for $100. I wouldn’t want to go higher than $200 but others may be more frisky then I. It could be worth $350 though, I don’t know. I know its worth $500 if it worked good, was rust free & clean.

-- -Mike, Southern California, YouTube User ( Give & Take )

View Imakenicefirewood's profile

Imakenicefirewood

77 posts in 1895 days


#5 posted 08-24-2016 10:28 PM

Thanks. I’ll ask about the 3 phase, and maybe make an offer just to get the fence and resell the saw itself. I really don’t have room for two Unisaws.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 2025 days


#6 posted 08-25-2016 12:24 AM

300-350$ target. I’d still do up to 500$ for dusty but pretty good shape.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8343 posts in 3914 days


#7 posted 08-25-2016 01:37 AM

I can’t imagine what would have to happen to actually bend the arbor. It’s likely something else….bearings, belts, etc., but ya never know. If it’s single phase and in good shape, I’d go upwards of $500. ..it really depends on what condition it’s in.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

637 posts in 1441 days


#8 posted 08-25-2016 02:55 AM

Could tilting the blade with a zero clearance insert bend the arbor? I have bent a blade like that thinking my hand wheel was just hard to turn.

View Imakenicefirewood's profile

Imakenicefirewood

77 posts in 1895 days


#9 posted 08-25-2016 08:38 PM

He also told me that he kept using the saw when it needed new bearings until he could get the new ones. This resulted in it getting pretty hot and possibly warping the arbor. I’m not sure. I’ll stop by again next week and ask more about it.

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

637 posts in 1441 days


#10 posted 08-25-2016 08:48 PM

If its 3 phase i would pass on it, you never know you be getting a deal or in over your head.

View ErichK's profile

ErichK

89 posts in 1202 days


#11 posted 08-25-2016 08:52 PM



If its 3 phase i would pass on it, you never know you be getting a deal or in over your head.

- DirtyMike

I woudn’t. IF you have 220 1 Phase, a VFD is pretty darn cheap and thanks to the above opinion, can get you saw really cheap! I got a great PM66 for $600 because it was 3 Phase, compared to ~$1200-$1500 being the going rate in the area.

View Clarkie's profile

Clarkie

489 posts in 2380 days


#12 posted 08-25-2016 10:21 PM

Save yourself a lot of heartache and pain and go buy the fence you need. There is a good reason why he hasn’t fixed the saw.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6565 posts in 1251 days


#13 posted 08-25-2016 11:52 PM



Yup, DrDirt called it, probably 3 phase. If it has an issue and he said to make an offer I think $100 seems like a good place to start. If nothing else you could pull the fence off & resell it for $100. I wouldn t want to go higher than $200 but others may be more frisky then I. It could be worth $350 though, I don t know. I know its worth $500 if it worked good, was rust free & clean.

- MikesProjects

I would start at $100 go up from there but max at $300

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 2025 days


#14 posted 08-26-2016 12:46 AM

Hell. Buy it just for the fence, put your old one on it, change some bearings and resell it. Unless the bearing spun I doubt there is any lasting damage.

Plus 3 ph motors are damn near bullet proof compared to single phase.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Imakenicefirewood's profile

Imakenicefirewood

77 posts in 1895 days


#15 posted 08-31-2016 04:35 PM

I went and looked at the saw again and looked up the serial number. Turns out it is a 1980 model with a 2hp single phase motor. It hasn’t run in quite some time, 6-8 years, and is just collecting dust. I offered $100, and he said that he was closer to $500. We talked for a little while about what it might take to get it running, and he started to see why my offer was so low. I did not get the saw, but who knows what the future may hold. At least now he knows I’m interested in it.

I ended up getting a little bit of hardwood and a 1/2” sheet of pine ply to make a few flat panel cabinet doors for my outfeed table, and we parted ways.

I was glad I didn’t offend him with the low offer, because he is a great supplier for me. A lot cheaper than the hardware stores…I get it for barely above his cost. Job number one: keep the supplier happy.

Thanks for all of the input and help. If anything happens in the future, I’ll fill you in.

View Imakenicefirewood's profile

Imakenicefirewood

77 posts in 1895 days


#16 posted 09-23-2016 04:47 PM

Well I ended up buying the saw for $300. I was just about to pull the trigger on a unifence for $200 and realized that I may be able to get the Biesmeyer fence and the Unisaw for not a lot more, so I went back and offered him $250. We landed at $300.

My brother helped me get it home and in the garage (which is a mess…been building book shelves for a few local teachers.) I plugged it in and the motor runs fine. The fun will come when I put the arbor back in and try to figure out why the blade has some wobble in it.

There is a little rust on the top, but other than that it seems to be in pretty good shape for sitting idle for the better part of a decade.

It came with the original arbor and the new one he installed with new bearings , but it still had the wobble. After the new arbor didn’t work, he just bought a new saw and moved this one off to the side.

I checked the washer and the nut to see if they are flat. The washer is, but the nut is not. Could this be the mysterious cause to the wobble?

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2530 posts in 2337 days


#17 posted 09-23-2016 08:12 PM

Well now you get to do some detective work. My suggestion is a dial indicater set touching the arbor.Turn the belt by hand and see what’s that looks like.
Do the same with the flange face.
Report back with the numbers if it isn’t obvious.
It’s really not very difficult kinda fun too.

Aj

-- Aj

View MikesProjects's profile

MikesProjects

172 posts in 2441 days


#18 posted 09-23-2016 09:05 PM

my fancy 10 year old circular saw developed a wobble. I found a hardly used circular saw (same model) locally. I swapped the hardly used washer & nut to the well used saw & now it is wobble free so I would defiantly say it is a possibility for sure. I would of been a doubter if I didn’t witness it for my self.
The saw looks great, so does the fence. You did good with he price.

It may be worth the money to order a new washer & nut, could salve all the problems…

-- -Mike, Southern California, YouTube User ( Give & Take )

View Joshh's profile

Joshh

28 posts in 1156 days


#19 posted 09-23-2016 09:07 PM

I offered $100, and he said that he was closer to $500.
- Imakenicefirewood

If someone offered me $100 for a table saw with good motor, good fence etc. even wobbly $100 I am pretty sure he would avoid my neighborhood for some pretty long time.

View Imakenicefirewood's profile

Imakenicefirewood

77 posts in 1895 days


#20 posted 09-24-2016 03:25 PM

Yeah. I told him that I hoped it didn’t offend him, and he laughed and said it would take a lot more than that to offend him. He’s an old cowboy, and just an all around good guy. We live in a more rural area (even though it grew a lot with this last oil boom) and most people are pretty laid back. I also went to school with his kids.

Anyway, it worked out ok. Now I just have to make the time to tinker.

Edit:
Aj: I think it will be fun too.
Mike: Thanks. When I get it running correctly, I will have to make a decision on which saw to keep. The 1952 unisaw or the 1980. I have to say that having one too many unisaws is not a bad problem though.

View Imakenicefirewood's profile

Imakenicefirewood

77 posts in 1895 days


#21 posted 10-19-2016 06:55 PM

Finally some news about the saw. I attempted to put it back together, but I was missing a few parts that go into the arbor assembly, so I made an order from the Saw Center website. After I got it all back together, I checked both the threaded part of the arbor and the flat face of the arbor for wobble. The threaded section only read any movement when the dial indicator went between the threads. It was spot on. The face had either .003” or .004” depending on where I placed the tip of the dial indicator. In my mind that is pretty darn close to flat, But I have been wrong before.

I cleaned the top up a little and squared it to the blade, and clamped the fence square to the miter channel to make a cut. It ran a little louder than my other saw, but seemed to cut just fine.

Are those measurements acceptable, or am I crazy?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7502 posts in 2738 days


#22 posted 10-19-2016 07:19 PM

The proof is in the resulting cut, and if satisfactory, then you could probably just leave it as it is. But most places seem to indicate that 0.001” at the arbor flange is the upper limit. You might want to visit this web page by Matthias over at woodgears for some pointers, where he trues up the arbor on his Unisaw:

Fixing the wobble in a table saw arbor

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Imakenicefirewood's profile

Imakenicefirewood

77 posts in 1895 days


#23 posted 12-02-2016 01:34 AM

Well I used the trick as suggested above by Brad (thanks), and I got the wobble on the arbor down from 0.003-0.004 to about 0.0015. There was still some noticeable wobble on the blade as the saw was shutting down, and I thought it might be the harmonics of the blade. So I put a brand new rip blade on the saw and it seemed to help, but there was still a little that could be seen as the saw is shutting down.

I wanted to see what the difference in the thickness of the blade and the thickness in the cut was, so I scored a piece of hard maple and measured. The cut was 0.016 wider than the teeth on the blade. I think this may be about as good as I can get it without replacing all of the internal workings.

Sorry…no pictures of the process. The phone was plugged into my speakers while I was working on all of this.

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