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View DocSavage45's profile

More Power for My Bandsaw?????

by DocSavage45
posted 08-22-2016 06:24 PM


31 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7388 posts in 2595 days


#1 posted 08-22-2016 06:37 PM

It’s the blade that does the work… the motor just keeps it moving. With a good blade and proper setup, a lot of horsepower is not really needed. Although, a lot of people throw horsepower at the machine to overcome that fact. For the Delta 14” band saw, which your saw is a clone of, the manual has this to say about required horsepower:

Cheers,
Brad

PS: I have a 1/2hp on my Delta and have never felt the need for more. YMMV.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5207 posts in 4356 days


#2 posted 08-22-2016 06:40 PM

And the answer is…..................Wait, Wait….......
No!
The frame is only so strong, and as an owner of the 0555LX, there is just so much the saw can do.
I wouldn’t over tax the saw frame, and mine, with a 1/2” 3 tpi blade, is most adequate.
Wanna put a huge engine in a vehicle? Wanna have to replace the whole drive train?
Some may have different opinions.
BTW, I really like my 0555LX.
Bill

-- [email protected]

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#3 posted 08-22-2016 07:03 PM

Thanks guys!

What size blades are you using to cut veneers?

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5501 posts in 3639 days


#4 posted 08-22-2016 07:20 PM

The motor can be any hp from 1/3 up. Obviously you wouldn’t want to use a 3 hp motor (cost), but on a 14” BS with a riser, 3/4 hp seems to be about right.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2657 posts in 2530 days


#5 posted 08-22-2016 07:24 PM

Will you see much improvement over current 1 HP 115 V Asian motor with say 1 ½ or 2 HP 115V Asian motor?

Unless you upgrade to 220 V motor rated more than 2 HP don’t see where will gain anything more than have right now. Finding one to fit might be minor problem.

If everything is working now would leave well enough alone. Only limitation have now is blade size and maybe rate of feed depening upon wood species (domestic verus exotic). Horsepower isn’t the problem!

If planing on doing a lot of resawing for several years to come invest in a bigger saw. Especially if work with lot of dense exotic wood species. Wider and better (carbide) blades and more HP make bigger saws make life easier.

-- Bill

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#6 posted 08-22-2016 07:31 PM

Mr.. Ron thanks!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#7 posted 08-22-2016 07:44 PM

Bill,

it’s a 1 hp motor can be wired to 220. Looking at the newer extreme series GO555X I see different balanced cast Iron wheels and a 1.5 hp motor? I’m thinking that’s the upper end for this model saw or?

I know bigger is better when it comes to resawing. Done a bit so far. Fairly smooth cuts.

I do have a 220 circuit I installed for my 3 hp 1023 grizzly cabinet saw.

The motor drives a single belt. It’s a great machine for the money. Had I realized i when I had money and motivation to spend it I should have purchased something to take larger blades for hardwoods and veneer work. But Murphy has taught me a lot over the years since this which was my first expensive purchase.

As Grizzly has increased the hp on the extreme to 1.5 hp I’m thinking it might have to do with load limits on 20 amp fuses or less? Anyway. your input is helping me think it through.

But as I have 220 single phase I could improve my existing saw?

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Robert's profile

Robert

3405 posts in 1876 days


#8 posted 08-22-2016 07:54 PM

I agree ^^ most bandsaws are underpowered for any kind of resaw work because the thickness of wood the blade is passing through requires power, pure and simple (if you want to have a decent feed rate, anyway).

My little Jet 12” has a 1/2 HP motor and it does OK but I would never even attempt to resaw on it.

However, the 18” 2HP does a great job.

Doc, if you come across a motor throw it on there and see what happens.

Otherwise, keep a good quality resaw blade on hand and tension it way up

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#9 posted 08-22-2016 08:02 PM

rwe2156,

We have a saying when someone has a great deal here on LJ’s. an 18 ” 2hp bandsaw? You suck! LOL!

Thanks for your thoughts.

I think I’ll give Grizzly support a call when I am considering changing motors as they might have an exact match and I can get some input from them in addition to what you folks are sharing.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Greg the Cajun Wood Artist's profile

Greg the Cajun Wood Artist

466 posts in 1338 days


#10 posted 08-22-2016 08:07 PM

I have a Powermatic 14” bandsaw and it came stock with a 1-1/2 hp motor. It will take up to a 3/4” blade and cuts great with the good blades and tuning

-- Wood for projects is like a good Fart..."better when you cut it yourself"

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#11 posted 08-22-2016 08:55 PM

Hey Lj’s,

I went to the source as I usually get great information from Grizzly tech guys.

FMI and FYI: Can’t upgrade my GO 555 with a matching but higher hp motor. The extreme version cast iron wheels are about 60 and 80 bucks apiece.

The guy said rewiring to 220 would decrease the amp draw but he wasn’t sure if it would be a big improvement.

He also mentioned the extreme has the same trunion (aluminum) as my saw.

SOOOOO I didn’t leap before I looked. Thanks for your input.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View BobAnderton's profile

BobAnderton

294 posts in 3186 days


#12 posted 08-23-2016 03:29 AM

Hey Tom, long time no talk. I found going to a wider kerf blade, specifically the green wood turner's blade sold by highland woodworking put an end to the bogging down I was experiencing on my previous 1 HP saw, especially when using it to mill small logs and such. One might think that one should use a thin kerf blade to put less load on the motor, but that neglects the impact of a too narrow kerf pushing on the side of the blade causing deflection (and/or closing kerf) inducing drag on the blade. For $25 or so it’s an inexpensive thing to evaluate for yourself.

Also, I’ve read that a given motor generates the same power whether running at, for example, 16 amps at 110V or 8 amps at 220v, which is consistent with what you’re saying.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#13 posted 08-23-2016 05:01 AM

Hey Bob,

I did send you an email w/picture of my shed project and asked about your dresser rehab. Maybe you didn’t get it?

Working on bringing my lawn tractor mower deck as well as the trans and belts since it went south all at once.

Then I get back to the shed.

What I used when tension release was toward the blade was ceder wedges I use in shimming door jambs.

Thanks for checking this out. Did you see my blog on Chainsaw mill madness?

http://lumberjocks.com/DocSavage45/blog/91354

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7836 posts in 3699 days


#14 posted 08-23-2016 09:57 AM

well tom im thinking that if you were to make a table that you can mount one of your chainsaws to, you could use it as a resaw machine, and if you were to have a power feed that ran at a high speed, it could run your veneers right through the chainsaw, i know my idea is on the genius side of thinking, but i wont ;charge for my idea, let me know when you use this idea and maybe we can partner up and go into full production….

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7836 posts in 3699 days


#15 posted 08-23-2016 10:06 AM



rwe2156,

We have a saying when someone has a great deal here on LJ s. an 18 ” 2hp bandsaw? You suck! LOL!

Thanks for your thoughts.

I think I ll give Grizzly support a call when I am considering changing motors as they might have an exact match and I can get some input from them in addition to what you folks are sharing.

- DocSavage45


wow, who would have thought to contact the guys at grizzly and ask them about going with a larger motor, LOL…i know tom, go ahead and smack me along side the head, i guess if my back is slowing me down to work the wood, i can go into woodworker stand up comedian….what do you think…lol

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7836 posts in 3699 days


#16 posted 08-23-2016 10:08 AM

and hey tom, i want a picture of your shed project…please

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View joey502's profile

joey502

546 posts in 1914 days


#17 posted 08-23-2016 12:00 PM

A finely tuned saw and super sharp blade are more of a factor than hp. Most cut issues can be corrected by a sharp blade with fewer teeth.

I prefer Starret blades 1/2” 3tpi. A blade shop welds them up for me for $11 each (minimum of 5 per order). I do not have drift issues, my cuts are not “barreled”. When the blade starts to get dull i throw it out.

Michael Fortune has also written a lot of good info on bandsaw setup. Check out his articles.

Lastly, do not tension the blade way up. Too much tension will flex the frame of the saw, especially with a riser block. Over tensioned blades will not compensate for set up issues or dull blades.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

4883 posts in 2908 days


#18 posted 08-23-2016 12:06 PM

Tom, I never use anything larger than a 1/2” with a 3tpi when cutting logs on my GO555P, same saw you have only mine is the polar series, but as mentioned same saw, reducing your blade size might help.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#19 posted 08-23-2016 06:13 PM

Bob da Grizzman,

Thanks for reading.

I’ll pass on the chainsaw mill to slice veneers. :<) RE Grizzly they were very helpful. I think its the same guy I’ve talked to before. I wanted to see if anyone here had done this before IMurphy and I did some damage. I learned a lot about the limitations of my saw doing this.

I will be posting a blog on the shed as it’s been a challenge. Money has limited me. Still does.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#20 posted 08-23-2016 06:24 PM

Randy,

Thanks for checking this out.

I have 1/2 inch blades. 5/8th blades. and as I mentioned Matthias Wendle did a great video on size and teeth. I’m wanting to do veneers with some of my interesting wood. Most folk cutting veneer are using wider blades. Any improvement can reduce error and the amount of time with Murphy. Like sharp blades. LOL!

The tech guy at Grizzly was of the opinion that steel wheels would act something like a flywheel. And the new extreme Go555 has the wheels and a bigger motor, so I thought maybe and upgrade? Turns out the motor size and mounting holes are different.

A bigger motor in my cabinet saw has made a difference from my old craftsman when working with hardwoods.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#21 posted 08-23-2016 06:26 PM

joey502,

Thanks for your suggestions.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2697 posts in 1618 days


#22 posted 08-23-2016 06:35 PM

with two bandsaws in the shop (14” and 16”), i get to compare the cutting ability directly. The smaller saw is equipped with a 1/4” blade (3/4 HP motor) and is used for everything but resawing. It will bog down with too high of a feed rate, but overall is quite satisfactory 95% of the time. The 16” (3.6 HP motor) is usually equipped with a 3/4” Woodslicer blade and does fine with a smooth feed rate and up to 12” in thickness cuts. It is when I resaw green logs with a 1-1/4” 3TPI blade that I detect the want for more HP.

The point of this is I’d be happy with 3/4-1 HP for everything except when I’m resawing wide boards. The extra $$$ involved in getting a machine to resaw wide stuff is steep, but I do like the ability.

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#23 posted 08-23-2016 06:47 PM

splintergroup,

I have a lot of logs to resaw on my bandsaw. I agree with you on the feed rate. I’m a little( a lot) impatient. LOL!

And I’d love to have a bigger saw with a bigger blade.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5501 posts in 3639 days


#24 posted 08-23-2016 07:04 PM

14” band saws are designed around a maximum blade width of 1/2”. To go any larger than 1/2” requires an increase in blade tension, which is not advisable. The wheel bearings are under high radial stress and increasing blade tension can cause premature bearing failure.

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#25 posted 08-23-2016 07:17 PM

MrRon,

Good point to remember!

Thanks

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2657 posts in 2530 days


#26 posted 08-24-2016 12:08 PM

Think with good sled and blade would have no problem cutting veneer on your saw. I am a big fan of Lenox carbon steel blades but if were cutting venneers would bit the bullet and pay little more for one of these blades. Not a big fan of bi-metal or carbide BS blades on a 14” saw.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php

Lot cheaper than new motor!

Good luck with it.

-- Bill

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#27 posted 08-24-2016 04:04 PM

Bill,

Have you done a comparison?

Thanks!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2657 posts in 2530 days


#28 posted 08-25-2016 04:31 PM

Yes shortly after getting my saw replaced OEM blade with Wood Slicer and could not believe the difference until blade gets dull. Never got around to ordering Timber Wolf blades with alternate set for green wood. So have no idea if wood slicer with alternate set any different than Timber Wolf’s positive claw raker or alternate set blades. Both companies well respected for their blades. You can check the reviews for both company’s blades on line also find some tip, tricks using them too.

Wood Slicer is thinner than Timber Wolf blades and they tell you not to cut wet wood with them but I did. If want to cut veneer on a budget have no problem recommending Wood Slicer blades.

For what I use my bandsaw for can get by with Lenox flex back 3 or 4 TPI hook blades to do what I need them to do.

See where Grizzly is selling carbide coated band saw blades now not sure how well they will cut on 14” saw. Always believed carbide & bi-metal were blades made for saw with larger than 16” or 18” wheels.

-- Bill

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#29 posted 08-25-2016 11:50 PM

bill,

Thanks for the follow up response!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7836 posts in 3699 days


#30 posted 08-28-2016 10:20 PM

have you thought of trying a chainsaw chain on the bandsaw, if you change the wheels and put sprockets on it, can you imagine what you could do…think it over doc.

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

8816 posts in 3238 days


#31 posted 08-29-2016 12:44 AM

Yes Grizz,

Too scary to continue to think about it. Murphy’s teaching me about lawn tractors this summer. A YouTuber that goes by the handle of Musty1 has helped to think things through and dust the rust off of me and the old metal.. LOL!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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