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View bbasiaga's profile

Need something for grinding...advice?

by bbasiaga
posted 08-12-2016 11:53 PM


18 replies so far

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1864 posts in 2676 days


#1 posted 08-13-2016 12:59 AM

A standard 6” 3600rpm grinder works fine if you put a very coarse, white aluminum oxide wheel on it (36-60 grit or so). The main thing to avoid is applying heavy pressure on the tool while grinding as that’s what causes the heat to build up and damage the tool.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

22748 posts in 3042 days


#2 posted 08-13-2016 01:38 AM

Maybe find one of these?

How fast it turns depends on how fast you crank.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Andre's profile

Andre

2570 posts in 2165 days


#3 posted 08-13-2016 02:25 AM

Yep Bandit that is the best setup, I put on a white cool stone from Lee Valley on mine with a 25 degree wood platform.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1976 posts in 2253 days


#4 posted 08-13-2016 03:40 AM

I’ve got the Rikon SS grinder, which I wish was slower. Won’t buy a replacement because it works just fine, but I have to pay attention to overheating the blade more than I thought I would. Maybe I was just an idiot with how I thought about it before I got it. Someone on LJ suggested I make sure to dress the wheel often, which I now do. I haven’t had to re-grind much yet after all this dressing to see if it cools things down just a little.

Regardless, some kind of grinder – whether it’s Bandit’s Fred Flintstone Special, or a fancy pants Tormek – is a very nice thing to have. Total PITA grinding a bevel on sandpaper by hand.

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2354 days


#5 posted 08-13-2016 01:48 PM

Thanks. Colonel Travis, i appreciate the feed back. One other thought I had was getting a cheaper grinder, and one of those variable speed devices from HF or Menards, but its lowest speed would still be higher than the Rikon slow speed grinder. So sounds like that is not the best set up either.

Bandit, how does one actually use that thing? Do you crank it up, and allow the momentum of the wheel to keep it spinning for a short time while you grind? Or do you somehow turn it and grind at the same time. I’m not sure I have the coordination for that!

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1687 posts in 2983 days


#6 posted 08-13-2016 02:35 PM

I never use a grinder on my tools. I hate the hollow grind. All of my tools are done by hand. It is more work but I love the look, feel and strength on the edge of the tools.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1976 posts in 2253 days


#7 posted 08-13-2016 04:03 PM

The Rikon grinder’s speed is 1750 RPM. A few years ago FWW reviewed about half a dozen grinders for woodworkers and their #1 choice was a variable speed Porter-Cable. The slowest speed on that P-C was 2000 RPM. All the others weren’t too far off from 1750, the lowest was 1720, which isn’t significantly different than the Rikon. The Rikon has been updated since that review, and I think the older version had some problems fixed by the newer one, which is the one I got. So if FWW assumes that RPM range is normal, then my expectations were clearly wrong at that price point. I didn’t want to spend any more on a grinder than I did.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

630 posts in 1107 days


#8 posted 08-13-2016 05:11 PM

I use a low speed grinder from Woodcraft. I think the speed is 1850. I dress the 120 grit white wheel with a diamond faced dressing tool. With a Veritas adjustable support, I grind edges on all my turning tools quite often and also grind edges on chisels and plane irons, though that doesn’t happen often.

The Veritas tool support is an excellent addition to your grinding setup, particularly for chisels and plane irons. If there is something better, I don’t know what that might be.

When grinding chisels and plane irons, keep a shallow bowl of water next to the grinder, so you can cool the edges and not burn them.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

22748 posts in 3042 days


#9 posted 08-13-2016 06:48 PM

You get the grinder moving, then a push every couple of turns to keep it going. IF you press too hard, it will stop. You can’t overheat things on one of these.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5430 posts in 3602 days


#10 posted 08-13-2016 06:55 PM

6” and 8” bench grinders are very inexpensive at HF and because of that, having at least 2 bench grinders in your shop is a great convenience. You can fit one grinder with wheels for roughing and the other for finish grinding. Final finish can then be done by hand. Belt sanders are also great for removing material quickly. If you go the bench grinder route, the first thing to do is get rid of the wheels that come with the grinder and replace them with good quality white, aluminum oxide wheels. Wheels also come in purple, blue, ruby and green. Their colors indicate good,better and best qualities and of course are more expensive.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5430 posts in 3602 days


#11 posted 08-13-2016 07:02 PM



Thanks. Colonel Travis, i appreciate the feed back. One other thought I had was getting a cheaper grinder, and one of those variable speed devices from HF or Menards,

Bench grinders have induction motors, so they can’t be controlled with a variable speed control; a universal (brushes) motor can.

View mike02130's profile

mike02130

170 posts in 1031 days


#12 posted 08-13-2016 07:10 PM

A 6 or 8” grinder with a white wheel is standard. I also have a 12 sharpening wheel in an oil bath that I picked up for 60 bucks. It’s geared a bit slow and some day I’ll redo the pulleys. The trick is to make light passes while moving your chisel from left to right.

If you don’t mind a flat bevel, a narrow belt sander (banjo?) Works pretty well. I picked one up very cheap. It’s a Delta with a 1/4 hp motor. It really is kind of a toy but it works well. I often use that and then go to the grinder if I want a hollow grind.

-- Google first, search forums second, ask questions later.

View Don W's profile

Don W

19160 posts in 2926 days


#13 posted 08-17-2016 01:03 AM

There is a lot of personal preference built into this decision. I use a grinder for so many different things. I’m not even sure how many I have.

If you’re just doing edge tools it’s hard to beat bandits suggestion.

I’ve got a grizzly slow speed with the larger wheel and water bath. It’s way to slow for me. I seldom use it and should sell it.

All of my restores gets done with a regular 8” benchtop grinder with a 150 grit white stone. My next stone purchase will be courser. I think hollow grinding is the only way to go.

I’ve never used a tormek. They probably do the job well, but always figured it was way to much money for a one trick pony. If I find one for $50 I’ll see what the fuss is about.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2354 days


#14 posted 08-17-2016 02:51 AM

Don, the tormek is just like the grizzly. You won’t like it. I’ll give you $50 for you grizzly though!

I just traded my brother a buffer I wasn’t using for a regular high speed grinder he wasnt using. So I’ll give that a go for a bit.

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1864 posts in 2676 days


#15 posted 08-17-2016 05:19 AM

One useful trick is to keep a thumb on the back of the blade near the bevel while grinding. Steel can handle much more heat than flesh so if your finger isn’t burning, the tool is almost sure to be fine. If it gets uncomfortable to hold the tool, it’s time to remove it and cool it with water.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View Robert's profile

Robert

3367 posts in 1839 days


#16 posted 08-17-2016 12:02 PM

Brian,

I do 95% of my sharpening by hand, so I spending $100’s on sharpening machines like a Tormek is not on my radar.

Coming from that perspective, I bought a Craftsman variable speed grinder on sale a few years ago. I admit it not the best (lousy tool rests like all of them) but it has served me well for the little bit of grinding I do. I also considered the Rikon.

In the end, I really don’t think the slow speed matters that much. A slow speed grinder won’t save you from the heat if using a finer wheel. As a result, I do most of my grinding with an 80 grit you just have to be more careful.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2239 posts in 2348 days


#17 posted 08-17-2016 12:12 PM

I have the Grizzly wet grinder. It does ok on thin Stanley oem type plane blades, but very slow for thicker irons, and forever slow with A2 or PM-V11 steel. Works great for resharpening turning tools, but I use a cheap 6” grinder to rough in a new shape for turning tools. Use the 6” grinder for plane blade bevels as well. Be carefull as the edge of the steel gets thin – it will burn before your fingers get hot. light pressure and cool after each pass with a thin edge.

View UncannyValleyWoods's profile

UncannyValleyWoods

542 posts in 2223 days


#18 posted 08-17-2016 01:12 PM

You guys are absolutely no fun at all and your general lack of humor is going to send you all to an early grave. Thanks for deleting my post.

-- “If Jesus had been killed twenty years ago, Catholic school children would be wearing little electric chairs around their necks instead of crosses.” ― Lenny Bruce

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