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View Woodster73's profile

Ridgid R4513 table saw zero clearance or dado insert

by Woodster73
posted 08-10-2016 12:11 PM


21 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

2171 posts in 3162 days


#1 posted 08-10-2016 12:30 PM

Get some 1/4” mdf or plywood and make ZCIs. Just don’t use your fence when cutting the blade slot in the ZCI.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Jon Hobbs's profile

Jon Hobbs

147 posts in 1238 days


#2 posted 08-10-2016 09:03 PM

Maybe this would fit?

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/153117/ridgid-r4512-table-saw-zeroclearance-blade-insert.aspx

They also have a dado blank:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/153118/ridgid-r4512-table-saw-zeroclearance-dado-insert.aspx

I used to own the 4510 followed by the 3650. I used Woodcraft ZCI blanks back then. Worked very well.

  • I have no affiliation with Woodcraft other than being a satisfied customer.

-- Jon -- Just a Minnesota kid hanging out in Kansas

View Woodster73's profile

Woodster73

21 posts in 1609 days


#3 posted 08-10-2016 09:08 PM

Jon,

Unfortunately those inserts for the previous Ridgid saw won’t work, as Ridgid changed the shape of the insert to a rectangular one, so most of the current aftermarket including for the other Ridgid saws won’t fit.

View Woodster73's profile

Woodster73

21 posts in 1609 days


#4 posted 08-10-2016 09:09 PM

Actually I did find that Ridgid sells a dado insert, but not a zero clearance one.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5974 posts in 2943 days


#5 posted 08-11-2016 03:32 PM

Make a few. Once you have a template making more is a breeze. Matthias Wadel on youtube has a great video as well as others.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Jon Hobbs's profile

Jon Hobbs

147 posts in 1238 days


#6 posted 08-11-2016 04:27 PM


Jon,

Unfortunately those inserts for the previous Ridgid saw won t work, as Ridgid changed the shape of the insert to a rectangular one, so most of the current aftermarket including for the other Ridgid saws won t fit.

- Woodster73

Boo to Ridgid!

-- Jon -- Just a Minnesota kid hanging out in Kansas

View ErichK's profile

ErichK

89 posts in 1197 days


#7 posted 08-11-2016 04:37 PM

Having to make it that thin out of wood (1/8”!) would scare me a bit, I’d be afraid that even 1/8” plywood or MDF wouldn’t hold up.

Take a look at common plastics when making it. Things like HDPE end up working great for something like that! The best part with HDPE is that you can just buy a cheap cutting board and use that, ends up being much cheaper (HF has a 2 pack for like $10!).

View maxwellllll's profile

maxwellllll

17 posts in 1089 days


#8 posted 01-09-2017 04:45 PM

Just curious what you ended up doing for this. I’m in the same boat with the R4513, and wondering if you have found an elegant solution for a ZCI for it.

View pitttrack's profile

pitttrack

10 posts in 1035 days


#9 posted 01-11-2017 03:29 AM

why not make one with a tracing router bit on the router table? I used that for another brand of saw and with some work they came out nice. I used corian scarps that I had laying around.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

3080 posts in 2559 days


#10 posted 01-11-2017 05:15 AM

I find it annoying that several manufacturers of low and even medium ranked saws can’t make a decent throat insert. They seem to have a pact, that if one has a crap design they all must have a crap design. There simply is no excuse for that “feature,” except that somebody is too lazy or ignorant to do it right.

Woodcraft has the right idea, to make a thick insert with divots for the support tabs. If you should try to make your own, phenolic is an excellent material. The trouble with HDPE is that it is a little too flexible. Good quality plywood (i.e. with lots of laminations) would also work well.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Woodster73's profile

Woodster73

21 posts in 1609 days


#11 posted 01-11-2017 02:04 PM

Hey maxwell, I didnt make one yet, I spent most of the holiday season working on christmas gifts that involved a bunch of handwork so really didn’t use the tablesaw much. I think I might start by trying runswithscissors’ idea of a thicker material with recessed cutouts for the tabs, etc. I need to sit down with the current insert and a piece of drafting paper and brainstorm…

View maxwellllll's profile

maxwellllll

17 posts in 1089 days


#12 posted 01-11-2017 06:47 PM

Gotcha. Well, please let me know what ends up working for you. I may end up futzing around a bit over the weekend to see what I can come up with using some scrap plywood or MDF. Since I’m still quite early on in my tool acquisition process, I don’t yet have a router, so I may end up trying to just rough something out with a bandsaw (or maybe even the TS itself) and then going from there.

View TomKelly's profile

TomKelly

6 posts in 1145 days


#13 posted 01-15-2017 04:40 PM

I have a r4513 and i use blue tape on top, or a piece of thin rollup cutting board on the bottom stuck on with double sided tape.

-- Tom Kelly *** Count your fingers before and after each cut ! Just to see if you have to scrabble around in the sawdust.

View PJKS's profile

PJKS

62 posts in 1056 days


#14 posted 01-15-2017 04:48 PM

You can fill your current insert with epoxy .. Wax paper and a flat caul to trap it …

-- Pat / Colorado

View cdsearcy's profile

cdsearcy

1 post in 1255 days


#15 posted 01-19-2017 12:22 AM

I’m so glad I’m not the only one having this issue! I’m going to try making a thicker insert and cutting out divots where the the screw holes are.

View Darrell70's profile

Darrell70

1 post in 1027 days


#16 posted 01-19-2017 01:57 AM

I am new here—new to woodworking also. I have the Ridgid R4513 saw also, and found this dado throat plate:
Ridgid OEM 089290001183 at a couple of places. You might give it a look.

Darrell/Texas

View maxwellllll's profile

maxwellllll

17 posts in 1089 days


#17 posted 01-19-2017 02:49 PM



I m so glad I m not the only one having this issue! I m going to try making a thicker insert and cutting out divots where the the screw holes are.

- cdsearcy

That’s kind of what I was thinking…

View maxwellllll's profile

maxwellllll

17 posts in 1089 days


#18 posted 01-19-2017 02:52 PM



I am new here—new to woodworking also. I have the Ridgid R4513 saw also, and found this dado throat plate:
Ridgid OEM 089290001183 at a couple of places. You might give it a look.

You know…now that I think about it, wouldn’t it be easy just to get this OEM dado plate and create an insert to completely fill the opening…? It would be really cool if one could devise a way to make multiple inserts to affix into to the dado throat plate for various blade angles, but I’m not sure if I’m clever enough to devise a way to attach such an insert that would hold securely but also be removable…

View Lt_scout's profile

Lt_scout

37 posts in 1105 days


#19 posted 01-19-2017 02:58 PM

I have the same saw and discovered the same thing. I bought the dado insert but it isnt zero clearance and you cant make inserts for this saw.

It makes no sense to people here who haven’t seen how Ridgid makes their inserts but making them would be extremely time consuming an so delicate that I haven’t figured how.

One of the reasons I have decided to upgrade from this Job Site saw to a Hybrid

-- When you know you can do more with less, you will require less to do more.

View HouseAtreides's profile

HouseAtreides

2 posts in 1120 days


#20 posted 02-22-2017 08:30 PM

Hey there… this is my first post, so please forgive any noob behavior.

I have at the Ridgid 4512 and and am keen on a zero clearance insert as well. I’ve seen the after market one mentioned above and may give it a try, but I’ve been thinking about this: How bad of an idea would it be to modify the existing metal throat plate to accept a strip of say 1/4 inch MDF underneath that’s been rabbeted to fit flush with the surface? It would be a simple task of drilling and countering 4 or 6 holes in the metal plate. Nylon hardware could be used to attach the MDF strip. The insert-inserts (if you will) would be much easier to mill than a complete stand-alone insert. Thoughts?

Here’s a quick sketch:

View HouseAtreides's profile

HouseAtreides

2 posts in 1120 days


#21 posted 02-22-2017 08:51 PM

Holy cow… just read more thoroughly above and see that the same idea came up just a few posts earlier… like I said – noob behavior. A simple tenoning jig would make these a breeze to mass produce.

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