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View RichGreer2r's profile

Viscosity of epoxy glue

by RichGreer2r
posted 08-06-2016 01:10 PM

9 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile


3107 posts in 2557 days

#1 posted 08-06-2016 01:19 PM

There is not a lot of difference in viscosity between epoxies. You will need to use an epoxy with a long (ie 24hr) cure time to allow it time to flow into the wormholes. You may have problems with air bubbles unless you have a way for the air to escape ( a small hole drilled into the wormhole near its end. I use fishing rod thread finish epoxy when filling small hole and crack in my projects. It flow very well. Two brands are Flexcoat and Threadmaster, the lite versions may flow a little better than the standard. search for rod finishing supplies.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View RichGreer2r's profile


48 posts in 1203 days

#2 posted 08-06-2016 01:56 PM

Bruce – That is very helpful. Thank you.

-- Rich in Cedar Rapids, IA

View rtbrmb's profile


718 posts in 2773 days

#3 posted 08-06-2016 01:59 PM

Last year I started to use Inlace products to add some color to my projects. When mixed and hardener added (& no color) it’s a viscous as water-I found out the hard way that it will find every open grain and get into it. I have never had any issues with air bubbles from this product.

Bill in MI

View Tony_S's profile


970 posts in 3467 days

#4 posted 08-06-2016 03:12 PM

I’ve thinned West systems epoxy with lacquer thinner to stabilize punky wood before…worked well. Not sure how well it works with other brands, it probably does though(test).

I tried it with Devcon 5 minute epoxy as well…..Don’t….unless you want a sticky ball of snot that never cures.

-- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle

View marshallmosby56's profile


18 posts in 1064 days

#5 posted 08-06-2016 06:05 PM

Apollo H7 is best suited for the job. It has medium to high viscosity plus it adheres to a variety of inactive materials suck as wood.

-- :)

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


7383 posts in 2583 days

#6 posted 08-06-2016 07:26 PM

Any straight epoxy should be fine and flow into all the little nooks and crannies – probably more than you would want, as it can sometimes be a chore trying to keep it contained. If will find any pinhole and flow out of it unexpectedly if not sealed well. Stay away from epoxies that are marketed as glues, as they typically have fillers included to reduce flow (such as most of the 5min syringe type epoxies found at the big box stores). I’ll throw in my support for West Systems, but any of the other well known brands should be similar.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2704 posts in 3306 days

#7 posted 08-06-2016 07:36 PM

I use “Zpoxy” Finishing resin for this. I get it at my local hobby shop. It is so thin that I have to apply masking tape to the underside of knots with cracks I am trying to fill, to keep it from flowing out of the wood.

-- No PHD just a DD214

View George Coles's profile

George Coles

184 posts in 2829 days

#8 posted 08-08-2016 12:29 AM

Hi Jim. I use a an Australian brand now. Megapoxy but you probably will not get it there. I have also used West systems and found that very good. It will give strength as well as filling. Masking tape is essential to use. I find it best to fill before shaping the wood because it is much harder and more time consuming to fill a rounded piece of timber.

-- George Coles,

View marshallmosby56's profile


18 posts in 1064 days

#9 posted 09-04-2016 07:52 AM

I am sure you’re looking for a potting or encapsulating epoxy having lowest viscosity. You can check for the same but keep in mind the surface you’re using it on. There are also non-corrosive, elastic, and even biocompatible epoxies available that are even optically clear and transparent. Some are used for electrical insulation and again there are some that allow exothermic behaviours. So you must be specific about what purpose you are using it for.

-- :)

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