All Replies on Making a push block

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View Spitfire1's profile

Making a push block

by Spitfire1
posted 08-03-2016 04:01 AM

11 replies so far

View Kirk650's profile


680 posts in 1632 days

#1 posted 08-03-2016 04:07 AM

I cut similar push blocks from scrap pieces of 2X12 pine. I just do them rather rough, using the band saw and smooth the edges with a sander. No need to be fancy. If you don’t have a hand saw or a bandsaw, you can buy either one or drive down to Texas and I’ll give you a couple of extras I have.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

7016 posts in 4078 days

#2 posted 08-03-2016 04:41 AM

Just go ahead and cut out the push block, cut the bottom straight across, and then make a little “foot” or “heel” (as some call it), and glue it on….The push block needs to be at least a 1/2” to 3/4” thick for it to work….1/4” would be too thin….Easy peesy…nice and easy..!!

-- " There's a better way.....find it"...... Thomas Edison.

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


8241 posts in 3082 days

#3 posted 08-03-2016 06:25 AM

You could cut the notch on the table saw if you are careful (think miter gauge or crosscut sled). But – how are you going to get the curved top? Hopefully, it’s not going to be sanded to shape from a rectangle! Whatever you use to cut the top curved area could be used to cut the notch as well. And before you settle on that design, you might want to check this video out:

The Best Push Stick!
(thanks to Izzy Swan)


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View ScottM's profile


748 posts in 3030 days

#4 posted 08-03-2016 12:15 PM

... And before you settle on that design, you might want to check this video out:

The Best Push Stick!
(thanks to Izzy Swan)


- MrUnix

I’ve tried both designs and prefer the OP’s as well. Something about the hand position just feels better to me. Just a preference. As for cutting the notch, I think those are covered; handsaw, table saw, jig saw, etc.

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 3330 days

#5 posted 08-03-2016 01:44 PM

The naked lady push stick will eventually come up but I always liked the original design the best :

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View muleskinner's profile


941 posts in 3320 days

#6 posted 08-03-2016 02:03 PM

I’m with MrUnix. The humpback version looks awkward to me and doesn’t seem like it would afford as good a grip as this version.

And the notch? Get a a handsaw for heavens sake. That’s like a mechanic not having a screwdriver.

-- Visualize whirled peas

View Dan P's profile

Dan P

755 posts in 2775 days

#7 posted 08-03-2016 02:20 PM

-- Daniel P

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 2993 days

#8 posted 08-03-2016 02:35 PM

I don’t even round the hump, mine are simply MDF rectangles with a roundover run along the top edges. Sometimes, I’m too lazy to cut the roundover… ;^)

Why do I do this? They’re consumables… As the “peg” gets eaten, cut down for tnin stock, or the bottom gets too grooved, I simply rip it off (using the parallel edge I’m too lazy to shape) and cut a new notch. When they get too thin and no longer keep my hand far enough from the blade, they’re trash.

With a long gripping area along the top, the user can also vary the grip depending on the operation. Sometimes, small and narrow parts are better with the grip centered.

View MT_Stringer's profile


3183 posts in 4114 days

#9 posted 08-03-2016 02:40 PM

When I bought my Grizzly 1023 table saw, the manual had the plan for one in the back. You could always download the manual and check it out.

I made my push stick out of two pieces of 3/4 plywood. It is a sacrificial push stick. I don’t mind pushing it over the blade when it protrudes above the material a little. I can always make another one. Works good for ripping narrow pieces from the wider stuff because the stick will push both pieces through and past the blade. Never any problems.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View BurlyBob's profile


7946 posts in 3149 days

#10 posted 08-03-2016 03:05 PM

You’ve got a project that requires a tool you don’t have. Sounds like a good excuse to spend some money. Who knows you might find 2 or 3 other tools you could use down the road.

View Robert's profile


4051 posts in 2364 days

#11 posted 08-03-2016 04:07 PM

I just use a piece of 2×4 or 2×6.
You can screw a cleat on the rear (I usually use hardwood & be sure screw won’t hit blade!)

As they get chewed up, I take the cleat off, re-rip the bottom, and put on a new cleat.
A 2×6 will last forever.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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