LumberJocks

All Replies on Another "Help me pick a (very modestly priced) table saw" thread

  • Advertise with us
View avsmusic1's profile

Another "Help me pick a (very modestly priced) table saw" thread

by avsmusic1
posted 07-31-2016 06:32 PM


24 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

5371 posts in 2714 days


#1 posted 07-31-2016 07:01 PM

Get an old Craftsman 113. , they everywhere on CL for $150 or less. Then plan on upgrading the rip fence. That is about the biggest bang for the buck on table saws.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Eugd's profile

Eugd

65 posts in 1474 days


#2 posted 07-31-2016 07:11 PM

I have the ridgid and do it again I would go with the delta, because of the fence and tracks, the tracks are 2 peices and tend to bow upwards over time cause fence miss aliment, compared to the delta which has one peice rails and a better fence, I’m used to it and easy to adjust, but very frustrating

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

359 posts in 1744 days


#3 posted 07-31-2016 07:32 PM

I have a Craftsman 113 I bought many years ago. I upgraded the fence to a Delta, got a nice Feud Premier Fusion blade and a zero clearance insert. It is very usable. It would be nice to have more power and better dust collection but can’t afford it. If I was to upgrade would look at the Grizzly Hybrid.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View crank49's profile

crank49

4032 posts in 3334 days


#4 posted 08-01-2016 02:43 AM

The Ridgid is a crap shoot whether you get one with the deflecting allignmnt defect. Mine has it and it is not correctable without spending as much as the original saw cost. Also, Ridgid has never, and most likely will never, admit there is a defect so they won’t fix it without you sending it to a repair station. Shipping an assembled saw without further damage and cost is another story. I can’t UN-RECOMMEND Ridgid R4512 strongly enough.

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

397 posts in 1048 days


#5 posted 08-01-2016 11:31 AM

Thanks for the thoughts so far guys. I hadn’t considered an older craftsman but I’ll certainly look closer at that option.

I’m a little surprised there hasn’t been any votes for the unisaw yet, but I had heard about the issues w/ the rigid. It was my understanding that that issue doesn’t develop though, right? In other words, I could check a new saw and if it wasn’t there id be good to go.

View Robert's profile

Robert

3371 posts in 1844 days


#6 posted 08-01-2016 11:58 AM

Hate to contradict, but I started out with a 70’s era C’man TS and didn’t know how inferior, no HORRIBLE the fence was until I almost cut a finger off. And how terribly underpowered they are.

So – you guessed it – I do NOT recommend those dime a dozen $100 C’man saws all over CL. They’re better than nothing, but just a little ;-) They certainly aren’t worth spending more $$ than you paid for the saw upgrading the fence and getting a bigger motor.

Of course there are some home made fences that might work fairly well…..and you may have a motor laying around you could use…..

.....or there are some new saws that will work much better (no recommendations other than you can’t beat the old Unisaws—if you can find one at a reasonable price. Most of the ones around me are in the $1K range.

Even if you’re just making little things now, you never know where ww’ing is going to take you. With this thought in mind, I would take a close look at 2HP Grizzly hybrid if it fits your budget.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Woodbum's profile

Woodbum

871 posts in 3428 days


#7 posted 08-01-2016 12:03 PM

Another vote for a Craftsman 113 model. I had one with an all cast iron top that worked for me for 25 years. Some upgrades such as a decent blade, miter gauge and maybe a fence, but the stock fence will work with some adjustment for a start. This a lot of saw for the small amount that you will pay. Later, when you are better established; you can look for a replacement since you will have some experience and know what features you want/need. Good luck, have fun and work safely.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

397 posts in 1048 days


#8 posted 08-01-2016 01:11 PM

http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/5707616739.html
I’m going to go check this out today

The craftsman options in my area right now are looking BEAT but there are a couple 110 unisaw options <600

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

397 posts in 1048 days


#9 posted 08-01-2016 01:13 PM

Also saw this in my area

http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/5703215440.html

Thoughts? Worth checking out?

View onoitsmatt's profile

onoitsmatt

428 posts in 1539 days


#10 posted 08-01-2016 02:41 PM

Unisaw looks awesome. But I’d be leary of any saw that’s been used to cut sheetrock per the walker turner ad.

-- Matt - Phoenix, AZ

View mrg's profile

mrg

860 posts in 3362 days


#11 posted 08-01-2016 03:29 PM

Both saws look good. The uni make sure they have the rails for the fence.

Matt you misread the listing on the walker turner it say sheet stock.

-- mrg

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2205 posts in 2161 days


#12 posted 08-01-2016 03:30 PM

I’d be all over that Walker turner saw.It looks great.I don’t see it mentioned in the ad that it was used to cut sheet rock.Or dry wall .
The unisaw looks good also but needs some work.Dont be put off about working on your machines at least it was made to be serviced.

Aj

-- Aj

View JayT's profile

JayT

6161 posts in 2574 days


#13 posted 08-01-2016 03:33 PM

If they’ve got the rails the Delta could be a great saw.


Also saw this in my area

http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/5703215440.html

Thoughts? Worth checking out?

- avsmusic1

It could be a great saw and if you had 220 available, I’d say jump on it, but since you don’t have power in the shop on a full time basis, I’d skip any saw that runs on 220. Running a 110 extension cord is doable, especially if you get a 10ga one, but 220 is another matter.

-- In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View onoitsmatt's profile

onoitsmatt

428 posts in 1539 days


#14 posted 08-01-2016 03:45 PM

Oops. Sorry, sheet stock is good, sheet rock would be bad. But as others mentioned the 220v thing would be an issue.

-- Matt - Phoenix, AZ

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2205 posts in 2161 days


#15 posted 08-01-2016 06:30 PM

I thought 220 is no longer available. 240 is what’s at my service panel.It does vary from 237 to 239 thanks to Sce.
Is there really 110×2 = 220 at your guys shop?

-- Aj

View JayT's profile

JayT

6161 posts in 2574 days


#16 posted 08-01-2016 06:42 PM

The voltage hasn’t really changed, just the terminology. My understanding is that the power company is supposed to supply 240v minus an allowable power drop, usually 5-10%. The motors on many pieces of equipment list the rating as 230v. Whether it’s called 220, 230 or 240, if it’s single phase, it’s the same service type. I still call it 220 out of habit from working for an old school electrician in high school.

-- In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7361 posts in 2562 days


#17 posted 08-01-2016 06:52 PM

I’m a little surprised there hasn t been any votes for the unisaw yet
- avsmusic1

Ok… I’ll vote for the Uni… or a PM66, or that W/T, or PM72, or a Delta 12/14… the problem is your lack of 240vac. While the older Unisaws did ship with 1 and 1.5hp bullet motors capable of running on 120vac, unless they have been restored, they are a bit more difficult to work on for the average home hobbyist and require some special attention to keep running well.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

397 posts in 1048 days


#18 posted 08-01-2016 06:52 PM

Thanks guys. This is all very helpful

The unisaw was quite nice (based on my admittedly novice opinion). The fence is actually a 52” rip model that was cut down b/c it was taking up too much space in the workshop lol. That’s more than fine with me b/c I don’t have space for the 52” but am interested in something that would go out to 3’. Belts looked to be in good shape. He ran it and I detected no notable bearing noise, and he has in a couple newer inserts and an HTC all metal mobile base.

Any reason I shouldn’t pounce on this?

View JayT's profile

JayT

6161 posts in 2574 days


#19 posted 08-01-2016 06:56 PM

If it’s in your budget and everything checks out to your satisfaction, go for it. The only hesitation on my part would be the price, but it’s a much better saw and fence than any new offering in the same price range. Did you get a feel for whether you could offer less or if the seller was firm on the price?

-- In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7361 posts in 2562 days


#20 posted 08-01-2016 06:59 PM

That Unisaw is priced a bit high IMO, but it’s a nice saw. Plan on replacing belts and bearings regardless… an extra $100 at most. Once you open up the motor, you can determine the condition of the commutator, brushes and shorting necklace – all of which may need some attention. I wouldn’t consider it plug-n-play right off the bat, but it certainly is an ideal restoration candidate as long as all the pieces are there. Would clean up really nice and the cast iron plinth is a bonus.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

397 posts in 1048 days


#21 posted 08-01-2016 07:25 PM

I felt him out a bit. He’s pretty firm on the price and had no qualms letting me leave. As you may have seen from the posting, I’m in CT. I’ve been hunting around on CL for the few wks to get a feel for the market and he’s smack in the middle of what I’ve seen. The range I’ve seen w/in an hr of my house is $450 to $800. I went and looked at the $450 saw and it was in rougher shape, had the original fence, and I couldn’t see it run. That seller was also kind of a jerk (for whatever that’s worth). I didn’t even bother going to see the pricier options

While it’s not a deal, he may not be priced wrong for my area. Hard to say for sure though. I suppose it’s only been a few wks. What would you guys expect to see this priced at in your areas?

I will say this though, after building my recent project with a flimsy dewalt contract saw fence, that biesemeyer is very appealing

View JayT's profile

JayT

6161 posts in 2574 days


#22 posted 08-01-2016 07:32 PM

In my head, it’s a 400-500 saw, but as you said, markets vary. If you can wait and look for a few months, you might find a better deal, but then you are investing more time and effort into the search and are without a more capable saw for that time. If you want something now, then you have to pick from what’s available now.

Only you can decide what it’s worth to you. If you and the seller both feel like it’s a fair deal, then it’s a fair deal, regardless of what a bunch of faceless posters on an internet forum say. :-)

-- In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

397 posts in 1048 days


#23 posted 08-04-2016 01:13 PM

Well…. I’ve slept on it a bit, looked around more, went to see a garbage condition used delta, and I think I’m going to take the plunge on this one unless someone talks me out of it in the next day or so

Thanks again gents

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

3469 posts in 2220 days


#24 posted 08-06-2016 10:51 PM

A craftsman zipcode saw with a biesemyer fence. I like mine a lot and they can be found at decent prices.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com