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All Replies on Closing gaps in ceiling panels (insulating the workshop)

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View Ian S's profile

Closing gaps in ceiling panels (insulating the workshop)

by Ian S
posted 07-27-2016 06:29 PM


14 replies so far

View clin's profile

clin

1035 posts in 1390 days


#1 posted 07-27-2016 07:08 PM

Cheap, easy (fast), and look good (quality). As they say, you can pick two of these.

Foam in a can sounds like a good approach. After trimming the foam, I’d just paint it and call it done. If you mud over it, it will just crack without any tape. If you go to tape it, it won’t look that good without doing most of the work you’d do doing a full drywall application. Then heck, you might as well do it right and put up wall board. But I think that’s going too far for a workshop/shed.

-- Clin

View splatman's profile

splatman

586 posts in 1793 days


#2 posted 07-28-2016 12:30 AM

Cut pieces of wood or MDF to fill the gaps. Glue them in. Sand flush if needed. Prime and paint away.

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1368 posts in 1314 days


#3 posted 07-28-2016 02:02 AM

Ian S,

If you elect to patch the gaps with joint compound, by using fiberglass drywall tape and mudding closed the gaps first and then filling the gaps with spray foam could save the step of trimming the excess spray foam. I would think fiberglass joint tape would work better in preventing future cracking than drywall paper tape. In any event, taping the gaps before applying joint compound would likely reducing future cracking.

It is difficult to know from your post or your blog whether these ideas make any sense. There may be too many corners to make these ideas workable. Both ideas would make painting a little more difficult. I assume the gaps are around the perimeter of the building. The first idea is to apply trim to the ceiling in such a way as to cover up the gaps. The trim could be 2” wide flat strips of MDF tacked to the ceiling. The second idea is to use 2×4 lumber applied to the walls tight against the ceiling. In both cases the trim would run all the way around the perimeter of the building for a uniform look.

View Robert's profile

Robert

3405 posts in 1875 days


#4 posted 07-28-2016 12:09 PM

I would just use lathing strips.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7741 posts in 2401 days


#5 posted 07-28-2016 12:12 PM

You’re talking about the gaps in this photo, right?
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If yes, then I agree with clin above. I’d just use the expand-o-foam and shave it flat, then paint. Sure you could re-do all the “trusses” and make a flat ceiling, but you would lose a bit of headroom. Plus that little bit of peak inside will help dissipate the heat. After all, It’s not the Trump plaza, it’s a shed.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

6232 posts in 2660 days


#6 posted 07-28-2016 03:38 PM

I’ve found that expand foam a bit runny till it set up. You might have to hold it in those cracks with masking tape. I tried using that stuff to fill a couple of shot up duck decoys. My best advice, wear rubber gloves. That stuff is a bear to get off you hands.

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

16130 posts in 3013 days


#7 posted 07-28-2016 05:27 PM

Strips is my vote. Foam = way too much aggravation w/ little benefit and when shaved isn’t a smooth finish.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View cebfish's profile

cebfish

160 posts in 3082 days


#8 posted 07-28-2016 07:23 PM

what rwe2156 said

View Ian S's profile

Ian S

33 posts in 1091 days


#9 posted 07-28-2016 07:59 PM

Hi all,
Thanks for all the great suggestions! To clarify, yes this is the ceiling we’re talking about. Here’s me last weekend, enjoying the completion of 8 hours of work:
finished project

These gaps are fairly small, but also uneven. This means putting in strips of wood might be impractical. I’ve never done anything with strips per se (aside from shimming) but it seems like it would be tough to get e.g. strips of lath to taper down from, say, 0.75” on one end to 0.5” on the other end. Making sense and sound right? Agreed, it doesn’t need to be Trump tower, but if I close the gaps at all, I’m hoping to create something that will hold paint well and sort of look like a finished surface, at least if you squint at it.

Maybe I’m wasting my energy here, that’s also a valid answer :-)

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

16130 posts in 3013 days


#10 posted 07-28-2016 08:19 PM

Not to fill in the cracks, but to ride over top of them, as in battens.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View splatman's profile

splatman

586 posts in 1793 days


#11 posted 07-28-2016 09:01 PM

Looking at the pic, I see what the issue is. I was presuming the gaps were even from end to end. Wedge-shaped gaps are a bit of a hassle to plug with strips. Smitty has the idea I would apply: battens. Rip a 2×4 into strips ~3/8” thick and tack them over the gaps. Be creative and paint the ceiling first, and the strips a diff color before putting them up. Think of this as an opportunity to build your skills. If you mess up, no big deal; it’s just a workshop, not Trump Tower Austin.

View Ian S's profile

Ian S

33 posts in 1091 days


#12 posted 07-29-2016 11:32 AM

Ah now I get it. “Battens” here means using those strips the same way you use baseboard or crown molding to cover gaps in drywall. Great idea. I think I can run with that.

View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

1000 posts in 3370 days


#13 posted 07-29-2016 12:25 PM

I did something similar in my shop. Before putting up battens, I put a strip of the butyl rubber, adhesive backed flashing over the gap to help block air drafts. I ripped battens from a sheet of 1/4 Luan and staple in place with narrow crown stapler.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 2343 days


#14 posted 07-29-2016 09:47 PM

painters caulk and a flexible putty knife. caulk it, smooth it with the knife and let it dry. then paint

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