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All Replies on 10" Table saw blade with flat top

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View Dee1's profile

10" Table saw blade with flat top

by Dee1
posted 07-27-2016 02:51 PM


17 replies so far

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1801 posts in 3223 days


#1 posted 07-27-2016 03:01 PM

I like this blade by Kempston.

It is true FTG grind which produces a flat bottom cut.

And it’s only $33 from Amazon Prime.

Good Luck!

Be Careful.

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View Dutchy's profile

Dutchy

3362 posts in 2532 days


#2 posted 07-27-2016 03:01 PM

A rip cut saw blade should be flat.

-- https://dutchypatterns.com/

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2639 posts in 1586 days


#3 posted 07-27-2016 03:15 PM

I have a Freud rip blade that was part of a three blade set. Nice 1/8” wide flat bottom grooves.

For excellent dead-flat bottom grooves also look to some of the ‘box joint’ blade sets (I also have the Freud brand).
The usually are set to make either 3/8” wide of 1/4” wide cuts when the blades are used in pairs. Singly they are about 3/16”, but I have never measured to confirm.

View joey502's profile

joey502

545 posts in 1881 days


#4 posted 07-27-2016 03:16 PM

I have a freud industrial 24 tooth rip blade that leaves a flat bottom cut. I think it was about $40 – 45

View xeddog's profile

xeddog

230 posts in 3371 days


#5 posted 07-27-2016 04:07 PM

I have a Forrest WW2 with their #1 grind. I would have to go get it, but if I remember correctly it is essentially a TCG grind with the tops all leveled out and flattened. It cuts cleanly and leaves a flat bottomed kerf.

Wayne

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

7081 posts in 2962 days


#6 posted 07-27-2016 04:17 PM

I have a Freud 24 Tooth FTG Rip blade that produces flat bottoms, and I also have the Forrest WWII 40 Tooth with the special “flat” grind. While it is pretty flat, mine is not perfectly flat like the rip blade produces.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5507 posts in 2857 days


#7 posted 07-27-2016 04:32 PM

It’s my understanding that Forrest can/will grind one for you that way, but it’s special order. No idea what that might cost, but I have one on my “dream” list.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

637 posts in 1265 days


#8 posted 07-27-2016 07:08 PM

freud all the wall

View Scott C.'s profile

Scott C.

160 posts in 2414 days


#9 posted 07-27-2016 11:15 PM

I was recently looking for a FTG 10” blade. After a lot of searching, I found the Freud LU87R010 was the least expensive, true FTG I could find. Not all ripping blades are FTG, especially the cheaper ones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-- measure twice, cut once, swear and start over.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8278 posts in 3739 days


#10 posted 07-28-2016 09:44 AM

Any of the flat top grind (FTG) blades should be fine. Infinity 010-024/124, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Freud Industrial LU87/LM72, CMT Industrial 201.024.10/202.024.10, Amana Tool RB1020, Delta Industrial and DeWalt Precision Trim all have them in a rip blade configuration – range is 18T to 24T.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Robert's profile

Robert

3374 posts in 1844 days


#11 posted 07-28-2016 12:06 PM

Freud industrial (the chrome one) best rip blade I’ve used. LM74M010

or

CMT 24 tooth

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View RandyinFlorida's profile

RandyinFlorida

257 posts in 2431 days


#12 posted 07-28-2016 01:53 PM

Lowes Irwin Marples 50T ATB-R. I had to order it ($39.98) and have it delivered to my local Lowes. I have used it several times to make box joints. Does a fine job. Every third tooth is flat so it flattens the bottom. And being a Marples, made in Italy (I think), its a higher quality than the standard Irwin products. I had to go to IRWIN.com to research it’s capabilities. They have a 60 tooth version also. Also that “ATB+R” identifies any blade as flat.

-- Randy in Crestview Florida, Wood Rocks!

View BenjaminNY's profile

BenjaminNY

136 posts in 1765 days


#13 posted 07-28-2016 02:02 PM

http://www.infinitytools.com/sawing/table-saw/table-saw-blades/ripping-saw-blades/10-ripping-saw-blade-24t-125-kerf

This is the one I use. Works very well for making flat bottom grooves. Think Infinity charges about 50 bucks for it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8278 posts in 3739 days


#14 posted 07-28-2016 06:26 PM


Lowes Irwin Marples 50T ATB-R. I had to order it ($39.98) and have it delivered to my local Lowes. I have used it several times to make box joints. Does a fine job. Every third tooth is flat so it flattens the bottom. And being a Marples, made in Italy (I think), its a higher quality than the standard Irwin products. I had to go to IRWIN.com to research it s capabilities. They have a 60 tooth version also. Also that “ATB+R” identifies any blade as flat.

- RandyinFlorida

Because the non-raker bevel top teeth protrude slightly above the flat rakers, ATB/R grinds aren’t truly flat….they’re only “flatter”. Only an FTG (flat top grind) will leave a truly flat bottom.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8278 posts in 3739 days


#15 posted 07-28-2016 06:30 PM


Freud industrial (the chrome one) best rip blade I ve used. LM74M010

- rwe2156

LM74 and LM75 are TCG grinds and aren’t truly flat either.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Dutchy's profile

Dutchy

3362 posts in 2532 days


#16 posted 07-28-2016 08:33 PM


Freud industrial (the chrome one) best rip blade I ve used. LM74M010

- rwe2156

This is what Freud writes about this saw:
“Designed for optimal performance, this blade cuts materials that are 1/8 to 1 inch thick, including hard- and softwood. This versatile blade handles crosscuts with chipboard, plywood, or laminate, and can tackle thinner or thicker materials. However, some loss of surface finish may occur when it is used outside its ideal range

In other words above 1” thickness there isn’t enough dust space between the teeth and above it there will be developed (to much) a lot of heat.

Why using a 10” saw when the producer advise is not to saw thicker as 1”. Even a 8” (maybe also a 6”) saw can do this job and is much more stable (and cheaper?) than a 10” one.

-- https://dutchypatterns.com/

View Dee1's profile

Dee1

325 posts in 2252 days


#17 posted 07-30-2016 01:14 AM

Wow
What a great bunch of replies Thank you all for your responses this forum is great!
Dee1

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