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View monkeyman83's profile

Boiled Linseed Oil and Polyurethane

by monkeyman83
posted 07-26-2016 05:22 PM


18 replies so far

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

672 posts in 1258 days


#1 posted 07-26-2016 05:57 PM

I’d be more inclined to pop the grain with Minwax Antique Oil or Watco Danish Oil, rather than BLO.

View joey502's profile

joey502

555 posts in 2028 days


#2 posted 07-26-2016 06:01 PM

I have used that finish, boiled linseed oil underneath oil based polyurethane, many times without issue. I usually thin the polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have never had an issue

View TheTurtleCarpenter's profile

TheTurtleCarpenter

1053 posts in 1576 days


#3 posted 07-26-2016 06:23 PM

Yes; The base to oil finishes is BLO, it is a binder for solids and pigments and creates flow. Polyurethanes and varnishes have Blo in them to dilute and make the finish flow out. Finishes also have thinners, (carriers) to reduce and extend drying times as in regular poly and quick drying polys.
You can change the way stains take by thinning Blo down and applying before staining. If you are unsure always do some test peices first.

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle"

View Jon Hobbs's profile

Jon Hobbs

147 posts in 1214 days


#4 posted 07-26-2016 06:25 PM

Here’s a finish that I learned from a guy with 50 years professional experience:

Wipe/rub on the boiled linseed oil
Immediately wipe on dewaxed shellac

The oil will do its enriching thing that it does so well. The shellac dries the oil almost immediately and adds a tiny bit of toughness. Quick, easy, almost foolproof.

I’ve followed up with several coats of Minwax wipe-on poly with good effect on surfaces that are high wear (e.g. table tops). I hit surfaces that don’t see much wear and tear with some furniture wax.

-- Jon -- Just a Minnesota kid hanging out in Kansas

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5748 posts in 3003 days


#5 posted 07-26-2016 06:35 PM

If you let the BLO set up enough, there won’t be any problem. That should take at least a day, and maybe more.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5227 posts in 4470 days


#6 posted 07-26-2016 06:58 PM

Once you get past MinWax products, you’ll have better results.
Bill

-- [email protected]

View jwmalone's profile

jwmalone

769 posts in 1212 days


#7 posted 07-26-2016 07:03 PM

I use that technique fairly often works well.

-- "Boy you could get more work done it you quit flapping your pie hole" Grandpa

View TMGStudioFurniture's profile

TMGStudioFurniture

55 posts in 1329 days


#8 posted 07-26-2016 08:10 PM

I’m pretty sure Watco Danish Oil is exactly that, a blend of BLO and polyurethane.

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/TMGStudioFurniture

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2406 posts in 2499 days


#9 posted 07-27-2016 01:13 AM

Yes you can but there really isn’t a need for blo. Here is some info on oils and varnishes. I find MW poly works just fine. Tested others, don’t see a discernible difference. I actually like it better than the non poly varnish Sherwin Williams has.

View Mojo1's profile

Mojo1

286 posts in 3200 days


#10 posted 07-27-2016 11:16 AM



Once you get past MinWax products, you ll have better results.
Bill

- Bill White


Can you elaborate on this?

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

964 posts in 1729 days


#11 posted 07-27-2016 01:58 PM

BLO thinned about 25% with mineral spirits, let dry for aday or 2, the topcoated with poly is one of my favorites and great results even with minwax poly.

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1276 posts in 2620 days


#12 posted 07-27-2016 03:22 PM

Here’s a finish that I learned from a guy with 50 years professional experience:

Wipe/rub on the boiled linseed oil
Immediately wipe on dewaxed shellac

I do similar, all in one step, mixing 33% each of BLO, Sealcoat, and Pine Turpentine. Do NOT substitute paint thinner, “turps”, or any other similar solvent.

Keep it in a squeeze bottle and keep shaking to keep it mixed. Wipe it on, wipe it off, move on in just a few hours with solvent or oil clears.

I also use this under water based finishes on certain woods with fantastic results, letting it dry over night.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2743 posts in 3432 days


#13 posted 07-28-2016 12:55 AM



Yes you can but there really isn t a need for blo. Here is some info on oils and varnishes. I find MW poly works just fine. Tested others, don t see a discernible difference. I actually like it better than the non poly varnish Sherwin Williams has.

- OSU55

OSU55 Thanks for that link. I learned a lot about wipe on finishes there.

-- No PHD just a DD214

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1459 posts in 3359 days


#14 posted 07-28-2016 08:59 PM

I’ve also had success with WB poly over BLO, usually give the piece 3 or 4 days to dry well then use my HF HVLP gun to shoot light coats, then once the poly cures a light rub with 0000 SW and a coat of johnsons paste wax. It’s a good looking finsh that stands up to having kids, especially girls and the dammned nail polish

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3343 posts in 4333 days


#15 posted 07-29-2016 12:42 AM

Here my favorite hand rub finish
1/3 blo
1/3 wood filler
1/3 fast drying varnish
Mix ingredients to a paste consistency
Apply with terry cloth , let set than buff off.

Any one hear of Harding furniture it one of their case good finishes.
This finish has a satin soft look and very smooth to the touch.
Let’s keep it our secret, cat out the bag, haha.

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2428 posts in 3454 days


#16 posted 07-29-2016 12:56 AM

In the end, poly and hardening oils play well together. You can even add BLO to oil based poly to bend it more toward being a long oil finish, which is what is used on surfaces that see a lot of abuse by weather. It isn’t as hard, but it flexes more, so can tolerate the expansion and contraction of the wood better.

As others say, let the BLO harden completely, then start tossing poly on.

Popping the grain with Minwax, Watco and similar products is just the equivalent of putting a coat of highly thinned poly [with a lot of advertising behind it] on. More specifically, it’s applying polymerized linseed oil with resins added, which is what poly is.

While you do have to wipe hardening oils off to avoid orange peel, wiping it on and off just as soon as you do is wasteful. People do this with mineral oil on butcher block, for example, and it drives me nuts. Let it soak as much as possible (with a cutting board, just walk away and forget it, letting it soak in), then get rid of the excess.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10933 posts in 1648 days


#17 posted 07-29-2016 02:12 AM

My go-to finish for most woods that I don’t need a thick film on is 2:2:1 BLO:MS:Poly. Wipes on easily and is easily refreshed periodically for shop tools and furniture that doesn’t take a beating.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1459 posts in 3359 days


#18 posted 07-29-2016 09:06 PM


While you do have to wipe hardening oils off to avoid orange peel, wiping it on and off just as soon as you do is wasteful. People do this with mineral oil on butcher block, for example, and it drives me nuts. Let it soak as much as possible (with a cutting board, just walk away and forget it, letting it soak in), then get rid of the excess.
- Kelly

OH +1 So Much I’m a cheap bastard and with BLO I let it soak until it gets tacky and the cutting boards get left with a good puddle of miracle oil on them for a day or 2. Long grain boards won’t absorb as much, but you’d be surprised how much an endgrain board will soak up.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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