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View SweatyTeddy's profile

Dull plane

by SweatyTeddy
posted 04-04-2016 02:17 PM


24 replies so far

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2494 posts in 2309 days


#1 posted 04-04-2016 02:26 PM

Aww and so begins the quest for the perfect edge.
There’s many YouTube videos the help you start your journey.
I hope your not trying to instigate the forum to fight.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View TechTeacher04's profile

TechTeacher04

412 posts in 2043 days


#2 posted 04-04-2016 02:27 PM

http://www.hocktools.com/tech-info/sharpen.html

Try here, I have developed my own hybrid method. Hard to explain. Good luck, I have 2 #5s formerly my grandfathers on both sides. Glad you share the appreciation too.

View SweatyTeddy's profile

SweatyTeddy

50 posts in 1296 days


#3 posted 04-04-2016 02:34 PM

I have been known to be an instigator Aj but my intentions are pure this time I swear.

-- I'd be done by now if I knew what I was doing! - said by no man ever with a woman present

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3799 posts in 2763 days


#4 posted 04-04-2016 02:52 PM

“dull as a seminar on seminar planning”—that’s pretty funny. Good luck discovering the best sharpening system that works for you.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

View Robert's profile

Robert

3538 posts in 1992 days


#5 posted 04-04-2016 04:20 PM

Plan irons can be sharpened with a camber this may be the curve you’re seeing.

35 degrees is the typical angle.

You’ll need to start with grinding to restore the blade and angle and then some honing.

Keep in mind sharpening is an art unto itself, but you can start by using a honing guide.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

23797 posts in 3194 days


#6 posted 04-04-2016 04:34 PM

Per Stanley: ( it is stamped on their plane irons) 25 degrees.

You can rig a grinder jig to attach to the tool rest, and lock it at that angle. Keep a cup of water close by, and dunk often.

You can use either oil stones ( I use a 600 and a 1000 grit) sandpaper on a flat surface, go out and buy a worksharp tool, or even water stones and diamond stones. Until you can get the feel of how to hold the iron, invest in a guide of some sort, to hold the iron at the angle needed.

Find an old leather work belt, or even a weightlifter’s leather belt, cut a decent section, attach it to something flat. You now have a strop to polish the edge. It works on the pull stroke, lift up the iron each pass, and then pull it back to you. Either dry, or with a polishing compound of your choice.

Just worry about the first 1/2” of the back being flat and polished. Just worry about get that one bevel done, you can worry about any other “extra” bevels at another time. A flatten back, and a sharp bevel is enough to get started using the plane. IF the edge is curved a bit ( Cambered they call it) try to follow that curve. otherwise, you can just make a nice straight edge across, square to the sides of the iron. I have one or two #5 planes that work very nicely as smoothers.

Basically, Keep It Simple….THEN work up from there.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10947 posts in 1650 days


#7 posted 04-04-2016 05:45 PM

Hey Teddy, all of the above is good advice. There is a whole lot of other good advice out there too. There is also a lot of bad advice out there and sometimes it can be hard to distinguish! There are many methods that all have their pros and cons.

I get the impression that you don’t regularly sharpen any tools and are just starting to decide whether you are a hand plane user or not. So, I’d recommend starting with the “Scary Sharp” method. All you need to invest in is a granite tile or piece of glass and a few grades of wet/dry paper. It may not be the best long term solution, but it’s definitely the most economic way to get started. Pick an angle between 25 and 35 degrees and you’ll be fine. 25 will take a sharper edge and 35 is a more durable edge. It’s just a matter of finding a balance that suits the material your working. FWIW, I haven’t seen a significant difference so I hone all my irons at 25 degrees. You can free-hand sharpen, but if you’ve never sharpened before or you’re reshaping the edge you’ll save a lot of pain using a guide. You can buy one or make one. Whether or not you use camber varies from plane-to-plane, user-to-user, and job-to-job. You didn’t say what size your plane is so it’s hard to make a recommendation in that respect.

If you decide you aren’t sure it’s worth the investment without knowing if you’ll even like using the handplane, I’ll be glad to sharpen your iron for you. Just send it to me with a SASE. Just PM me if you’re interested.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View SweatyTeddy's profile

SweatyTeddy

50 posts in 1296 days


#8 posted 04-04-2016 06:25 PM

I think it’s called a bench plane. 10/12 inch long

-- I'd be done by now if I knew what I was doing! - said by no man ever with a woman present

View JohnDon's profile

JohnDon

89 posts in 1680 days


#9 posted 04-04-2016 06:31 PM

In addition to the good advice already posted, the fastest and easiest sharpening is to match the existing bevel. The easiest way to do that is to wipe the entire beveled edge with a Magic Marker.

Use a rolling honing guide (~$15); hone a few strokes and inspect where the ink has been removed. Fine tune the blade extension until the ink is removed uniformly across the bevel surface.

I agree that using the ” Scary Sharp” method is the most cost effective and flexible way to get going. Good luck.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10947 posts in 1650 days


#10 posted 04-04-2016 07:02 PM



I think it s called a bench plane. 10/12 inch long

- SweatyTeddy

Bench plane is a broad category that basically includes any plane that is meant to be used with 2 hands. Block planes are the other category and are generally used one-handed. Your plane is indeed a bench plane – a smoother, probably a Stanley #4-1/2 (or equivalent). The iron should be mounted bevel-down. A plane the size of yours is a “smoother” and most likely does have some camber on the cutting edge. I would follow the camber that’s there as long as it’s not too much. On a smoother, the camber is to prevent leaving track marks at the edges of the stroke. You can also sharpen it straight across and just “break” the corners (my personal preference).

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View drcodfish's profile

drcodfish

124 posts in 1463 days


#11 posted 04-04-2016 07:26 PM

If the blade has a curve to it (where it meets the wood) it could be a scrub plane. Google that and you’ll find pics and learn that (if it is a scrub plane) it has a particular use which isn’t the same as the average bench plane.

If you grandpa made a living in carpentry then it would make sense that he would have and use a scrub plane, but for the average wood worker they were not so common.

-- Dr C

View Don W's profile

Don W

19339 posts in 3079 days


#12 posted 04-04-2016 08:09 PM

for now, google scary sharp. Its a sand paper sharpening process that will work very well with minimum investment.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2407 posts in 2501 days


#13 posted 04-04-2016 08:18 PM

Your description sounds like the bevel is convex, rather then the edge curving or cambering across the width of the blade, from the center. Paul Sellers advocates such a bevel. Since you are just starting, i agree the scary sharp method is the best way to start. A bench grinder with a platform or any type of sander, disc or belt, with a simple jig (lots of info on the web) cab be used to gring a 25 deg primary bevel, then a simple jig can be used to hold the blade at a slightly higher angle, usually up to 30 deg, to create a sharp edge with progressively finer grit. Herehttp://lumberjocks.com/OSU55/blog/39391 is my take on honing, a modified scary sharp method. Sandpaper can be used as the media.

You are starting in the right place, i.e. Sharpening. No matter how well a plane is tuned, it wont work for nothin till it has a truly sharp blade.

View sepeck's profile

sepeck

402 posts in 2652 days


#14 posted 04-04-2016 08:32 PM

Also, look around your area. See if there is a wood working guild or other organization. While I have no time to go to the one that is local to me, they have several people who are quit willing to hold sharpening classes, etc. The availability of videos and other knowledge is awesome, but working in person with someone with experience is something hard to beat.

I just looked and my local Woodcraft has a sharpening your handtools class as well. (possibly taught by the same guy in the local wood guild).

-- -Steven Peck, http://www.blkmtn.org

View SweatyTeddy's profile

SweatyTeddy

50 posts in 1296 days


#15 posted 04-05-2016 03:48 AM

Do I need to get a special kind of sand paper or can I just use my random orbit paper and stick it to a piece of pexiglas that I have?

-- I'd be done by now if I knew what I was doing! - said by no man ever with a woman present

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

1286 posts in 2185 days


#16 posted 04-05-2016 03:56 AM

Grinding and honing cutting edges used to be a simple, fast job and then….... the internet happened.

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

23797 posts in 3194 days


#17 posted 04-05-2016 04:16 AM

You can also get the wet&dry kind of papers…up to 3000 grit.

Plexiglas is ok…IF there is something solid underneath it for support.

You might also go and watch a couple of Paul Sellers youtube shows about this subject.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10947 posts in 1650 days


#18 posted 04-05-2016 12:22 PM

What bandit said ^. You’ll need paper much finer than what you most likely have for your ROS. You’ll probably wan’t to start around 400 and work up to 1500 or finer. Wet/dry is preferable as well because you can use oil and it won’t clog as bad.

Whatever you put the paper on needs to be pretty darned flat and rigid so your bevel has uniform contact over the entire length. Otherwise you won’t get a good edge all the way across.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Paul M's profile

Paul M

117 posts in 1814 days


#19 posted 04-05-2016 05:57 PM

+ 1 on the scary sharp method. I’m still new to using hand planes and sharpen the few I have on sandpaper on a marble plate. I used a store bought honing guide at first, but now just make up very simple wood guides for holding the iron at the proper angles. I like the 3M wet/dry paper (the red stuff) in full sheets, and use a bit of glass cleaner for adhering the paper to the plate, and also for the honing liquid. I agree that the Paul Sellers videos are very informative.

-- Paul M

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10947 posts in 1650 days


#20 posted 04-05-2016 08:45 PM



Grinding and honing cutting edges used to be a simple, fast job and then….... the internet happened.

- Texcaster

I see your point and I agree that there is a plethora of information out there, alot of it contradictory, that confuses the issue and prolongs the process. On the other hand, I can hone a plane iron to a razor sharp edge in a few minutes now. A year ago, I couldn’t get an equivalent edge no matter how long I took. And I never would have thought to use wet/dry paper as the abrasive. So in my case, the internet was a life saver and made a chore that I hated a simple part of my shop routine. That internet’s a double-edged sword isn’t it?!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View SweatyTeddy's profile

SweatyTeddy

50 posts in 1296 days


#21 posted 04-08-2016 11:55 PM

This is the plane in question. The first picture is the blade you can kind of see the slight ofset on it. And the second is of the curve I’m talking about

.

-- I'd be done by now if I knew what I was doing! - said by no man ever with a woman present

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10947 posts in 1650 days


#22 posted 04-09-2016 01:34 AM

The first pic is the camber. It’s slight and is about what I would use for a jack plane. Probably good to just hone with what is there. Second pic is a rounded bevel. Some people like to “roll” it when they hone. I’ve never tried so can’t really comment.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Sylvain's profile

Sylvain

881 posts in 3010 days


#23 posted 04-10-2016 02:56 PM

Paul Sellers video here

look for: “Sharpening and setting the bench plane with paul Sellers” where he shows his free hand method on diamond plates.

look at: “Restoring the bench plane with Paul Sellers” where he uses sand paper and a jig to reestablish a correct angle.

This should get you started

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

View Aidan1211's profile

Aidan1211

198 posts in 1337 days


#24 posted 04-18-2016 04:43 PM

If it is still a butter cutter pm me and I’ll sharpen it for you to help you out. I really like hearing that it has been through the generations.

-- its better to plan on the task at hand than actually doing it........ You look smarter.

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