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All Replies on Cutting plywood with a circular saw

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View BossHog's profile

Cutting plywood with a circular saw

by BossHog
posted 08-06-2007 12:32 AM


17 replies so far

View Buckskin's profile

Buckskin

486 posts in 4499 days


#1 posted 08-06-2007 01:01 AM

I have a Skill Clasic and it seems to work just fine on saw horses and all. Heck I have even cut cultured limestone with it.

View Karson's profile

Karson

35202 posts in 4912 days


#2 posted 08-06-2007 01:03 AM

Was the saw blade mounted correctly. Teeth pointing the correct way.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia [email protected]

View BossHog's profile

BossHog

5 posts in 4458 days


#3 posted 08-06-2007 01:33 AM

Yes, I checked that and the repair shop agreed.

-- Boss Hog

View edp's profile

edp

109 posts in 4472 days


#4 posted 08-06-2007 02:51 AM

Don’t know without seeing the saw but it sounds like the arbor is/was misaligned with the shoe. That is, assuming you were using a straight edge to guide the saw. Can’t blame the plywood if your smaller saw worked fine.

Ed

-- Come on in, the beer is cold and the wood is dry. www.crookedlittletree.com

View oscorner's profile

oscorner

4563 posts in 4822 days


#5 posted 08-06-2007 03:26 AM

I know you said you had a new plywood cutting blade on it, but what brand was it? You may want to use a multipurpose blade and see if that makes a difference. I know that the plywood cutting blade should work without smoking and burning. Any good circular saw should cut the plywood without what you have experienced. If you continue using you saw with this abuse, I’m affraid that you risk getting hurt or at the least, burning up your saw motor.

-- Jesus is Lord!

View dennis mitchell's profile

dennis mitchell

3994 posts in 4826 days


#6 posted 08-06-2007 03:46 AM

Different type blade…

View markrules's profile

markrules

146 posts in 4626 days


#7 posted 08-06-2007 11:53 AM

Take it back and try another of the same model. May be something in the saw not working correctly. I’d also guess that the blade is on backwards… If not, I’d look at the tool.

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4444 posts in 4474 days


#8 posted 08-06-2007 02:56 PM

We use a Skil worm drive with Freud blades. I can’t remember the number of the blade but it never bogs down even in 1 1/2 ” Alder or Oak. I think the problem is your blades. The saw should cut the ply like butter. I had ply blade cut a crooked line in a sheet of plywood one time. When I took it out it looked like a potato chip. I’ve never used a plywood blade since. If you are worried about tear out use masking tape and for sure use a straight edge.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1520 posts in 4636 days


#9 posted 08-06-2007 06:14 PM

Sounds like you may also have problems with torquing the blade, so you’re getting plywood in contact with the side of the blade rather than just the teeth.

It’s not a function of saw power, it’s a function of the blade generating heat, and how it’s dissipating heat. So either the blade isn’t big enough and you’re not radiating enough energy (which is possible, but I doubt it if you’re having that problem in a foot of cutting), or there’s something in your technique with the blade that’s causing the side of the blade to rub on the wood, heating far more than the teeth of the blade would.

I had similar problems with a low-end saw whenever I tried to cut along a straight-edge. I now have a Festool TS55 circular saw that runs on a rail, and have had no problems with blade alignment relative to the guide, and can rip two-by wet fir with no problems.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View BossHog's profile

BossHog

5 posts in 4458 days


#10 posted 08-06-2007 09:54 PM

The blade was a Dewalt plywood blade. It was installed properly, even the repair shop said that. I’m going to try a conventional blade and see how that works. Switching to a plywood blade helped wen I was using the small saw, but maybe a conventional blade will work better on the larger saw. If that doesn’t work, I’m going to buy one of the Festtool saws. I received the saw as a gift and I didn’t save the box, which I need to return the saw, so I’m stuck with it.

Thanks for all of your insights into this problem.

-- Boss Hog

View hardwired56's profile

hardwired56

2 posts in 4457 days


#11 posted 08-07-2007 02:34 AM

For what it’s worth, I had the same problem with a 18v battery saw with a plywood blade from DeWalt. The saw just smoked and literally burned the wood before killing the battery. I took the darn things apart and discovered the blade had been incorrectly stamped at the factory. Look at the teeth and rotation of the saw motor with out a blade attached. Try flipping the blade. I got a 325 MAG and had ZERO trouble with it, just sorry imported blades from China.

View Wooder's profile

Wooder

163 posts in 4697 days


#12 posted 08-07-2007 03:09 AM

I use the same blade with my Milwaukee in 3/4 hickory ply. Melts thru it like butter. Blade or saw problem.

Jimmy

-- Jimmy

View snowdog's profile

snowdog

1167 posts in 4494 days


#13 posted 08-08-2007 02:36 PM

This is probably self evident but I wanted to post it anyway. When you cut any wood the saw blade should barely extend past the wood being cut. I like 1/8 to 1/4 so that more teeth are in contact with the wood at any given time during the cut.

-- "so much to learn and so little time"..

View padric's profile

padric

34 posts in 2743 days


#14 posted 12-26-2012 10:05 PM

I use a Skil trim saw for all plywood cutting. Uusually, with a 4” carbide- tipped blade. I always use a locking guide bar, eiither 24” or 50”, and run the saw base alongside the guide bar. I support the cut off piece and, while cutting, stop the cut 8” in and apply a clamp across the kerf to help keep the sheet flat before resuming the cut. . With some wood stock I apply masking tape over both the face and rear cutting line and only allow 1/8” of the blade to show beneath the board.. I’ve never had a problem with this simple set up. It sounds, as some commentors have said, that there was an alignment problem.

-- [email protected]

View Ben's profile

Ben

445 posts in 3368 days


#15 posted 12-27-2012 01:24 AM

i’ve just cut a whole kitchen’s worth of cabinets with my circular saw, and this blade: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU79R007-Perma-Shield-Ultimate-38-Degree/dp/B002IPHGA2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1356571420&sr=8-5&keywords=7+1%2F4%22+plywood+blade

zero burn, zero tear, pretty effortless cutting through 3/4” birch ply.

View MNgary's profile

MNgary

313 posts in 2928 days


#16 posted 12-27-2012 01:50 AM

Were you using a straight edge or guide? If so, maybe the blade isn’t running parallel to the edge guide or the edge of the base plate.

I use a cheap 110V 5.25” Makita with inexpensive 36 tooth cutoff blades (Vermont American) to break down my 3/4 inch plywood sheets and have no problems. Of course, I have to trim to final size on the table saw due to the heavily chipped cuts it makes.

-- I dream of a world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

3599 posts in 2998 days


#17 posted 12-27-2012 02:07 AM

Come on guys, this was posted in 2007…. The saw was 10 years old then. If it even exists, it’s probably a door stop.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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