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View dakremer's profile

Poly after paint

by dakremer
posted 10-03-2015 07:24 PM


24 replies so far

View Shane's profile

Shane

294 posts in 2723 days


#1 posted 10-03-2015 07:36 PM

Be careful. Poly tends to give a yellow tint to white paint. I just had this problem with my trim. Not sure what the best choice is but do some test pieces first. The acrylic might not need a top coat anyway

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2748 posts in 4003 days


#2 posted 10-03-2015 07:40 PM



Be careful. Poly tends to give a yellow tint to white paint. I just had this problem with my trim. Not sure what the best choice is but do some test pieces first. The acrylic might not need a top coat anyway

- Shane

I thought that was just oil based poly? (I could be wrong)

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2748 posts in 4003 days


#3 posted 10-03-2015 07:42 PM

is there a better protective finish that I can put over my latex paint?

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8951 posts in 3489 days


#4 posted 10-03-2015 07:59 PM

Leave well enough alone Doc!

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2748 posts in 4003 days


#5 posted 10-03-2015 08:18 PM

I’m not following you Waho – don’t poly it?

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

18119 posts in 3918 days


#6 posted 10-03-2015 09:02 PM

I dont think id poly dak. Best bet is to ask the sherwin williams people. Theyre pretty knowledgable about their products.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2748 posts in 4003 days


#7 posted 10-03-2015 09:07 PM

Mt brother-in-law just told me the same thing – that he would not put a finish over it. That the paint alone should be strong enough. If this is the case, is there a good way to buff out the paint to get out some of the tiny bumps, without scratching the surface?

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1540 posts in 2864 days


#8 posted 10-03-2015 09:09 PM

I agree that my understanding is that water-based poly doesn’t give the yellow tone. However, the only times I have used it over paint was on colored finishes, so I wouldn’t see the issue as much. As far as brushing versus spraying, it would probably depend more on your spraying equipment than anything else. I would certainly recommend making several test panels to see what works best for your gear, technique, and personal taste. I think that the “leave well enough alone” comment was aimed at not making a mess of your cabinets by using the wrong finish, applying the poly after too little curing time for the paint, or with the wrong application technique. You can eliminate all of those variables by making test panels. I wouldn’t do a major project without doing that unless I was using a tried and true method I had used successfully before.

View Fish22's profile

Fish22

83 posts in 4025 days


#9 posted 10-03-2015 09:11 PM

I would use lacquer. Most professionally painted cabinets are top coated with lacquer.

-- Bryan, South River, NJ

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8951 posts in 3489 days


#10 posted 10-03-2015 09:21 PM

“That the paint alone should be strong enough.”

That’s my understanding as well.

” If this is the case, is there a good way to buff out the paint to get out some of the tiny bumps, without scratching the surface?”

Not to my knowledge. First I’d want to know what the tiny bumps are so we can alleviate them and then sand with
higher grits to get a professional finish.

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1540 posts in 2864 days


#11 posted 10-03-2015 09:47 PM



I would use lacquer. Most professionally painted cabinets are top coated with lacquer.

- Fish22

Agreed. However, the vast majority of us do not have the equipment or spray booth to apply a lacquer finish like the pros do. The guy who did all of the custom cabinetry for my kitchen and master bath remodels has one hell of a shop. Incredible tools for machining the stock, dedicated assembly area to get it all square, large, dedicated sanding space with down flow tables, and spray ROOMS with laminar flow exhausts and highly filtered air intakes. The results are spectacular. I can’t really get comparable results in my cellar or garage workspace with a rattle can or HVLP sprayer. Water-based poly over paint is a good compromise that can look very nice, wear well, and mesh well with a home shop.

View joey502's profile

joey502

558 posts in 2430 days


#12 posted 10-04-2015 03:36 AM

If you do apply poly I would definitely use a waterborne product. Waterborne poly in my opinion finishes much better by spraying.

I have read that minwax polycrylic does not spray well but have never tried it so I can not say for sure.

General high performance sprays well, you don’t need expensive spray equipment to use it either. I have used it several times out of a harbor frieght pneumatic hvlp.

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

1145 posts in 3196 days


#13 posted 10-04-2015 04:19 AM

I just applied Minwax Polycrylic, over latex paint, on these last week. It went on crystal clear and looks great.

As far as spraying it, the gun couldn’t be easier to clean. Once you’re done spraying, it’s just soap and water.

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View kevinw's profile

kevinw

199 posts in 4651 days


#14 posted 10-04-2015 10:33 PM

I echo the opinions about test panels. I would say definitely DO NOT use brushing lacquer over paint. It can tend to dissolve some paints and cause streaking or rumple up the paint as the lacquer cures. If you go with lacquer I would for sure spray if you have the equipment.

-- Kevin, Blue Springs, MO

View BentheViking's profile

BentheViking

1782 posts in 3476 days


#15 posted 10-04-2015 11:39 PM

The Proclassic you used—was that an enamel not a paint? I believe that thats the same stuff when I redid my kitchen cabinets. I didn’t add a top coat. They held up pretty well and are very easy to clean.

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

View paxorion's profile

paxorion

1107 posts in 2957 days


#16 posted 10-05-2015 01:58 AM

When I made my wall cabinets, I gave them 3-5 days for the paint to dry before putting on Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane. I added polyurethane mainly to address blocking that I was clued in on by Fred Hargis. As others have said, polyurethane adds a yellow tint so be careful about laying too thick a coat.

-- paxorion

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

25461 posts in 4017 days


#17 posted 10-08-2015 02:06 AM

Clear poly will give you way better protection than the latex paint. Use water based, though, because the oil based will show up real yellow over white. For cabinets with all the corners and face boards it would best to spry the poly on, but if you can’t do that, use a foam brush or wipe it on with an old T shirt.

Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Kyle Nelson's profile

Kyle Nelson

58 posts in 2226 days


#18 posted 10-20-2015 04:00 PM

I’ve used the exact clear coat you mentioned over white paint on some table legs/bases, with no yellowing to speak of. I don’t know that it provides a huge deal of additional protection, but it takes me 30 minutes to brush it on so it’s worth it. May not be worth the trouble for a project of your scale though.

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1276 posts in 3022 days


#19 posted 10-20-2015 06:28 PM

One excellent solution is not to use latex paint.

I’ve found General Finishes Milk Paint to be super easy to apply, non-blocking, and easy to clean. I don’t bother overcoating it, even in kitchens.

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

9106 posts in 3062 days


#20 posted 10-20-2015 06:53 PM


One excellent solution is not to use latex paint.

I ve found General Finishes Milk Paint to be super easy to apply, non-blocking, and easy to clean. I don t bother overcoating it, even in kitchens.

- OggieOglethorpe

The Sherwin Williams Proclassic paint is not actually latex. It’s 100% Acrylic paint. Just like the General Finishes Milk Paint (which isn’t milk paint)

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1276 posts in 3022 days


#21 posted 10-21-2015 01:29 PM

The Sherwin Williams Proclassic paint is not actually latex. It’s 100% Acrylic paint.

That’s great to know. Thanks!

S/W is easier for me to get than GF, so I’ll have to check Proclassic out.

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2748 posts in 4003 days


#22 posted 10-21-2015 03:18 PM

I did not know that either! I have decided not to poly the cabinets. We’ll see how well they hold up. I can always poly at a later date if I feel they aren’t holding up so well.

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

9106 posts in 3062 days


#23 posted 10-21-2015 03:25 PM

It’s also cheaper if you can find it on sale. This past weekend was a 40% off sale. They have one weekend with 35-40% off every other month or so. I just bought a gallon this weekend for a murphy bed build that was $40ish after tax instead of the normal $70ish.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2748 posts in 4003 days


#24 posted 10-21-2015 03:28 PM

My wife works at our University Hospital, and gets a 40% discount at S/W. So we get that 40% every day :) It adds up, especially when you are renovating an entire house like us!

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

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