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View BenI's profile

Advice about upcoming project

by BenI
posted 01-18-2014 06:56 PM


20 replies so far

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

9028 posts in 3810 days


#1 posted 01-18-2014 07:22 PM

Dado shelving to add strength. Cut an inset for a back panel. Always keep in mind expansion and contraction of wood in your build. If it must be open use a framing strip on the top and under the first shelf with add strength, give it some nice lines, and reduce wracking from side to side.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5849 posts in 4552 days


#2 posted 01-18-2014 07:36 PM

Why are you using sliding dovetails? If you do decide to do this then leave at least 40mm or one and a half inches imho.I would make it using plywood which is strong amplifiers take quite a bit of a beating sometimes when on stage.Alistair ps wait for others to chip in with ideas before making your mind up.

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View BenI's profile

BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#3 posted 01-18-2014 07:59 PM

Doc – there actually isn’t any need for any shelves because they can be ‘stacked’ when attached to the mounting brackets but I was planning on putting the back part in a rabbet along the back.

Scotsman – Mainly using sliding dovetails to try something new and for strength, don’t want it coming apart. I believe they’re for pre-amps, I’m not a musician so no idea what that means but that they’ll be a couple of them in it at once.

-- Ben from IL

View hobby1's profile

hobby1

349 posts in 3265 days


#4 posted 01-18-2014 08:01 PM

dovetail joint like that will break easiily in that kind of hefty situation, the dovetail is good for sides assembly but not for bottom assembly with that much weight.

View wseand's profile

wseand

2796 posts in 4009 days


#5 posted 01-18-2014 08:06 PM

I wouldn’t use sliding dovetail. I would use something like my crude drawing. It will add a lot more gluing surface and stability. I would also add some sort of face frame to tie them all together. as well I would add some sort of back onto it even if it’s not completely covering the back something to hold it all together

View BenI's profile

BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#6 posted 01-18-2014 08:49 PM

Thanks for all the quick replies!

Hobby- The weight of the amps will be on the sides because of how the brackets attach but it does make sense.

wseand – I was planning on using solid wood so I wouldn’t have to do any edge banding or bother with a face frame but I have thought about corner bracing to make it a little more sturdy. In your drawing the top (and bottom) would fit into a groove in the sides, correct?

Hopefully this question isn’t as stupid as I might think it is…

The grain should go ‘around’ the case not front to back right??

-- Ben from IL

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

9028 posts in 3810 days


#7 posted 01-18-2014 08:54 PM

No stupid questions! Always horizontal grain patters, Matching if possible. KISS! I have to remember this….LOL

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View BenI's profile

BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#8 posted 01-18-2014 09:05 PM

Haha thanks for understanding Doc. I thought so since the strength is along its grain but wanted to check.

-- Ben from IL

View levan's profile

levan

472 posts in 3947 days


#9 posted 01-18-2014 09:07 PM

How large is this to be. Can you put a back on it.

-- "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View BenI's profile

BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#10 posted 01-18-2014 10:49 PM

I don’t know the exact dimensions yet (should find out tomorrow) but roughly 12” in each dimension give or take a few. However, I need to allow access in the back for wires and the fans so I can’t have the whole back cover back I will have some of it covered.

-- Ben from IL

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BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#11 posted 01-18-2014 11:42 PM

Can anyone chime in on what wseand picture was showing as to whether the top and bottom would fit into the sides or the sides would fit into the top and bottom??

I’ve been trying to see which way he meant to have the design and it seems like either way could work.

-- Ben from IL

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 3328 days


#12 posted 01-19-2014 12:13 AM

Dovetails ain’t smart. What’s wrong with screws and glue?

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 3936 days


#13 posted 01-19-2014 12:51 AM

Make it from veneered ply with pocket screws and glue. Very strong for this type of application.

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

9028 posts in 3810 days


#14 posted 01-19-2014 02:37 AM

Not sure of the vision here. Or the materials?

Do you have a concept in mind? Corner braces are good for rigidity. Using edging can be decorative and functional. Fans for cooling the amps?

If you use a shelf with a dado then the downward weight would also add strength and rigidity.

Looks like a sliding dovetail is overkill here?

Good luck. Make a scale model for concept and practice.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View GOOD LUCK TO ALL's profile

GOOD LUCK TO ALL

418 posts in 2695 days


#15 posted 01-19-2014 02:46 AM

View BenI's profile

BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#16 posted 01-19-2014 02:49 AM

Planning on using either cypress or pine, solid wood either way. I want it to look clean so glue and screws are out and I’d rather not use plywood because then I would have to face frame or edge band.

Doc – First, thanks for checking back in and adding feedback. Second, I think I’ll have stub tenon and groove for the joints, lot easier than dovetails, which as you said would kill. As for a shelf, the way the amps fit in, there isn’t a way it could fit unless it was really close to the top or bottom but wouldn’t show much use.

I was told that the amps themselves have fans so I just have to worry about the airflow from the back.

-- Ben from IL

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BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#17 posted 01-19-2014 02:51 AM

Kevin that would make for a very strong joint but I don’t have a lock miter bit (which I believe it is right?) and I don’t have a router table so it would be difficult to make it accurately.

-- Ben from IL

View wseand's profile

wseand

2796 posts in 4009 days


#18 posted 01-19-2014 03:10 AM

Sorry Ben, Had to go out on the town with Mom,

Just like the Pic shows. The Dado goes in the side.

View BenI's profile

BenI

333 posts in 3145 days


#19 posted 01-19-2014 03:18 AM

Quite alright, Bill! Thanks for replying, I think I will go with your plan. Lot easier to set up than dovetails and should be plenty strong, especially the way the weight is supported. Thanks again.

PS. the Guinness bottle cap was a nice touch =)

-- Ben from IL

View wseand's profile

wseand

2796 posts in 4009 days


#20 posted 01-19-2014 03:31 AM

I just saw that when i was looking at the pic. Someone must of snuck in the shop and had one. Damn Thieves.

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