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View SnowyRiver's profile

Resawing Blade For A Bandsaw

by SnowyRiver
posted 11-26-2012 05:09 PM


35 replies so far

View Chris Wright's profile

Chris Wright

541 posts in 4082 days


#1 posted 11-26-2012 05:14 PM

Try a half inch blade with 4 tpi, either hook or skip should give you better results. That’s what I used on my 18” in my old shop.

-- "At its best, life is completely unpredictable." - Christopher Walken

View Rj's profile

Rj

1047 posts in 4232 days


#2 posted 11-26-2012 05:21 PM

I’ve always used the wood slicer by Highland woodworking http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

-- Rj's Woodworks,San Jose & Weed Ca,

View Wazy's profile

Wazy

75 posts in 2838 days


#3 posted 11-26-2012 05:22 PM

1/2” X 3 TPI will give you a clean straight cut, remember to not be in a hurry (not pushing hard) and let the blade do it’s job. Viking makes a good one. Good luck, resawing gives a lot more freedom of choice with less waste. Wally

View Joe's profile

Joe

185 posts in 3994 days


#4 posted 11-26-2012 05:25 PM

Yup, I second that 3 or 4 TPI will yeild better results. I use a 3/4” 4-TPI on y 14” and it cuts so much better.

-- Senior Chief

View Biff's profile

Biff

126 posts in 2615 days


#5 posted 11-26-2012 05:44 PM

If you are having to push then that really only means two things. 1) Your blade is dull 2) You are trying to cut too fast and not letting the chips clear the cut.

Remember the bigger (and denser) the stock the slower the feed rate needs to be.

-- Interested in Oregon property? Visit me at http://www.willamettepropertiesgroup.com

View Porchfish's profile

Porchfish

860 posts in 3133 days


#6 posted 11-26-2012 05:51 PM

3 TPI hook & skip I prefer timberwolf but to each his own ! slow & steady & enjoy !

-- The pig caught under the fence is always the one doing all the squealing !

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2789 posts in 2735 days


#7 posted 11-26-2012 05:58 PM

+1 on feeding too fast & dull blade.

Rule of thumb for resawing is wider blade and less teeth per inch. My personal experience with 14” band saws shows not all with take a 3/4” or wider blade even though manufacturer specs says they will. Common blade width for 14” BS resawing or cutting big stock is ¼”, 3/8” and 1/2” with 3 or 4 hook or skip tooth. Some blade companies offer highbred combination blasé sets which work as well.

-- Bill

View HillbillyShooter's profile

HillbillyShooter

5811 posts in 2893 days


#8 posted 11-26-2012 06:00 PM

Agree with Rj—http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

Also, and no disrespect to Joe or anyone else, I would not go above a 1/2” wide blade on a 14” BS. Have a 3/4” Lenox carbide tooth blade that I loved, but it ended up taking both tires off my 14” Delta BS which has a 1-1/2 hp Baldor motor and was purchased in the mid 1980s.

Also, I’ve had good luck with timberwolf blades.

Best wishes.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3389 posts in 2774 days


#9 posted 11-26-2012 07:41 PM

“For resaw, mostly carbon blades are used but different blade manufacturers have different resaw blades; simonds has the red streak blade, lenox has theirs too – I’m not sure what the name is but what I use is hard back carbon blades Haltbar 201 Series .
The blade dimensions would depend on the saw that you are using. Different band saw models take different sizes of blades. For wood working, they are mostly using vertical bandsaws which can take different widths ranging from 1/8 of an inch up to 3/4 inch or 1 inch. And as far as I know, we use 3/4 inch blade for resaw. But it really depends on what works best .. 3/4 inch blades may work for some but will not work for others.”

- This is from my post in this link http://lumberjocks.com/Surfside/blog/33035#comment-1406662
You may want to call sawblade.com and ask for assistance about your issue.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51458 posts in 4081 days


#10 posted 11-26-2012 08:31 PM

Thanks for all the good info folks. I am going to look for a new blade. Guess I will do a 1/2” and be safe that it will fit the saw OK. The manual lists 3/4 inch as a possibility too, but it also lists 93 1/2 length and 105” length for my saw so not sure what I would have to do to use a 105” blade other than add a riser block, but I have only seen them in the 6” range. I would think the blade would then be around 100 inches. I had read once that a riser block can make the saw unstable…not sure if this is true. Kind of wondering if it would be a good addition to do it now so I can buy the right blade length as long as I have to buy a new blade anyway. Thoughts ??

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View horky's profile

horky

283 posts in 3531 days


#11 posted 11-26-2012 08:34 PM

I have used bllades from this outfit:
http://www.ellissaw.com/
they have great support on the phone and will talk thru what is best for you.

View treaterryan's profile

treaterryan

109 posts in 2888 days


#12 posted 11-26-2012 08:35 PM

6” riser block makes the new blade length +12” from the original (+6” on upside and +6” on downside), so the 105” makes sense if you have a riser block.

-- Ryan - Bethel Park, PA

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51458 posts in 4081 days


#13 posted 11-26-2012 08:43 PM

Sounds good…I never was very good in math…LOL. Thanks

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2789 posts in 2735 days


#14 posted 11-26-2012 11:18 PM

Riser block kit one of the most popular upgrades can buy. Honestly not a fan of riser blocks kits. Either they work right out of the box or they do not. Unless upping band saw motor horsepower what is the point anyway?
Having the right blades, proper set, TPI, widths for cutting task and controlling feed rate more important. 105” blades cost more than 93 ½” blades.

If going to do a lot of re-sawing might be wiser and cheaper to buy a bigger band saw to handle the task. Then can use either bi-metal or carbide tipped blades. While those blades more expensive they tend to last longer and cut cleaner longer.

-- Bill

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7804 posts in 3515 days


#15 posted 11-26-2012 11:35 PM

Wayne,
I don’t know how well the tension spring is set up on the 14” Powermatic, however my Rikon 14” came with a STOCK 5/8” x 6TPI blade. I switched to a 3/4” x 3TPI Timberwolf and have gotten it to work very well. FWIW, a 3/4” blade on my Rikon pretty much max’s this BS out.

Has anyone used a 3/4” blade with the 14” Powermatic?

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2789 posts in 2735 days


#16 posted 11-27-2012 03:05 PM

Can you use a ¾” wide blade on a 14” Powermatic band saw? I do not know about 14” Powermatic, but there are people that claim can use ¾” wide blades on other brands of 14” consumer grade saws. Conventional wisdom is 1/2” wide blade for 14” band saws because due to not wanting to exceed 0.025” blade thickness.

Well blade manufacturers may have come to the rescue with wider blades only 0.025 thick. Timber Wolf AS-S series, Olson’s All Pro, and Grizzly’s Carbide embedded blades (1/4”, 3/8” & ½” x 93 ½).

I have never used these blades but was asked about them and did not know anything until did some digging. Still question whether blades mentioned will work on all consumer grade band saws.

If have any experience with any of these blades please share.

-- Bill

View staryder's profile

staryder

174 posts in 2640 days


#17 posted 11-27-2012 03:41 PM

Snowy I 110% agree with RJ above the Woodslicer is definately the Ticket for preformance and longevity. I constantly am resawing figured hardwood that eat normal blades alive. I have had outstanding results with my Woodslicer and will not use anything else. I have thought about sliping over to a carbide tooth version but havent been able to justify the dollar difference considering how happy I am with Highlandwoodworking’s Woodslicer.
Just my opinion…. Rick….

-- Rick.... Fort Worth, Texas

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51458 posts in 4081 days


#18 posted 11-27-2012 06:35 PM

Thanks again everyone. I am going to start the hunt soon for a new blade. I probably will have to order it on line since I dont see the Woodslicer or Timberwolf at the stores around here.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8554 posts in 4249 days


#19 posted 11-27-2012 06:48 PM

while some 14” bandsaws can support the pressure required to tension a 3/4” blade, the culprit isn’t the saws construction when it comes to wide belts – but it is the smaller radius of the 14” wheels. the smaller radius on those wheels as compared to 18” saws forces the blades to bend tighter around the wheels creating additional stresses on the blades.

can you run a 3/4” blade on a 14” saw – mostly yes (depending on saw model), should you? .... I’m sticking to 1/2” blades.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View ward63's profile

ward63

363 posts in 3688 days


#20 posted 11-27-2012 07:39 PM

PurpLev, your right about “the smaller radius on those wheels as compared to 18” saws forces the blades to bend tighter around the wheels creating additional stresses on the blades”, but wrong about the saws construction when it comes to wide blades. They just can’t handle it-too weak!
My friend tried it with a Delta 14” 0.025” blade thickness, 1” wide, stellite-tipped blade. Crinkle, crack, snap, good-bye Delta!
My Ryobi 10” normally runs a 0.025” 2” wide, 2tpi, stellite-tipped blade, and rips anything that I feed it.
But if I over-tension the blade will crack.
Just my .02 cents

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3389 posts in 2774 days


#21 posted 11-27-2012 08:07 PM

SnowyRiver, I recommend you to check out Haltbar blades . Go to their website . They offer real awesome blades.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View woodworker59's profile

woodworker59

560 posts in 2802 days


#22 posted 11-27-2012 08:34 PM

I have a old Craftsman band saw that I picked up at an estate sale. Its set up to run anything up to 1 3/4” wide blades. never seen another one like it.. I use a 1 1/2” by 1.5 teeth per inch blade for re-sawing. I would agree with most of the above, you need to let the blade do the work, it needs ample time to cut and clean before it takes more wood. the 3/4” by 2 0r 3 teeth would be good, and a skip would also allow for better clean out.
I get my blades from blades direct, they can make any blade you want, width, teeth, hook length, etc..
I know that when I started to do re-sawing I needed to up the HP on my saw. I went out and got a 1.5hp motor and it seemed to make a big difference in its cutting ability and speed.
I agree with the Riser block comments concerning working right or not, some seem to work great right from the start and others need considerable manipulation to get right. Most times what you are re-sawing is under or right about the height capacity of your saw in stock form. its very rare that I ever need to re-saw stuff that’s over 6.5 inches wide, which is my saws max. I would agree that buying a new saw would be a better choice but only if you are planning on doing a lot of re-sawing in the future, big bite for just a few cuts.. just my thoughts..have fun and BE SAFE… Papa

-- Papa...

View tnwood's profile

tnwood

268 posts in 3687 days


#23 posted 11-27-2012 08:46 PM

I have the 18” Rikon and use the 1/2” Woodslicer bands. I’ve tried Timberwolf and had very bad luck with their weld quality leading to a lot of oscillation of the band in use. While the Woodslicers work well, they don’t have a long life in my experience and I’ve learned to remove them for tasks other than resawing.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8554 posts in 4249 days


#24 posted 11-28-2012 01:32 AM

ward – read my first line. the saw construction was in RE to the “while some 14” bandsaws can support the pressure required…” obviously not all 14” saws are rated to be able to support a 3/4” blade, but those that do, are not limited by their construction. good point though

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View ward63's profile

ward63

363 posts in 3688 days


#25 posted 11-28-2012 04:03 AM

Purplev, thank you for correcting me on that point, It just seems the 14” wheel would support a slightly thicker blade than a 10” would. woodworker59’s Craftsman bandsaw really surprised me! What lucky find!!!
I wonder which blade makers will guarantee their blades won’t crack or break on the weld or have any kinks.

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 3524 days


#26 posted 11-28-2012 12:28 PM

I have a GO555X running a woodslicer 3T 3/4 and have not had any problems,however, when I replace it I think I’ll go with a 1/2 4-5 T simply for a little smoother cut.

-- Life is good.

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51458 posts in 4081 days


#27 posted 12-28-2012 05:58 PM

Update on the modification. I bought the Powermatic riser block kit. It came with the block, a 105 inch blade, and some other parts necessary once the upper chassis is lifted. The blade it came with was the same as the blade that was on it when I bought it (6TPI) only 105 inches. I looked around here for a Timberwolf or Woodslicer, but couldnt find one in the stores. Ended up ordering a Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking. It should be here in a few days. Today I will put the block in and change out the rest of the parts so I am ready to put in the blade once it arrives.

Keep you posted.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6032 posts in 3414 days


#28 posted 12-28-2012 09:26 PM

A 1/2” 3tpi Olson hook blade works well resawing on my 14” Jet.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

3105 posts in 2887 days


#29 posted 12-28-2012 09:29 PM

I’ve seen beautiful resaws with all kinds of different blades. They’re cheap enough that you can buy a couple and experiment. The fewer TPI the better for resaw though.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51458 posts in 4081 days


#30 posted 12-28-2012 11:10 PM

Got the riser block in. Also added the other extended parts like the blade guards, guide bearing post, etc installed. Went pretty easy. Took less than an hour for all of it. Waiting on the blade now to give it a try. The blade I ordered was the 3/4 TPI Woodslicer. Its a 1/2 inch blade. After reading everyones posts about the 3/4 blade, I decided to do the 1/2 inch one even though the manual for the saw said 3/4 inch would work. Hopefully the blade will be here in the next couple of days and I will be all set.

More to come.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View crank49's profile

crank49

4032 posts in 3572 days


#31 posted 12-28-2012 11:58 PM

I just ordered me a new Wood-slicer resaw blade. As far as I know the only place to get them is Highland Woodworking in Atlanta.

Here’s a link:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/?gclid=CK-4y5ynvrQCFQsGnQod4gMA2Q

They are offering free shipping on orders of $75 or more. Enter coupon code FREESHIP1212.

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51458 posts in 4081 days


#32 posted 12-29-2012 04:05 AM

Yes Michael, I think you are right. I was watching a video on their site about the blade and it sounded like they either make it themselves, or have it made for them. Guess I will see how it works out. I just ordered one for now to see how it performs.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Wdwerker's profile

Wdwerker

333 posts in 2834 days


#33 posted 12-29-2012 04:46 AM

Only use it to resaw. They don’t cut curves well and dull quicker if you use them for general bandsaw work.
Have some scrap with an edge jointed to practice resawing before you try any special or expensive stock.
Make sure your table is extremely square to the blade and that you have support for the out feed of long stock.
Sounds like you are on the right path.
Good luck and be safe.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51458 posts in 4081 days


#34 posted 12-30-2012 08:16 PM

Thanks Wdwerker. Got it all working now. Re-adjusted the blade tension and guides. The blade is nice and square to the table. No blade flutter or anything. Everything went together just great. Took a couple of white oak boards 4/4 about 6 to 8 inches wide and gave it a try. It worked wonders. Thanks to all for all the guidance. What a difference the new blade makes. It cuts like butter. I was kind of amazed that it doesnt seem to have much drift either. Will have to keep an eye on it. Maybe with wider boards, or once the blade dulls a bit it will drift more, but it seems to follow the fence quite well. It will be nice now to make my own veneers for marquetry.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View AlanWS's profile

AlanWS

22 posts in 4159 days


#35 posted 01-04-2013 09:05 PM

Resawing requires a sharper blade than does most cutting, so once that blade starts giving problems, you can still use it for other things. There’s an excellent explanation of why this is true to be found here:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/resaw.html

-- Alan in Wisconsin

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