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View Brett Clark's profile

Poor me Two table saws, need a solution

by Brett Clark
posted 04-16-2012 01:32 AM


19 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

118162 posts in 4661 days


#1 posted 04-16-2012 01:38 AM

Looks like photobucket is the only way to go.

-- https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos

View WinterSun's profile

WinterSun

163 posts in 3694 days


#2 posted 04-16-2012 02:17 AM

I don’t see any link. Imgur is a great image sharing site and should work fine if you’re not able to attach images directly from your computer.

-- Rory // Milwaukee, WI

View RandyM68's profile

RandyM68

693 posts in 3402 days


#3 posted 04-16-2012 03:13 AM

Brett, you can upload pictures off of your computer. Hit the img button in the reply box. move the mouse around and a browse button will appear. If you don’t move the mouse, you won’t get browse, you’ll just see Insert an image from your computer (or from the web). When you move it, the rest of the window pops up. Just navigate to the folder that you have your pictures saved in. click on the picture you want and the info pops into the box. Hit insert this image, and your link is inserted at the top of your post. You can cut and paste the code to put the picture where ever you want it in the text. It is very easy to do, but they forgot to tell people how to do it. Using Photobucket is a pain in the butt, I can’t even remember my password anymore. A twin table saw sounds like a cool idea. So does a horizontal router.

-- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you. I'm sorry,thanks.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

3105 posts in 3370 days


#4 posted 04-16-2012 03:33 AM

I don’t know if it makes any difference, but I’d check the motor RPM and make sure it is close to the original Craftsman motor. It should say on the plate of the motor.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Boxguy's profile

Boxguy

2897 posts in 3351 days


#5 posted 04-16-2012 05:05 AM

Brett,

I am fortunate enough to have a large shop. So I have three table saws that I run. My Unisaw I use for general sizing of wood and 1/8 inch grooves. The other two are old craftsman saws that I set up with dado blades that fit the wood I use for splines and box bottoms.

If you have room you can run your two saws back to back and one will be the extension table for the other. That really works well for me. It doesn’t take up more room than another extension table would and it adds versatility. What I like most is not having set up time.

You absolutely must replace the fence on your Craftsman saws. Shop Fox makes a nice one that isn’t too expensive. Peachtree sells zero clearance inserts for your saw. It takes too much time to build one yourself by the time you rout out the edges.

I kept the one saw because it was my dad’s, but by the time you get a motor, fence, insert, belt, and new pulleys you will have quite a bit of money in a rebuild.

-- Big Al in IN

View Brett Clark's profile

Brett Clark

12 posts in 3354 days


#6 posted 04-16-2012 06:32 AM

This is the type I have, though no where near as nice when I refer to the nicer saw.

These last three are the one I recently purchased.

Boxguy, I have a lot of pulleys pulled out of an old barn. I’m sure I can find something to work. I really like the back-to-back saw ideal. I have heard I absolutely must replace these fences. That’s just something I really can’t afford at all right now. Any way to make something else, like from a rigid or bosch, work on this one?

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8418 posts in 4459 days


#7 posted 04-16-2012 12:36 PM

Keep your eyes peeled for a deal on an old Align-a-rip or Ridgid fence, or save your pennies and get a new Delta T2 fence for ~$150 shipped….very nice fence for the money. Maybe you could sell off some parts of the saw you don’t use to cover the fence cost.

That saw should clean up nicely with some elbow grease…..and mineral spirits with scotch brite, steel wool, or fine sandpaper.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2839 posts in 3380 days


#8 posted 04-16-2012 12:51 PM

I have a couple of the Craftsman saws made by King Seely, older than yours. Yours look like 1960s vintage. I don’t think you can bolt them together back to back as the motors hang out beyond the table, unless you put another piece in between. Here’s the table saw section of the OWWM site:

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=4

This guy has a nice setup – you could do two saws, one on each end.

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=10197

Go through the photos and there will be lots of interesting setups with folding outfeed tables, fence upgrades etc. The rail on your fence is all aluminum and prone to breakage. There are some purists who might buy your fence, but they are a dime a dozen so it won’t bring much. I bought an older new-in-box Delta Unifence to use when I get around to setting it up properly.

View Brett Clark's profile

Brett Clark

12 posts in 3354 days


#9 posted 04-16-2012 02:23 PM

You are right, it was late when I typed that and wasn’t really thinking about it. but it is a great idea. I haven’t looked up the serial #, but was told it should be in the ‘40’s sometime, that one up there isn’t mine. I pulled that off this site I think when I was looking at what I could do with mine. I’ll get some pics of mine up, it’s not in nearly as good shape. So there’s nothing I can do to help this fence for now? I haven’t figured out what all the problems were with the fences.

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2839 posts in 3380 days


#10 posted 04-16-2012 11:04 PM

There’s nothing hugely wrong with the fence, you just need to use a tape measure for adjustment on the older ones as the aluminum rail has no indicator marks. The older fences aren’t as parallel to the blade as newer high end fences without some checking and tweaking but they will work fine. It’s wood working, not heart surgery. And there’s something satisfying about refurbishing old equipment and customizing it to your needs and wants.

View Brett Clark's profile

Brett Clark

12 posts in 3354 days


#11 posted 04-16-2012 11:51 PM

There sure is. Any advice on tweaking the fences, or either shaving down the aluminum square to the blade or adding a sacrificial piece of wood?

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2839 posts in 3380 days


#12 posted 04-17-2012 01:04 PM

Sure, add a supplemental wood fence if you are doing things like rabbeting or whatever. The fence lock mechanism is just a long metal rod that pulls a piece tight against the back of the saw table and it may have some play and just needs a nut tightened. I go to the publication reprint section of owwm.org all the time – just look for your table saw’s part number (probably 103. ———) a ‘103’ prefix is King Seeley (Walker Turner made their earlier saws). Whatever you need to know about adjusting the fence or table trunions motor pulley sizes, lubrication if any, will be there.

View Stickbug's profile

Stickbug

3 posts in 1171 days


#13 posted 03-01-2018 03:31 AM

Hello and need help, I have a 113.22411 table saw from late 1940’s, it has grease cup and I need to replace bearings, these are open on one side type bearings and they accept grease from grease cylinder inside arbor support. Sears parts direct has original schematic and offer what appear to be a sealed bearing but do not offer dimensions. I anyone knows of an exact replacement or alternative part please let me know. Original bearing have number on them, I think: 7207-10 and Made in U.S.A. Greatly appreciated any ideas or parts site with a good replacement. I can be contacted at : [email protected]
Thanks

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

9214 posts in 3493 days


#14 posted 03-01-2018 03:42 AM

You cannot really put them back to back as they are contractors saws. But as someone else mentioned you could go side by side and have all cast iron top. Throw in some cast iron wings and you have a nice setup. Currently under construction in the shop is a cabinet for two Delta contractor saws. One will be for normal cuts the second one set up for dado work.

Work in progress:

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8563 posts in 3283 days


#15 posted 03-01-2018 03:53 AM

Original bearing have number on them, I think: 7207-10 and Made in U.S.A. Greatly appreciated any ideas or parts site with a good replacement.
- Stickbug

Those cross reference to 6202-5/8 bearings – standard 6202 with a 5/8” bore (the -10 denotes the 5/8” bore).
You can get sealed (6202LL-5/8) or shielded (6202ZZ-5/8). I’d go sealed but it’s your call. Give Lynne a call over at Accurate Bearing and she will hook you up (please read this first though).

Cheers,
Brad

PS: This thread was started in 2012, so if the OP hasn’t figured it out yet, he probably never will :)

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Stickbug's profile

Stickbug

3 posts in 1171 days


#16 posted 03-02-2018 04:11 AM

Hello Brad in FL, Thank you for your input I probably will go with the sealed bearings however what does the LL stand for in the suffix, couldn’t find the meaning. I heard japanese or german made bearings have tighter tolerances and are quieter, if any one would like to point me to a good supplier that would be appreciated. Again thiis is an awesome blog. I love dogs too x 2!

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8563 posts in 3283 days


#17 posted 03-02-2018 04:31 AM

LL = Sealed. Same as RS or 2RS
ZZ = Shielded

Different manufacturers use different nomenclature.

With the automated manufacturing process used today by the major bearing manufacturers, tolerances are basically the same across the board. It’s the cheap no-name Chinese bearings you need to shy away from. Nachi is a good brand and are reasonably priced. I already pointed you to Accurate Bearing. Lynne is great, but please read the ordering info I linked to above, and measure the bearings you have to verify they are the dimensions specified. Lynne will ask you if you have, and it’s a good safety measure to make sure you get what you need. You can go to other suppliers, but Accurate sells quality bearings and I’ve found that they usually have better prices than most of the on-line suppliers like VXB. Shipping is usually cheaper as well. Tell her you are one of the OWWM crowd – she likes that :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Stickbug's profile

Stickbug

3 posts in 1171 days


#18 posted 03-02-2018 04:32 AM

Ok Brad in FL, I missed the link, now I know LL means double seals by the Accurate Bearing pdf. Thanks again!

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8563 posts in 3283 days


#19 posted 03-02-2018 04:37 AM

For reference – I just ordered a batch of bearings from Accurate about a month ago for a C-man drill press I’m restoring, and needed two 6202LL-5/8 bearings. They were $6.38 a piece. A bit more expensive than standard 6202’s due to the non-standard bore size, but not unreasonable.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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