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View DangerDoug's profile

Help With Miter Cuts

by DangerDoug
posted 07-18-2021 10:39 AM


46 replies so far

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#1 posted 07-18-2021 11:11 AM

I was having the same issues with my Ridgid miter saw. I switched to a full kerf blade ( Amana 80 tooth AMT, 10 degree) and it helped quite a bit. Also, making positive hold downs. I then made my own jig from steel to hold crown so I only do a miter, not a compound which seemed to be the biggest problem. Last test cuts seemed much better.

Sliding/compound saws are inherently sloppier. I wish I never sold my original Delta simple miter as it was more accurate.

On the TS, best to make a sled with positive hold downs. Again, a full kerf blade helps. I run a Amana 60 tooth.

For picture frames and even face frame fine detail, I have a clone Lyons miter trimmer. It is how I get a edge perfect trim.

The other “fix” sometimes mentioned is expensive. Festool. Seems it is a little better. I am not ready to go there yet.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#2 posted 07-18-2021 11:24 AM

Oh yea, I also did a lot of work to make my table, ZCI, and fence on the Ridgid flat and square. The ZCI being a bit low allows deflection of your stock. I shimmed that sanded the original. Got a sheet of phenolic yesterday I am going to make a perfect one from. Every tiny bit adds up.

Unless you fork out the insane $1500 for a Kapex, you need to do a lot of tuning. To me, a $500 tool that is as out of square as they ALL come is inexcusable, but I guess they figure they are for rough carpentry. Only the Festool is sold as a cabinet tool.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#3 posted 07-18-2021 11:28 AM

THis sounds kind of like an ad, but actual good data and will help you tune your saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i92aFcwEWY

View Robert's profile

Robert

4747 posts in 2728 days


#4 posted 07-18-2021 12:10 PM

Sure it’s the cut vs the ply not flat?

That said, this is a job for a table saw, not a slider. Good blade or not, making a 12” cut on a slider in bevel mode is asking a lot.

You can screw a batten across the front and rear face of a ts sled and use clamp in spreader mode to keep ply flat while cutting.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View DangerDoug's profile

DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#5 posted 07-18-2021 12:19 PM

TVRgeek,

Thanks for this info, good to know others have had this issue – I was really hopping the Bosch would just make cutting miters fast/easy. Maybe these type of saw are more for crown molding projects.
The Bosch did fine on a straight 90 degree cut in the tough material.
There may be a caster-issue on the 45 degree setting, the back of the blade appeared slanted.
This is a new-ish Bosch saw btw.
Would a Kapex hold a straight line? – humm I’d want a 30 day return policy, if not.

Thanks again

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

8114 posts in 2068 days


#6 posted 07-18-2021 12:46 PM



.... Unless you fork out the insane $1500 for a Kapex, you need to do a lot of tuning. To me, a $500 tool that is as out of square as they ALL come is inexcusable, but I guess they figure they are for rough carpentry. Only the Festool is sold as a cabinet tool.
- tvrgeek

I’m insane and bought the Kapex and never questioned why my mitres were perfect... thanks tvrgeek for confirming my Fe$tool fetish is only in the minds of my detractors.

If I didn’t have the luxury of the Kapex, I’d have to fall back to my tablesaw sled customised for mitre cuts, as I never trusted my Hitachi slide compound.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View Rich's profile

Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#7 posted 07-18-2021 01:10 PM


I m insane and bought the Kapex and never questioned why my mitres were perfect...

- LittleBlackDuck

The only saw I would recommend with total confidence today is the Kapex. My Makita is a flawless performer, but if it ever dies, I’ll be going with the Festool.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

8114 posts in 2068 days


#8 posted 07-18-2021 01:20 PM


..... The only saw I would recommend with total confidence today is the Kapex. My Makita is a flawless performer, but if it ever dies, I ll be going with the Festool.
- Rich

Well I’ll be stoned (the igneous type)... you have the latest Fe$tool cordless trackSaw and not a Kapex... dare I call you a Philistine... though an upper class Philistine as you already own Fe$tool.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View Robert's profile

Robert

4747 posts in 2728 days


#9 posted 07-18-2021 02:55 PM

Wait, are we talking miters or bevels? BIG difference on a miter saw!!

Its a 12” wide piece of ply.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

2210 posts in 1427 days


#10 posted 07-18-2021 03:00 PM

If you have a track saw, why not just use it?

View northwoodsman's profile

northwoodsman

674 posts in 4994 days


#11 posted 07-18-2021 03:09 PM

I was also thinking that I would use my track saw on my Festool MFT or my table saw. FYI the larger the blade on a miter saw the more deflection you will get. A 12” sliding miter may not yield perfect results. If I ever get another sliding miter it will be the Milwaukee cordless 7-1/4”.

-- NorthWoodsMan

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

29742 posts in 3931 days


#12 posted 07-18-2021 03:19 PM

Hmmm, then there is the Olde School Ways….

What is nice about these….there be a pointy, little bolt that sticks through the fence, and prevents a part from sliding away from the saw.

No loud motor noises…..no big dust clouds….Cardio Workout…..Accurate right off the saw. No need to get out the Shooting Board….can cut any angle up to 60 degrees ( on the larger saws)

Mine uses a 28” long saw….does not take very long to cut through 1/4” of Ash….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

2161 posts in 974 days


#13 posted 07-18-2021 03:31 PM



Hmmm, then there is the Olde School Ways….

What is nice about these….there be a pointy, little bolt that sticks through the fence, and prevents a part from sliding away from the saw.

No loud motor noises…..no big dust clouds….Cardio Workout…..Accurate right off the saw. No need to get out the Shooting Board….can cut any angle up to 60 degrees ( on the larger saws)

Mine uses a 28” long saw….does not take very long to cut through 1/4” of Ash….

- bandit571


Will that cut a 12” wide piece?

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

1303 posts in 3482 days


#14 posted 07-18-2021 04:22 PM

I use a 45° shooting board and a LA Jack plane to tune things up. Works every time.

-- Jerry

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#15 posted 07-18-2021 04:36 PM

Todays effort to make my miter saw better:

I bought some hold down that fir a DeWalt ( $15 for two, take that KAPEX for $95 each!)
Had to grind the taper down about a mm to match the Ridgid holes. Only work from the front, but that may help.

Made a ZCI out of phenolic that is dead level and rigid.

A bit of foil tape and the fence is closer to 90 degrees. Did some filing, but it is just a poor design to start with.

Now to a crown project and see how it did.

View Ed Weber's profile

Ed Weber

80 posts in 130 days


#16 posted 07-18-2021 05:14 PM

You’re cutting a miter on a SCMS.
The cut isn’t straight.
I doubt the saw tracking is curved
Even if the wood is bent, the cut should be straight.
Thin kerf blades can flex. Dull thin kerf blades can flex even more. Improperly sharpened, etc.
Personally, if possible I would try a quality blade designed for miter saws and RAS’s. These blades have a negative hook angle and cut much better than standard blades in these applications.
that’s my two cents

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#17 posted 07-18-2021 09:07 PM



You re cutting a miter on a SCMS.
The cut isn t straight.
I doubt the saw tracking is curved
Even if the wood is bent, the cut should be straight.
Thin kerf blades can flex. Dull thin kerf blades can flex even more. Improperly sharpened, etc.
Personally, if possible I would try a quality blade designed for miter saws and RAS s. These blades have a negative hook angle and cut much better than standard blades in these applications.
that s my two cents

- Ed Weber

The hook angle has been discussed and tested a lot and found not to really be of consequence. Theory says safer, but practice says not needed. I have never had a lift problem. FWIW, the Amana blade I have is recommended for miters and RAS. Maybe I would not push it with a 15 degree though.

Yes, flex, blade, wood, saw, something, DOES make for curved miters. This is a common problem when making compound cuts on most miter saws. The Festool folks claim not on theirs. If you search the WEB, you find a lot of discussion, but no solid “this is it” so I am attempting every fix I can muster.

BTW, every one of the 6 screw bosses under my throat plate were milled to slightly different depths. I had to shave with a chisel. The phenolic sheet was not as perfect as I expected requiring a few thou sanding.

Anyway, with my hold-downs and tuning so far, I can slice .3mm pieces off repeatedly in a strait cut. Hold downs seem to help more than one might think. Makes me think a layer of 800 or even 1200 grit on the table and fence would be a big improvement.

My center table is flat, as is the right wing. I have a layer of foil tape on the left wing to make it level.
My saw is not a slider, so in theory it should be more rigid. Instead, it is just a Ridgid. But there is a big gap from $400 to $1500 for a Kapex. I have seen the same issues with the Bosch, Dewalt, Delta, Metabo… so it is not just an example of a poor tool. Glad I did not spring for the Bosh. Nifty design, but still not rigid.

I have a list of mods for dust control up my sleeve. If any work, I’ll post them.

View DangerDoug's profile

DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#18 posted 07-18-2021 11:39 PM

Robert,
That was my inferred question, maybe this is too much to ask out of a 12” slider.
Especially with the thin blade.
I do have a couple of sleds for the T-saw, one is made from 24” x 24” plywood with a 3/4” steel-bar from an old Table Saw Miter Gauge; which works better than it sounds. [it slides perfectly]
Lifting is an issue, I use at least 1 – 8 pound window weight on the top edge.

I have a similar project right behind this one—12” long, 45degree bevel cuts, I’ll use the table saw this time.

Thanks!


Sure it’s the cut vs the ply not flat?

That said, this is a job for a table saw, not a slider. Good blade or not, making a 12” cut on a slider in bevel mode is asking a lot.

You can screw a batten across the front and rear face of a ts sled and use clamp in spreader mode to keep ply flat while cutting.

- Robert


Sure it’s the cut vs the ply not flat?

That said, this is a job for a table saw, not a slider. Good blade or not, making a 12” cut on a slider in bevel mode is asking a lot.

You can screw a batten across the front and rear face of a ts sled and use clamp in spreader mode to keep ply flat while cutting.

- Robert


View Rich's profile

Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#19 posted 07-19-2021 12:42 AM

Never mind.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#20 posted 07-19-2021 08:11 PM

Rich, Little Black Duck, TVRgeek,

Thanks for the info on the Kapex and sawblades, my tool budget is a little light right now. I like the robust sliders on it. It a shame about the Bosch, not what I thought it was, but stuck with now I guess, unless, I sell it at a 50% loss.

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

8114 posts in 2068 days


#21 posted 07-19-2021 10:18 PM


... Thanks for the info on the Kapex and sawblades, my tool budget is a little light right now. I like the robust sliders on it….
- DangerDoug

Fully understand the battle with budgets Danger.. probably a well designed TS sled would be your best option.

I mentioned the Kapex as sometimes exceeding budgets, with SWMBO’s approval after grovelling of course, sometimes justifies the extra shekels for -”less” hassle free operations. People often forget that workarounds take time and time is money wasted.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

2161 posts in 974 days


#22 posted 07-20-2021 12:50 AM


The hook angle has been discussed and tested a lot and found not to really be of consequence. Theory says safer, but practice says not needed. I have never had a lift problem. FWIW, the Amana blade I have is recommended for miters and RAS. Maybe I would not push it with a 15 degree though.

- tvrgeek


Hook angle is NOT about lifting.

It’s about self feeding into the material.
The more negative hook on the tooth, the less aggressive it feeds.

Put a 10-15 positive hook blade on your radial arm saw and you better be careful the blade doesn’t run you over.

To say it’s not really of consequence is untruthful and misleading to lessor experienced woodworkers.
Google saw tip angles explained and learn something.

Your welcome Rich.

View Rich's profile

Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#23 posted 07-20-2021 12:59 AM


Your welcome Rich.

- LeeRoyMan

You summed it up nicely, LeeRoy. Much misinformation in this thread. Maybe LJ should implement Facebook-type misinformation alerts.

“Thin kerf blades are your friend. Click here to learn why.”

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Ed Weber's profile

Ed Weber

80 posts in 130 days


#24 posted 07-20-2021 01:27 AM

I’m going to have to disagree a bit with some of what’s been said.
On a standard rail type SCMS, the saw head rides on the rails straight no matter what type of cut you’re making.
Some people seem to been saying a certain type of cut is to blame for the curvature.If the saw travels straight and the wood is secured, then it has to be the blade
If you pull the saw out, plunge and push back toward the fence, letting the blade do the work, not forcing it, every cut should be the same, miter, straight or bevel. As far as the blade knows, you’re always cutting a straight line.
Cutting a large piece like the OP has is always going to be partially a plunge cut, this is why it’s important to always use the same pull plunge push method so that there is the least amount of chance of the blade flexing in the cut.
Negative hook angle blades do not pull the wood to the fence or the head of the saw toward the operator with anywhere near the force as a positive hook angled blade, which is their intent. Anyone who has ever used a RAS can appreciate this.
JMHO

View Rich's profile

Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#25 posted 07-20-2021 01:34 AM


On a standard rail type SCMS, the saw head rides on the rails straight no matter what type of cut you re making

- Ed Weber

The OP’s Bosch doesn’t have rails. Theirs is what they call Axial-Glide. Totally different animal. I realize you were referring to standard rail-type saws, and I agree with what you wrote concerning them, but that’s not applicable here.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

8114 posts in 2068 days


#26 posted 07-20-2021 07:34 AM



The OP s Bosch doesn t have rails. Theirs is what they call Axial-Glide. Totally different animal. ...
- Rich

Interesting point Rich, I’ve often drooled over the Bos¢h’s smooth action. Just that mechanism could be a contributing factor… especially with worn or loose parts…

However, not being technically minded, me commenting would be like comparing steel capped boots with flip-flops. Being a flip-flop tragic, I may be biased.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View Ed Weber's profile

Ed Weber

80 posts in 130 days


#27 posted 07-20-2021 02:24 PM

At least I’m not totally crazy, just missed where he said it was a glider.
But, I stick with my assessment. If the glide mechanism is still tracking true (it would take a lot for this to fail) with no play, the only thing left and the weak link is the blade. With the glide, you would have to have half a dozen bearings all go bad to have enough play in the mechanism to make a curved cut in a 12” span.
A blade flexing sideways can happen in a single plunge.

View Rich's profile

Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#28 posted 07-20-2021 02:51 PM


Interesting point Rich, I ve often drooled over the Bos¢h s smooth action. Just that mechanism could be a contributing factor… especially with worn or loose parts…

- LittleBlackDuck

From my casual observations on here I see a wide range of opinions on the Bosch. Some swear by it and others, like this one, have problems.

I have never used the saw, so I can’t offer anything more about it, but I wonder sometimes how much the saw quality from the factory varies from unit to unit, and how much is based on human factors. In other words, is the saw universally mediocre and the lovers of it just don’t know what a good cut is; or is the saw awesome and the folks with issues just haven’t set it up properly and/or aren’t using it correctly?

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

8114 posts in 2068 days


#29 posted 07-20-2021 02:52 PM



At least I m not totally crazy…..
- Ed Weber

Well I am,

buy a Kapex and you’ll be so screwed up by being poor that you won’t worry about the bow.

Personally there has been enough good, legitimate replies to let this duck duck out and leave you guys to enjoy your sanity.

Keep safe.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View northwoodsman's profile

northwoodsman

674 posts in 4994 days


#30 posted 07-20-2021 06:46 PM

When you say you can see light through the center of the miter are you talking 1/16”, 1/32” inch, 1/64”, 1/128” or .003”? Don’t forget when you match the two miter cuts up the gap you see is double what the error actually is. Hit the high points with 2-3 passes of a sanding block and they “gap” will go away.

-- NorthWoodsMan

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

8114 posts in 2068 days


#31 posted 07-20-2021 09:30 PM



I have never used the saw, so I can t offer anything more about it, but I wonder sometimes how much the saw quality from the factory varies from unit to unit, and how much is based on human factors. In other words, is the saw universally mediocre and the lovers of it just don t know what a good cut is; or is the saw awesome and the folks with issues just haven t set it up properly and/or aren t using it correctly?

- Rich


I’ve only played with the Bos¢h in the shops and made pretend cuts while making buzzing sounds as I admired that unique smooth movement.
I have a Hitachi Slide Compound Mitre Saw
and swore by it, much like the Bos¢h owners, till I bought the Kapex... I have both side by side and comparison is like chalk and cheese. Though the cut capacity of the Hitachi is greater, it’s the Kapex that I always use for mitres (or TS sled)... the Hitachi is the backup if I need a 90° cut when using the Kapex for mitres.

Nevertheless, this bragging about other saws is not helping Danger’ with his dilema… sorry for this off topic prattle.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

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DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#32 posted 07-31-2021 09:24 AM

Axial-Glide/Rails got it, thanks.
Haven’t made my mind up on the Bosch yet, it is working well as a 90degree cutoff saw.
Here’s the blade: MAKITA 12” X 1” 100T MICRO POLISHED MITER SAW BLADE, A-93734 [sale price $45]
I bought the 10” version for the T-saw two years ago for crosscutting veneer plywood, it was amazing value for $33: Makita A-93681 10-Inch 80 Tooth Micro Polished Mitersaw Blade
Obviously a bargain-shopper when it comes to saw blades.

NorthWoodsMan, Sanding the bevel for a better fit, thank you – I’ll try that next time

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

8906 posts in 1822 days


#33 posted 07-31-2021 10:57 AM


This is not about cutting square or chipping,

I was getting a cup in the miters.

- DangerDoug

Just reading this I think you are experiencing what is known as creep. It’s movement of the piece when cutting across the grain where the stock is able to move, it will, and because the lead edge of a round blade is, well round, it will make a cup shaped cut.

Clamp your work down tightly, and try another cut, if it goes away you now know why. This is true of both sled miters on a TS, using just a miter gauge, or longer miters on a chop saw. If you allow movement you’ll get a cup cut.

-- Think safe, be safe

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DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#34 posted 07-31-2021 02:39 PM

That’s a thought, I did have the Bosch-clamp on the workpiece, well maybe not every time.
Similar project coming up soon, I’ll dig into this a little deeper.

Thanks

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

29742 posts in 3931 days


#35 posted 08-01-2021 02:09 PM

Ah yes, SPAM for Breakfast, on a Sunday Morn….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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gdaveg

367 posts in 450 days


#36 posted 08-01-2021 02:16 PM

If the BB is warped this will create mitres that are not perfect. Even if they are clamped flat the wood will rebound when clamps are released.

I have built a special Mitre Sled based on the YouTube video by William Ng. I probably watched it 4 or 5 times and took notes. Here is a link to his video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgVthkUE4AU

A link to my sled build is below:

https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/419698

But if the stock is not flat you will be beating your head against a wall.

-- Dave, Vancouver, WA & Tucson, AZ

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DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#37 posted 08-08-2021 10:02 AM

This project is at the finisher now, which ok with me [im done with chemicals, storing chemicals, etc.]
Starting the next build—I think the issue is the motor/sawblade are off-axis i.e. the assembly has a angle that is not supposed to be there. When the motor/sawblade are on a 45degree bevel [right] the blade is cutting with the front teeth, and there is a gap in the at the back of the blade.
I don’t think there is adjustment for the whole motor assembly.

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DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#38 posted 08-14-2021 08:47 AM

Had better results with a antique B&D/DeWalt 12” radial-arm ($100 yard sale find)
Used two pony-clamps and 3-8lb weights, which worked fine.

I haven’t given up on the Bosch/Makita[blade], it might have something to do with pushing the large blade all the way down during the cut. There’s a depth-level; going to make two passes, one light cut and then the full cut.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#39 posted 08-14-2021 10:16 AM

My saw is not a slider:
Full kerf blade reduced my cupping.
Better clamping reduced my cupping.
Clamped in a jig so I only cut a miter, not compound, gave me acceptable results for crown molding. Finally.

I have one more mod. Going to put some 800 grit paper on my saw bed for even better grip.

The Bosch and Delta saws are well known to be sloppier than the best of the rod-based. Convenient and pretty cool, but sloppier. I had hopes for the new Makita front slide, but reviews seem to suggest it is far worse then their older rear slide saw. That leaves the DeWalt as the top rear slide conventional carpentry tool and the Kaypex as the closest thing to a woodworking tool.

FWIW, The Kapex is out of stock and will be for some time.

View Rich's profile

Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#40 posted 08-14-2021 11:03 PM


FWIW, The Kapex is out of stock and will be for some time.

- tvrgeek

Out of stock? I guess my local Woodcraft store didn’t get the memo. I took this photo this morning.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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GR8HUNTER

9000 posts in 1960 days


#41 posted 08-14-2021 11:53 PM


FWIW, The Kapex is out of stock and will be for some time.

- tvrgeek

Out of stock? I guess my local Woodcraft store didn t get the memo. I took this photo this morning.

- Rich


you cant count on the internet for stock items you have to call the store :<))))))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN :<))

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Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#42 posted 08-15-2021 03:38 AM


you cant count on the internet for stock items you have to call the store :<))))))

- GR8HUNTER

While at Woodcraft, I asked at the counter if I could order a Kapex and was told there were 73 units available in the warehouse. Pretty much blows the “out of stock and will be for some time” narrative out of the water.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View xedos's profile

xedos

433 posts in 548 days


#43 posted 08-17-2021 03:28 AM

Not everyone has access to a local woodcraft and some just don’t want to trust a big heavy tool like that to the ups or fed ex.

And while woodcraft may have 73 in their warehouse for all their stores, Rockler is saying they’re out until mid Oct. , as are a lot of local, small purveyors.

So , while a kapex might be had in you’re narrow section of the republic, others may not be as fortunate with TTS’s allocation. Which will look to them as unavailable for some time. Your closed minded view is not the only perspective here.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

8906 posts in 1822 days


#44 posted 08-17-2021 03:38 AM



Not everyone has access to a local woodcraft and some just don’t want to trust a big heavy tool like that to the ups or fed ex.

And while woodcraft may have 73 in their warehouse for all their stores, Rockler is saying they’re out until mid Oct. , as are a lot of local, small purveyors.

So , while a kapex might be had in you’re narrow section of the republic, others may not be as fortunate with TTS’s allocation. Which will look to them as unavailable for some time. Your closed minded view is not the only perspective here.

- xedos

Much misinformation in this thread. Maybe LJ should implement Facebook-type misinformation alerts.

- Rich

BAZINGA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

xedos, well said.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Rich's profile

Rich

7469 posts in 1837 days


#45 posted 08-17-2021 04:04 AM


Not everyone has access to a local woodcraft and some just don’t want to trust a big heavy tool like that to the ups or fed ex.

And while woodcraft may have 73 in their warehouse for all their stores, Rockler is saying they’re out until mid Oct. , as are a lot of local, small purveyors.

- xedos

I think you’re missing the big picture here…

You said they were unavailable and would be for some time. Woodcraft has them in their warehouse. You were wrong. Period.

It doesn’t matter what small local purveyors can offer, nor does it matter what Rockler has. Anyone can order a Kapex from the Woodcraft web site. Your scare tactics about FEDEX and UPS are a joke. If it’s damaged during shipment, you can get it replaced.

I guess you missed the mark again. Feel free to keep trying though.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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DangerDoug

105 posts in 2894 days


#46 posted 08-17-2021 08:58 AM

Thank you for the intel on the Kapex, not sure that will help if the issue is something else e.g. the 12” bevel-cut is that the board is rocking (while cutting). The antique radial did ok, cut the bevel for smaller pieces on the table saw, but limited to about 14” long since it is a left tilt saw.

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