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View Rrippeon's profile

Bridgewood jointer Bw6j vs bw6r?

by Rrippeon
posted 07-12-2020 07:52 PM


19 replies so far

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6018 posts in 3167 days


#1 posted 07-12-2020 09:48 PM

Is that a kitchen blender?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Rrippeon's profile

Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#2 posted 07-12-2020 09:50 PM

Its a jointer…

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3358 posts in 2656 days


#3 posted 07-12-2020 10:24 PM

Why do you need a Shelix. Have you been using straight knifes and facing difficult woods.

-- Aj

View Rrippeon's profile

Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#4 posted 07-12-2020 10:29 PM

Because I want to make better use of a small powered motor. And the finish is better and blade life is like 4x as long.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3358 posts in 2656 days


#5 posted 07-12-2020 10:39 PM

Are you 100 percent sure the tables are coplaner with the heads journals. If not the head will need to be shimmed in line with the tables. If you cannot shim the head what is your plan.
With straight knives we set them in plane with the outfeed.
Many go down this path without fully understanding how to set jointer knives or they can use good hhs. Some will drag dirty wood over their machines and wonder why the knives don’t last. The last consideration is Shelix heads take more power then sharp hss. Not just because of the carbide not being sharper but the 30 degree face bevel on the insert actually scraps out little bits of wood.
It’s your money and your choice just trying to help a brother out.:)
Good Luck

-- Aj

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Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#6 posted 07-12-2020 10:43 PM

I will respectfully disagree with the more power needed on a shelix. The surface area in contact with a board with straight knives is much greater than with a helix head. Less contact at once = less drag; less power required. And yes the tables are coplaner.

Just really need to know the difference in the 6r vs 6j. There is little to no info on the differences. Thanks -Roger

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3358 posts in 2656 days


#7 posted 07-12-2020 10:57 PM

Nothing like learning the hard way. Very rarely do we get anyone asking about bridge wood jointers.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

3621 posts in 2352 days


#8 posted 07-12-2020 11:02 PM

Because I want to make better use of a small powered motor.
- Rrippeon

Sorry but a small motor will have MORE difficulty with helical head.

A helical head typically draws more power than straight blade head, for same depth of cut.
There are many posts online regarding the topic, such as:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/225785 note post #4.

There are ton of other posts on topic as well. Can even find some 15” planer owners who measured the increased power.

IME – You will want a 1hp motor for 6” helical head jointer. Less and you will have take really small cuts on full width face jointing. The cut quality goes down when motor is overloaded and head speed reduces, which negates the reason you want one.

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#9 posted 07-12-2020 11:25 PM

It has a 1HP motor on it. Id prefer a larger motor, when this one croaks, i’ll upgrade the motor.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

3621 posts in 2352 days


#10 posted 07-12-2020 11:56 PM

Id prefer a larger motor, when this one croaks, i ll upgrade the motor.
- Rrippeon

LOL, Thanks for laugh.

Not trying to start anything, but never understood how folks ‘croak’ a motor in a home shop?

Have never had a motor completely DIE in my home shop in 40 years. Motors do need maintenance?
Usually with; a $20 set of bearings, a $10 capacitor, and/or $10 switch; the problem is fixed for another 10-15 years. Still have 70+ yr old motor purring along fine. Maintenance is whole lot cheaper than spending hundreds for a new motor.
Only in the production factories I supported would motors run till they caught fire, and then would need to replace the poor abused smoking hulk of a motor.

IMHO – You won’t NEED more power.
Besides, it is really hard to use a 6” jointer enough hours per day with too much cut depth, accepting a lousy cut finish; that you burn out a 1HP motor. Unless you intentionally try to burn the motor, blades, and belts on the tool? :)

WANT .vs. NEED are funny things in home shop. BTDTGTTS

Best luck with plans, and please enjoy your new tool.

And just noticed your new here:
Welcome to LumberJocks!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View Rrippeon's profile

Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#11 posted 07-13-2020 12:02 AM

Look I dont need anyone’s advice here. I am mechanically inclined, I know how motors work and how resistance works. This 1HP motor is over 25 years old. Windings go bad, caps go bad, etc.. I asked for a specific answer, not people’s opinions on why I need a certain cutter head or not. If you do not have the answer to my question. Then dont respond.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

3621 posts in 2352 days


#12 posted 07-13-2020 01:41 AM

Have you tried calling CH Wilke in NY?
https://chwilke.com

Wilke specified and imported the Bridgewood brand from Asia for many years. They should know the difference. Great people to deal with.

It’s been a number of years since I called them, but way back when the parts department still supported parts for some Bridgewood tools. They carry General International and Jet tools made by same mfg that made Bridgewood tools and offered me some interchangeable parts for Bridgewood 15” planer.

Cheers!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View Rrippeon's profile

Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#13 posted 07-13-2020 01:51 AM

Appreciated! I had looked on their website but nothing having to do with bridgewood even shows up anymore. Ill have to give em a call tomorrow. Thanks!

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6018 posts in 3167 days


#14 posted 07-13-2020 01:56 AM

I don’t know the difference between the bw6j and 6r but I’d wager the people who manufacture the Shelix head would/should know. I’d call the company I’m interested in buying a head from and ask them.

In my unsolicited opinion a jointer is not a finish machine, its a dimensioning tool . I wouldn’t worry to much about the finish of the cut too much. The surface still need to be sanded, scraped anyway.

I have read in many places that the Shelix heads take more power. Here again the smart money may be to ask the manufacturer you plan on buying from.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Rrippeon's profile

Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#15 posted 07-13-2020 02:00 AM

I have also sent byrd an email. I have shadowed this forum as well as another for quite a while. People here seem to have knowledge on older machines, which is why I asked here. Worst case ill retrofit the cutter head, like I did with the roller bearing upgrades I did on my BW bandsaw. More than likely itll end up working with a grizzly head.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6018 posts in 3167 days


#16 posted 07-13-2020 02:32 AM


I have also sent byrd an email. I have shadowed this forum as well as another for quite a while. People here seem to have knowledge on older machines, which is why I asked here. Worst case ill retrofit the cutter head, like I did with the roller bearing upgrades I did on my BW bandsaw. More than likely itll end up working with a grizzly head.

- Rrippeon


Does you BW6J have hand wheels to adjust the beds. How about posting a photo of your machine.

I found this sight that list a 6J but you have to join and I don’t know what all information would be there.

http://www.usedprice.com/items/power-tool/bridgewod/jointer/bw-6j-382145.html

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Rrippeon's profile

Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#17 posted 07-13-2020 02:36 AM

AlaskaGuy, Yes it does. Pics below.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3358 posts in 2656 days


#18 posted 07-13-2020 02:43 AM

The Hermance helix head is reported to be better then the Bryd Shelix. https://www.hermance.com/Industrial/HelixHead-Cutterheads
I’m sure you already know the answer is to take out the bridge wood head and send it.
I had a 8 inch jointer with a bryd head and sold it after 4 or 5 years. I bought a planer with a insert head.
You don’t have to be so defensive it’s not a personal attack we give unsolicited advise a lot.
The Captain didn’t deserve your post #11. He’s very knowledgeable and helpful
Good Luck

-- Aj

View Rrippeon's profile

Rrippeon

10 posts in 96 days


#19 posted 07-13-2020 02:50 AM

Appreciate the link. Never heard of the brand before. If I have to, yes, I will pull the head to have one made.

As far as advice, again, I did not ask for it. It usually is appreciated, but when someone comments thanks for the laugh and whats perceived as snyde remarks. Uncalled for.

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