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Can someone diagnose this Bandsaw?

by StDane
posted 03-31-2020 11:47 PM


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57 replies

57 replies so far

View jkm312's profile

jkm312

23 posts in 180 days


#1 posted 04-01-2020 12:17 AM

Check to make sure your blade is centered on your wheels and they are co planer. The picture 2nd from the bottom is centered, the bottom picture the blade is not by the looks of it. You will need a straight edge you know is straight or perhaps an aluminum level that hasn’t been dropped yet and dinged up the corner. Don’t ask me how I know about that one.

If you google Alex Snodgrass you will find some you tube videos that will teach you a lot about tuning band saws.

Last bit of advice. Relax, it’s a machine and they all need care from time to time. You got this.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#2 posted 04-01-2020 12:27 AM

Hard to tell which picture is of the top or bottom wheel. The bottom picture is extremely not right regardless if it’s the top or bottom wheel. Is the bottom picture your upper wheel? The wheels need to be parallel but don’t need to be co-planer but that is very extreme. Something is not right.

Start with a sharp blade and the Snodgrass tune-up including the guides then report back. As Snodgrass says, remove the table and back the guides off before mounting the blade. The BS is probably the most complex tool to set up as there are so many variables. Is the blade dull?

I can think of a few causes. Show us a picture of the saw. Can you tension the blade properly? Does the top wheel attach to one of these? They are usually pot metal and break easily.


Check to make sure your blade is centered on your wheels and they are co planer.

- jkm312

Sorry but no, that is not the case and Snodgrass says so in his video. They do not need to be co-planer. Trust me on this.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Aj2

3096 posts in 2575 days


#3 posted 04-01-2020 12:50 AM

That looks like the way a dull blade cuts. If that’s a woodslicer blade they dull pretty fast esp if your wood is wet or the exotic nasty stuff.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8097 posts in 2976 days


#4 posted 04-01-2020 01:08 AM


- StDane

If that is your upper wheel, your tracking is way off.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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TheSnekkerShow

6 posts in 162 days


#5 posted 04-01-2020 01:10 AM

If the blade tracks fine before you start cutting, but starts moving hard to one side after you start cutting, it’s likely a blade issue. It’s tough to see if there’s any pitch buildup, but that will cause the blade to twist because the pitch hits the wood before the side of the tooth. Since it’s a set-tooth steel blade, they’re also very sensitive to hitting anything metal on the sides because it ruins the set.

Have you aligned your fence to the blade yet? If so you could test with a thin piece of plywood or MDF to verify setup. If your fence is perfectly aligned to the blade and you cut in slowly only an inch or so before stopping the saw and not moving the wood, the back of the blade should not touch either side of the kerf.

I nearly ruined a $140 carbide-tipped Laguna Resaw King by starting the saw before lifting the tensioner, and then I stepped on the brake in a less-than-ideal reaction. The brake caused the blade to slip off the wheel and scrape against the side of the table, and I had to send it back for sharpening to get it to track right again.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#6 posted 04-01-2020 01:35 AM

If that is your upper wheel, your tracking is way off.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


+1 Why is it tracked so far back on the wheel? Before you do anything center the blade or the gullet on that wheel. I assumed the bottom pic was the bottom wheel but probably not.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Foghorn's profile

Foghorn

519 posts in 164 days


#7 posted 04-01-2020 01:36 AM


Check to make sure your blade is centered on your wheels and they are co planer. The picture 2nd from the bottom is centered, the bottom picture the blade is not by the looks of it. You will need a straight edge you know is straight or perhaps an aluminum level that hasn t been dropped yet and dinged up the corner. Don t ask me how I know about that one.

If you google Alex Snodgrass you will find some you tube videos that will teach you a lot about tuning band saws.

Last bit of advice. Relax, it s a machine and they all need care from time to time. You got this.

- jkm312

I used to subscribe to co-planer as well until seeing both the Michael Fortune and Snodgrass tips. They both say it’s not required and a little offset is actually a benefit. Edit: Andybb already covered it. :)

-- Darrel

View CaptainKlutz's profile (online now)

CaptainKlutz

3200 posts in 2272 days


#8 posted 04-01-2020 02:02 AM

+1 dull blade(s)?

+1 AndyBB comments on pivot bracket in tension assembly.

Check the location of blade on the top wheel. If should be same on front and back, relative to the table.
Have seen where the casting holding the pivot pin on tensioner broke and the wheel was tilted slightly. It should be same distance to sheet metal cover on both side. The bracket can rest on the lower housing, which makes the failed pivot bracket hard to see; until you use enough tension to break the bracket all they way.

Best Luck!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#9 posted 04-01-2020 02:05 AM



The bracket can rest on the lower housing, which makes the failed pivot bracket hard to see; until you use enough tension to break the bracket all the way.

- CaptainKlutz

+1 Ask me how I know.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View StDane's profile

StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#10 posted 04-01-2020 07:09 PM

Thanks everyone for the replies, but here is the problem. I have done literally everything suggested, except buy new blades. The blade in the saw now is new and clean and sharp. The problem first started with a different, also fairly new and clean blade.

One thing I have noted is that when the top bearings are lowered to just an inch or so it will cut straight, but anything higher than that and it deflects the instant the blade hits the wood. I can’t adjust one side bearing any closer, and it is about 3/32 away from the blade, on the side that the blade deflects to. Again, with a straight-on cut I would not think this would matter. Resawing is one of the big reasons I got a band saw.

Do I need new guides?

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

989 posts in 2427 days


#11 posted 04-01-2020 07:26 PM

Test to see if the guide post stays in line. Maybe some dust got in there and is moving the guide post.
It should be able to cut a straight line with the side guides backed out. Of course, never touching the rear bearing. I follow the advice of moving my blade back. (Snodgrass) Not quite centering the gullets, but further back and it made a world of difference for me.

If this new blade was run and hit a guide, the set will be off and it will not cut a line. I am no pro on a BS, but I made that mistake. Fortunately a $9 Bosch band.

Does the band feel tight? I run my guides about half an inch above my cut. No more.

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#12 posted 04-01-2020 07:29 PM

As a rule of thumb you should be able to adjust your guides so they are the thickness of a dollar bill away from the blade.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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bmerrill

105 posts in 851 days


#13 posted 04-01-2020 07:40 PM

Post some pictures of the top and bottom guides.

-- You are not told the truth, you have to learn the truth.

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splintergroup

3798 posts in 2000 days


#14 posted 04-01-2020 07:45 PM

Look closely at your blade teeth. If they ever came in contact with the guide, it could have removed or reduced the tooth set on one side (Also could happen if the blade came off the wheel rubber and made contact with the steel rim).

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3096 posts in 2575 days


#15 posted 04-01-2020 07:58 PM

I still say it’s the blade.

-- Aj

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#16 posted 04-01-2020 08:17 PM



I still say it’s the blade.

- Aj2


And I’m still wondering why the blade is tracking almost off the back end of the upper wheel. That can’t be right.

What happens when you center the blade on the upper wheel?

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View StDane's profile

StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#17 posted 04-01-2020 08:39 PM

Andybb. I have tried the blade in the center and with the gullets centered, and just to test the premise I have moved it to just about every location. When I center it on the top wheel it is lined up with the the bottom wheel (both in center) Makes no diff

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

989 posts in 2427 days


#18 posted 04-01-2020 08:42 PM

Andy,
Have you watched the Snodgrass videos? Ever tried it? I did, and I did and only after moving my blade back could I cut dead true lines parallel with the table. I can cut 3 inch oak with the side guides backed out. We are talking a 10 inch Delta POS here! Of course, it was hopeless until I bought a good blade. My lower wheel is not adjustable. I now understand, guides are for curves. Not strait cuts.

If blade is forward, will track to the right. If too far back, will track to the left.
If the set got damaged, you are screwed.

Dan,
Did this start all of a sudden? Build up over time? What changed?

I still say it’s the blade.

- Aj2

And I m still wondering why the blade is tracking almost off the back end of the upper wheel. That can t be right.

What happens when you center the blade on the upper wheel?

- Andybb


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Aj2

3096 posts in 2575 days


#19 posted 04-01-2020 09:12 PM

How about the length of the blade? How certain are you that its not too long and your just way under the tension

-- Aj

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#20 posted 04-01-2020 11:21 PM

tvgeek.
I have watched Snodgrass and others, and tried everything they say. This is not an everyday tool, but it did seem to come on all at once.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#21 posted 04-02-2020 03:09 AM


Andy,
Have you watched the Snodgrass videos? Ever tried it? I did, and I did and only after moving my blade back could I cut dead true lines parallel with the table. I can cut 3 inch oak with the side guides backed out. We are talking a 10 inch Delta POS here! Of course, it was hopeless until I bought a good blade. My lower wheel is not adjustable. I now understand, guides are for curves. Not strait cuts.

- tvrgeek

I have watched them so many times I can almost recite them verbatim. Every saw is different. Laguna says to position the blade in the middle of the wheel on my 1412. No drift. If I tried to center the gullet of a 3/4” blade on the wheel it would hang off the back of the wheel regardless of what Snodgrass says. Something is not right if that blade rides that far off the back of the top wheel in his picture above. Most bottom wheels are not meant to be adjusted. And if it’s as he says there is no difference then there is another issue with the saw beyond where the blade rides on the wheel dead center or with the gullet centered. Those are minor tweaks. That’s why I suggested taking a close look at the upper wheel pivot arm because he said it all came on at once which indicates to me that something broke.

Not sure I understand what you are saying when you say guides are for curves not straight cuts. I resaw 12” hardwood with no drift and depending on the blade width, tight curves, both with the guides within a dollar bills distance from the blade. The blade width is what determines your curve radius, not the guides.

I still suggest posting pictures (or better yet a video tour) of the saw and guides and would really like a shot of that pivot arm. As CaptainKlutz said if it’s cracked it’s hard to see without taking the wheel off.


One thing I have noted is that when the top bearings are lowered to just an inch or so it will cut straight, but anything higher than that and it deflects the instant the blade hits the wood. I can t adjust one side bearing any closer, and it is about 3/32 away from the blade, on the side that the blade deflects to. Again, with a straight-on cut I would not think this would matter.
- StDane

The guides should be within a half inch of the top of the board and 3/32 is too big a gap. There is something wrong if the guides can’t be adjusted so they are both in contact with the blade then backed off ever so slightly.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#22 posted 04-02-2020 04:19 AM

Maybe I’m over thinking this but in your pics the blade is centered on the lower wheel when it’s hanging off the back of the upper whelk and you said it’s still centered on the lower wheel when you center it on the upper wheel. That means it’s not moving so something is broken I think. My money is still on the pivot. But as my wife will tell you I’m rarely right.

Good luck.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Nubsnstubs

1723 posts in 2507 days


#23 posted 04-02-2020 04:36 AM


I still say it’s the blade.

- Aj2

And I m still wondering why the blade is tracking almost off the back end of the upper wheel. That can t be right.

What happens when you center the blade on the upper wheel?

- Andybb


Both pictures of the wheels are bad, but common sense tells me that the top picture of the wheel is the bottom wheel, and the bottom picture is the top wheel.
According to Timberwolf, “While rotating the wheel by hand, adjust the tracking knob until the bottom of the blade gullets are aligned with the tire center. ” The bottom picture shows proper alignment of the blade, which is on the top wheel. Timberwolf also describes how to remove blade flutter, which could be part of your problem.

Dan, I couldn’t find a website for Timberwolf, so if you need to find instructions for blade tension, you’ll have to get over to a store that sells them and look on the back of the package. I’m also not trying to influence you into buying their blades. It’s just that they have instructions that works for me. .................... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#24 posted 04-02-2020 04:55 AM

We’ll just have to agree to disagree about weather the bottom picture which is the top wheel is aligned properly. But if he has a sharp blade on it like he says he does and it makes a hard left then something is broken. Something is wrong if he can’t adjust the guides against the blade on one side. That ain’t right.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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CaptainKlutz

3200 posts in 2272 days


#25 posted 04-02-2020 05:43 AM

+1 Get a brand new blade. Set up the new blade with guides out of way. Use the saw briefly without guides to ensure the blade is not making contact with guides and damaging the teeth. Then, If guides can not be adjusted to reach blade: Something is broken!

Another place to look besides the notorious failing pivot arm:
Remove the blade, and drive belt. Spin the wheels by hand.
Do they turn free, and make zero noise while spinning?

If you hear any noise, could have lost one of the two bearings inside each wheel. The outer is easy to see. To inspect the inner bearing, need to remove the wheel. Removal is easy, one bolt in center. Pull off evenly. While the top wheel is off, check the stupid pivot bracket, pretty please.

I’ve broken 2 pivot brackets on same Ridgid 14” saw with 3/4” blades. Switched to Timberwolf blades that require less tension, and use only 1/2” blades and never broke another one. The 1st time it broke while not being used, but I forgot to release tension when I was done last time. Drove me nuts trying to figure out why blade position on wheel was wrong, and blade was moving during cut. (Just like you are now)
The 2nd time I heard it break as I over tension-ed the blade. Have also rebuilt a HF 14” band saw with broken upper wheel pivot arm.
When things get wonky for me, first thing I do is firmly grab upper wheel and check for movement that indicates bad bracket or bearing. YMMV

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#26 posted 04-02-2020 03:02 PM

I haven’t taken the pivot apart, but it does work properly. Looks like I may have to partially or totally tear it down and make sure everything is right. One other thing that was suggested is that I check blade alignment fore and aft, and it was tilting a bit back towards the top. I adjusted that but still no difference. The arm holding the upper bearings is square to the blade.

Again, thank you everyone for your thoughts and assistance.

View Davevand's profile

Davevand

179 posts in 1614 days


#27 posted 04-02-2020 03:51 PM

Are you certain the blade is not hitting something and dulling the blade? I had this happen when the blade guard rubbed against the blade, it would ruin a brand new blade the second I turned the saw on, took me a while and 2 blades to find the problem.
Also would check the tension spring and setup

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Lazyman

5446 posts in 2165 days


#28 posted 04-02-2020 04:05 PM

The blade doesn’t look too dirty in the pictures but I’ve had that happen with an exceptionally dirty blade before. Makes it act like a dull blade. Build up from milling green logs can gum it up pretty quickly. Soaking in Simple green and wiping with a cloth cleared up my problem. I coil the blade and fill a cheap clear plant tray to soak.

Another thing to check is to make sure that you didn’t forget to set the guide bearing behind the blade above or below the table. If one (the bottom one would be my guess) is too far forward because you had a narrower blade on it before, that cause cause the blade to do strange things when stressed and could be why the blade appears to be a little farther forward on the bottom wheel. Note that the blade should not touch any of the guides when you are not sawing anything.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Aj2

3096 posts in 2575 days


#29 posted 04-02-2020 04:14 PM

I do believe some will test cut on the most dirty wood they can find. This will take out a new blade in 2 seconds.
Woodslicers blades are not known for their long life.
They have very little set in the teeth making them unsuitable for some woods. High moisture,lots of pitch or silica.
I’m holding my position it’s the blade.

Good Luck

-- Aj

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#30 posted 04-02-2020 05:21 PM

took apart the top end. Before I did I checked the wheel for play or looseness anywhere and it was tight. Spun freely and no wobbles. The nut holding the wheel in place was just a little tighter than finger tight. Should it be more snug?

Took the wheel off and the center of the axle of the pitch assembly was tight, and the wheel bearing was tight and moved freely. But, there are wear marks on the bracket of the pitch arm, with corresponding wear on the inside part of the wheel. The assembly works and can be easily adjusted. Don’t know if this wear means anything at this point or not. Finally, do I need new rubber on the wheels or just clean this off (can’t see this having much effect, but maybe I get it back to ‘perfect’)


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CaptainKlutz

3200 posts in 2272 days


#31 posted 04-02-2020 06:57 PM

Hmm,
the pivot bracket appears to be bent, and that is why there is damage to bracket/wheel?
It should be flat. About only way I can see that bracket getting bent is: if some one over tightens the screw on back attempting to force the wheel to far?
As long as the wheel doesn’t rub on bent bracket during normal use, and can still adjust the blade position as needed; suggest probably don’t need to replace it.

Tires look fine in photo portion shown, other than needing cleaned.
As long as no chunks missing, clean, dry, and reassemble.

Everything else you describe is pretty normal for 14” saws I have disassembled.

Cheers!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#32 posted 04-02-2020 07:40 PM

I think you found your problem. You will notice in your picture that the shaft and the pivot are not at right angles to each other like in the picture below and the wheel has dug into the pivot bracket. The only way that the wheel could dig into that bracket is if it is bent or broken and needs to be replaced. Every Delta clone uses that same pot metal part. It is the weak link in the saw. It will stretch, bend and eventually crack, sometimes from over tensioning but usually, it’s just metal fatigue. I’ve seen this in 3 or 4 saws. Remove the bracket assembly from the saw and make sure nothing else is broken. Sometimes the hinge holes that the pivot is on will crack too. If not you can tap the pins out and replace it with the $14 part. If that’s the case then you need to replace that too. Once you do, detention the blade if you aren’t going to use it for an extended period. Notice that the replacement part listed below says IRON pivot shaft UPGRADE. That’s because it’s a known issue with these saws. If nothing else is broken then if you want to save some money just spend the $14. The $114 option gives you iron parts that won’t flex.

Your tires look fine. Just clean them.


Edit: CaptaqinKlutz beat me to it.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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CaptainKlutz

3200 posts in 2272 days


#33 posted 04-02-2020 09:00 PM

+1 AndyBB
Remove pivot and check for cracks.
Hate to sound like broken record, but:
That pivot is weak link in most 14” band saw, especially if you dare over tension a 3/4 rigid back blade. :-(

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#34 posted 04-02-2020 09:15 PM


That pivot is weak link in most 14” band saw, especially if you dare over tension a 3/4 rigid back blade. :-(
- CaptainKlutz

+1 CK
It is the exact same part that is in Delta, Harbor Freight and about 20 other 14” clones including yours.

Stop and do not pass go. Either replace that before you continue, otherwise, you are wasting your time. Ask us how we know and how we knew that pivot was bent before you even posted the pictures. :-)

Also, which model is it? Does it have a riser block? If you plan on trying to do 12” resaw with a 3/4” blade then you are at the outer limits of that saw and at the very least buy the iron pivot upgrade, otherwise look at a different saw.
This is the tension/height adjustment in my Laguna. Beefy and made of stainless steel.

Good luck.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#35 posted 04-03-2020 06:08 PM

Wheeeeee this is fun! Put it together, everything turned well, can’t hear any rubbing. Still cuts to the left. I backed the bearings way out, still cuts to the left. Put on a different blade (3/8) and CUTS TO THE RIGHT.
Absent better ideas I will look for a new pivot, maybe even get the whole new assembly. Also need to look at new bearings, maybe cool blocks since they look to be more adjustable. My eccentric turn wheel bearings wont get close enough.

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#36 posted 04-03-2020 07:38 PM

It’s not rubbing because it’s not tensioned tight enough to rub but it’s still flexing so you’re still gonna have an issue. Replace the pivot with the $14 one and try it. If it’s still not up to snuff, sell the saw. But, don’t make the mistake I made by throwing $ at an inferior saw that isn’t designed to do what you want it to do. I bought guides, tires, riser block, pivot etc. chasing a good setup. Don’t know what you plan on resawing.

One step at a time. The stock guides should be able to contact the blade unless something is wrong before you look into cool blocks.

Here was my solution, but you can find a decent saw on CL.

This is 12” cocobolo cut with a 3/4” Resaw King blade.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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CaptainKlutz

3200 posts in 2272 days


#37 posted 04-04-2020 12:13 AM


Wheeeeee this is fun!
.
. My eccentric turn wheel bearings wont get close enough.

- StDane

You are not alone in your fun! Your experiences attempting to use old style 14” band saw with 3/4” blade size are very common, based on my experiences and what I read in forums.

The comment that guide bearings won’t touch the blade does vex me greatly?

Is this both upper and lower guides, or just one?

Every band saw I have used, the bearing guides were capable of pushing 1/4” or more, past center point of blade? This could be related to bent pivot bracket, but can think of couple other reasons this might be happening. Suggest you also check these items once you get a new pivot bracket:

1) The attachment point between the upper/lower cast iron frame of the saw is loose, or has moved.

2) Bent wheel or bad bearings on either wheel. (proably see blade oscillating out of position also)

3) Severe misalignment in wheel positions.

4) Lower guide mounting is loose or out of position.

5) Mounting point for upper guide support post is loose, bar is bent, or guide block bracket is bent.
Replaced the guide post and upper guide bearing mounting block for a saw once. Both bent after bring whacked accidentally with a board? #IAMAKLUTZ

Hoping your fix your problem soon. :-)
Cheers!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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homestd

12 posts in 671 days


#38 posted 04-04-2020 01:00 AM

3/32 is like a mile to a guide bearing or block. .03 would be closer.

-- Mother is the necessity of most invention.

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#39 posted 04-04-2020 01:19 AM

The comment that guide bearings won’t touch the blade does vex me greatly?

- CaptainKlutz

Same here. Has it always been that way or did this all happen at the same time?

But you never really said what your ultimate goal was and what kind of resawing you want to do and if your saw has a riser block. If it’s 12” hardwood with a 3/4” blade replace the pivot, sell the saw and buy another saw. Again, ask me how I know. :-) If you keep the saw don’t buy cool blocks yet. The kool blocks will slide to the blade and won’t fix the underlying issue.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#40 posted 04-04-2020 04:48 PM

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#41 posted 04-08-2020 09:29 PM

installed a whole new hinge set. Lined everything up. No change.

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#42 posted 04-09-2020 01:29 AM

OK. You’re not done yet. One step at a time.
Is it a 2 piece saw? Top and bottom half?
If so is the bolt tight?
Are the wheels parallel? (not co-planer)
Does it have a riser block?

Post a pic of the whole saw and the guides. Is the guide post perpendicular to the table? How does the blade track on the upper wheel with no guides or table attached? Did you figure out what’s up with the guides? Is the blade square to the table?

Fine-Tuning a Bandsaw

Can you shoot a video tour on your phone and post it?

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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HerringImpaired

66 posts in 486 days


#43 posted 04-09-2020 02:23 AM

I’m going to add this just because. May not apply, and if not, no harm, no foul, right?

I had an issue with my old Jet Bandsaw (20+ years old) where the blade would not track to save my posterior. Tried everything, wheels co-planar, guides, new blade, etc….
Finally replaced the tires with Urethane, Viola! Ran like a new saw. (Then I sold it and bought a Powermatic) ☺

-- "My greatest fear is that upon my demise, my wife will sell my tools for what I said I paid for them."

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Aj2

3096 posts in 2575 days


#44 posted 04-09-2020 02:50 AM

I know you said it was a new blade. But here’s why I think your blade is cooked the first post show a piece of wood with bark on it. This will take out a new blade pretty quick. The other think to consider is wood slicer blades have very little set . They only are good for super dry wood.
If your wood was wet with bark that’s a blade killer.
Good Luck

-- Aj

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tvrgeek

989 posts in 2427 days


#45 posted 04-09-2020 10:27 AM

Aj, why would bark eat a blade? For that matter, I can see a blade in green wood loading up, so maybe cutting slower, but hot damaging the blade. Please explain.

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Aj2

3096 posts in 2575 days


#46 posted 04-09-2020 01:56 PM



Aj, why would bark eat a blade? For that matter, I can see a blade in green wood loading up, so maybe cutting slower, but hot damaging the blade. Please explain.

- tvrgeek

Because bark is usually very dirty with anything that was blowing in the wind.
It’s stuck in the bark as the tree grows.
Its also very possible that the tree was laying in the dirt after it was cut.
Never lay wood from the lumber down on the ground. We are building furniture now not framing houses. :)

-- Aj

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#47 posted 04-11-2020 06:01 PM

Andybb
Perhaps you are on to something. Since I redid the upper wheel I’ve switched to the lower one. There is a very slight forward pitch towards the top. I’ll work on correcting that (doesn’t look easy….)

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Andybb

2762 posts in 1381 days


#48 posted 04-11-2020 07:18 PM


Andybb
Perhaps you are on to something. Since I redid the upper wheel I ve switched to the lower one. There is a very slight forward pitch towards the top. I ll work on correcting that (doesn t look easy….)

- StDane

Still waiting to see a pic of the whole saw. Is it one piece or 2 halves? If it’s 2 halves then you can just loosen the bolt and slide the top half to align the wheels. Don’t try the technique in the above post. You’re right, that doesn’t look easy. That was just to show how they should be aligned.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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StDane

20 posts in 1612 days


#49 posted 04-13-2020 09:32 PM

Okay, here’s what I think it is. Demonic possession.

The lower wheel has a wobble. Don’t know if this is an issue or not, some places I’ve looked say yes, others no. I tried to attach a video but that’s not allowed. Don’t know if the wheel is out of true or if its the mounting.

And to add insult to injury I thought I would try a different belt speed. Set the belt on the other set of pulleys, and it jumps all on it’s own back onto the other set. I can’t make it not do that,...AND when it makes the jump it turns inside out….there is a small tear in the belt so I am ordering a new one.

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Lazyman

5446 posts in 2165 days


#50 posted 04-14-2020 01:44 AM

I don’t see how a wobble would not be a problem. I would think that the blade will gyrate back and forth with each revolution of the wheel or even come off the wheel completely It could also be why the belt jumped off. Does the pulley look like it is wobbling too?

I think that the saw may have been dropped on its head when it was young.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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