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View trsnider's profile

laguna 1412 blade tracking

by trsnider
posted 01-11-2020 01:17 AM


28 replies so far

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

3549 posts in 4028 days


#1 posted 01-11-2020 03:47 AM

I may be missing something, but it sounds like you need a blade an inch or two longer.

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

258 posts in 3094 days


#2 posted 01-11-2020 03:51 AM

Don’t think so I bought the blade at the recommended length. Don’t remember what that is offhand. 116 maybe?

View ibewjon's profile

ibewjon

2419 posts in 3877 days


#3 posted 01-11-2020 04:07 AM

My 14 SUV takes a 125”. It is labeled on the saw so no mistakes. I would think there should be a tag on your saw. I don’t have the 14/12, but have had no problems with my 14suv.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

3279 posts in 1687 days


#4 posted 01-11-2020 09:52 AM

Are you calling the top wheel the “flywheel”? The 1412 takes a 115” blade. There should be no flopping. My 1412 tracked perfectly with zero drift out of the box 2 years ago and still does. Was your saw new in the box or was it used or a demo where people have played with the adjustments? Did you watch the Laguna 1412 setup videos? The wheels don’t need to be coplanar. Snodgrass will explain this in his video. Laguna says the blade should track in the center of the upper wheel (even though Alex Snodgrass says the gullet should be in the center of the wheel). When changing blades from 3/4 to 1/2 to 1/4” there is only a very slight adjustment of the tracking knob. The tensioning doesn’t affect the tracking. Move the upper and lower guides out of the way, de-tension, change blade, re-tension for the new blade and adjust tracking then the guides. I love this saw and know it well.

One adjustment you can make is to slightly loosen the nut that adjusts the tension lever slide in the picture below. It allows the top wheel to slide down for blade changing.* Here is a quick video.

The tension “meter” is only attached by magnets and can move so I drew a line under mine with a marker to make sure it’s where it’s supposed to be.

1/2” blade tracking in the center of the upper wheel.

The blade doesn’t track in the center of the bottom wheel so they are not coplanar and don’t need to be.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Andybb

3279 posts in 1687 days


#5 posted 01-11-2020 10:14 AM

Snodgrass addresses coplanar at 6:00 into his video.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View garageking's profile

garageking

46 posts in 1534 days


#6 posted 01-11-2020 02:54 PM

Andy is 100% correct. I have purchased and used both a 1412 and a 14bx. Never had any such problems. I have found Laguna support extremely helpful so would definitely call them. I use multiple blades on the Laguna from 1/8” (with Carter stabilizer) to the 3/4” Resaw King. At first I was hesitant about changing blades but now I change the blades often and very easily. Occasionally I have to slightly adjust the tracking knob but usually not. Both are amazing saws in my opinion. I would also echo Andy’s advice to look at all the Laguna support 1412 youtube videos. And the Snodgrass video addresses the non importance of coplanarity.

-- David, Kentucky

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

258 posts in 3094 days


#7 posted 01-11-2020 04:12 PM

I should’ve posted this 1st. Here’s a video of my question. To me it sounded really bad at times.
https://youtu.be/8i0anVOdkjg
Thx for all the responses

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

3279 posts in 1687 days


#8 posted 01-11-2020 06:19 PM

Yes. With no blade on there that is normal. So the floppyness and “coplanarity” are non issues so after you watch the Laguna and Snodgrass vids let’s figure out what if any issues you really have and get you cutting. What is the saw not doing properly for you? Does it drift? Is the table flat and square to the blade? I can resaw any 12” tall wood down to at least 1/16” with my Resaw King blade as long as everything is square and properly adjusted. If you can’t let’s figure out why and fix it.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Adam12Hicks's profile

Adam12Hicks

12 posts in 2210 days


#9 posted 02-15-2020 09:52 PM

Not to threadjack – but since this has been dormant for a month and there are obviously VERY experienced folks on this thread – I’m having a similar issue and it’s completely killed my productivity for the weekend so far.

I’m using a today-days-old Timberwolf 1/2” 3tpi 115” blade. I had the same blade on it before, but hit some metal in a piece of wood and caused the blade to dull (so I thought, because that’s when this problem started). Went out same day and bought a new blade.

My 1412 is tracking heavily towards the fence, cutting wood into wedges instead of straight lines. I’ve had it a few years and it’s never been this bad.

I’ve checked that everything is square and tension is correct, adjusted my fence (ran some 2”x2”x8” pieces freehand on a drawn line to figure out tracking, marked the table, adjusted fence accordingly. I had to adjust the fence with as much angle as the 3 adjustment bolts would allow. That didn’t make any difference. It still tracks into the fence to a point that it either pulls away in the rear or the blade will track all the way into the fence.

I’ve tried running the blade on dead center of the upper wheel and on the center of the blade gullet. Both with the same results.

Guides are 1/16” behind the gullets and just off of the rear guide. Everything turns freely.

Without the fence, running wood through the blade on a straight line requires the wood to be at a decently strong angle off of ‘square’ to follow the line. More so than I can (or should) be adjusting the fence to accommodate.

Can anyone thing of anything that I’ve missed? I have an entire shop sitting dormant until I can fix this issue, as I can’t produce the product I make without being able to cut accurate thin slices on the bandsaw.

Thank you!!!!

View Adam12Hicks's profile

Adam12Hicks

12 posts in 2210 days


#10 posted 02-15-2020 10:20 PM

Here’s a piece of spectraply so you can see front to back difference. feed speed doesn’t matter – it just cuts towards the fence immediately.

View Adam12Hicks's profile

Adam12Hicks

12 posts in 2210 days


#11 posted 02-15-2020 10:21 PM

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

258 posts in 3094 days


#12 posted 02-15-2020 11:28 PM

Laguna support will probably have a good solution. You might try them.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

3279 posts in 1687 days


#13 posted 02-16-2020 12:41 AM

Maybe we can figure this out together. I’ve had my 1412 for 2 years and the other week a chunk of something somehow got past the blade guard and stopped the blade dead in it’s tracks. Since then I’ve had this feeling that something is now not right but I’ve been afraid to check. Let us know what Laguna support says. It tracked perfectly with no drift right out of the box for the past 2 years. I have always tracked the blade (not the gullet) in the center of the wheel.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Adam12Hicks's profile

Adam12Hicks

12 posts in 2210 days


#14 posted 02-16-2020 03:01 AM

Unfortunately Laguna support isn’t available on the weekend. So I’m still diagnosing the problem. I installed another blade and increased the blade tension quite a bit. Feels like it’s doing better, but the cut is far from clean. Will keep working on it.

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

764 posts in 2816 days


#15 posted 02-16-2020 04:11 AM

It looks and sounds like something is broken or maybe way out of adjustment on your saw trsnider. In the video you posted, that play/looseness in the upper wheel is absolutely not normal. The upper wheel on my saw has no play at all.

Did you attempt to adjust the upper wheel on your saw to try to make it coplanar with the bottom wheel? if so, what prompted you to do that? Do some bandsaws require that the upper and lower wheels be coplanar?

I have a 1412 and (knock on wood) it works perfectly. I track the blade so that the crown of the wheel is just behind the gullet in the blade. I adjust the guides so that they are very close to the blade but not so close that they drag significantly on the blade. I use a cigarette paper or a dollar bill to get the right gap. It’s a little fussy.

I’ve never checked to see if the wheels on my saw are coplanar. Maybe I’m lucky, but I’ve never had to adjust my fence to compensate for blade drift—no matter what blade width I use (1/4, 1/2, 3/4).

I hope you figure out the problem and are able to fix it.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

3279 posts in 1687 days


#16 posted 02-16-2020 06:33 PM


In the video you posted, that play/looseness in the upper wheel is absolutely not normal.
- Bill_Steele

Gotta respectfully disagree. With no blade on it mine has the same play. It’s just pivoting on the tracking adjustment. Don’t have time to make another video but that is normal.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Aaron312's profile

Aaron312

49 posts in 484 days


#17 posted 02-17-2020 03:01 AM

I am no expert here, but I think that the store where I bought my laguna 1412 is. They sell enough of them that they were able to buy a large quantity and sell them for $999 in Nov – Dec. The salesman there said you do have to pay attention to the lower wheel to get the blade to track properly. He wrote a detailed procedure on how to adjust it if you need to. I can scan and email it if you want. I haven’t gotten mine set up yet so I dont know. I’m new here and not sure how this works here to contact me, maybe someone can help?

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3843 posts in 2882 days


#18 posted 02-17-2020 03:21 AM

Adam one possibility is the table moved. I’m not familiar with the trunnions on that laguna saw. So take this for what it’s worth.
If the table is loose on the trunnions and rotatedin the wrong direction it will put the tracking of the blade out of wack. With the fence.
A good way to check or set the alignment is to install a wide blade on the saw. Then use a good straight 12 ruler up against the side of the try not to touch the teeth. The ruler should be parallel with the miter, slot hopefully you saw table has one.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View Adam12Hicks's profile

Adam12Hicks

12 posts in 2210 days


#19 posted 02-17-2020 03:25 AM

Thanks – yes it does have a miter slot. I have 3/4” resaw king blades I can check it against. I do feel like something is out of whack. It’s been pretty frustrating – about to sell the saw and buy a new one – which I hate to do but I’ve had it for a few years and just spend too much time trying to tweak it.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

1869 posts in 2733 days


#20 posted 02-17-2020 12:06 PM

Forgive me as I am very new to bandsaws, but could the “hit” have bent something with the guides? Have you tried backing off the guides completely to see it’s natural tracking? How about a strait edge to see if the band is parallel to the table?

Watching intently as I am 99% sure I wil be buying a 1412 to replace my 10 inch Delta. I did get the Delta to track after following the Snodgrass advice but still want a “real” saw. Guides being fussy is my hold back. That is why I keep thinking about the Rikon

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

764 posts in 2816 days


#21 posted 02-19-2020 02:48 PM


In the video you posted, that play/looseness in the upper wheel is absolutely not normal.
- Bill_Steele

Gotta respectfully disagree. With no blade on it mine has the same play. It s just pivoting on the tracking adjustment. Don t have time to make another video but that is normal.

- Andybb

I was wrong. Thank you for respectfully disagreeing—I appreciate it. I checked last night and to my surprise—when the upper wheel is not under tension it definitely moves just like yours in the video—I couldn’t believe it. My saw tracks straight despite this and I can resaw to a consistent thickness throughout.

View AllenSmitty's profile

AllenSmitty

2 posts in 77 days


#22 posted 02-26-2021 11:28 PM

I have a wobble in the arm of my Laguna 14BX. Is this normal?

View Aaron312's profile

Aaron312

49 posts in 484 days


#23 posted 02-27-2021 02:57 AM

My local dealer gave me a tracking adjustment procedure of some sort for larger blades I think. They said some Laguna 1412’s need this done and some don’t. Mine tracks fine so I’ve never looked at this. But I am happy to email copy of it to anyone who wants it. Maybe it will help.

Let me know

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

1001 posts in 2546 days


#24 posted 02-27-2021 04:40 AM



Unfortunately Laguna support isn’t available on the weekend. So I’m still diagnosing the problem. I installed another blade and increased the blade tension quite a bit. Feels like it’s doing better, but the cut is far from clean. Will keep working on it.

- Adam12Hicks


Adam, watch that Alex Snodgrass video linked above. A couple things from what you have said. Since it got a little better with more blade tension. Typically a blade drift issue like you have is a tension issue. No two blades are exact. Sold as 115”, But as they are made by a human, one is 115, the next 115-1/4”, ore 114-7/8”. so you will have some different tension with each new blade.
Also already mentioned about the table getting bumped. As Alex’s video shows a simple block of wood cut test to makes sure the table is square to the blade.
Back it all off, and readjust from scratch.
good luck.

-- John

View Hermit's profile

Hermit

248 posts in 2409 days


#25 posted 02-27-2021 12:01 PM

Ive always had this issue with mine since day 1. I thought it was just part of the saw. But I did figure out to not release the tension rod all the way. In fact, just barely. Just enough to adjust the tracking.

-- I'm like the farmer's duck. If it don't rain, I'll walk.

View AllenSmitty's profile

AllenSmitty

2 posts in 77 days


#26 posted 02-27-2021 01:27 PM

I have a wobble in the arm of my Laguna 14BX. Is this normal? Could this be the cause of my blade not tracking if the rod that holds the guides moves a bit (forward and back, not side to side)? How do i tighten it to get rid of the movement?

View Jim2020's profile

Jim2020

73 posts in 323 days


#27 posted 02-27-2021 05:51 PM

Adam: I don’t have a Laguna, I’ve got a Mini Max, but whenever my saw tracks/cuts at an angle like you’ve shown, it’s because the blade is dull. Try a new sharp blade. Also look for contact with the blade teeth somewhere on the saw. The blade may be rubbing against something and going dull instantly. Good luck. Jim

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

1869 posts in 2733 days


#28 posted 02-27-2021 06:21 PM

I found out the hard way not paying close enough attention when tweaking the tracking. touched a guide and that was all it took to trash a new 3/4 blade. So far, my C-14 tracks just fine.

Hermit has a interstring point on the tension. I wondered about it moving around enough the first revolution or so hitting a guide .

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