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All Replies on Best Way to Cut a LOT of 8+ ft 45 Degree Miters

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View wilschroter's profile

Best Way to Cut a LOT of 8+ ft 45 Degree Miters

by wilschroter
posted 07-08-2019 10:59 AM


19 replies so far

View HokieKen's profile (online now)

HokieKen

10733 posts in 1615 days


#1 posted 07-08-2019 11:38 AM

A miter saw would be the only other option that comes to mind.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4137 posts in 2465 days


#2 posted 07-08-2019 11:51 AM

A miter saw or build a jig to use track saw. Building a jig with plywood should be easy and you can incorporate a way to clamp them down.

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

1759 posts in 1884 days


#3 posted 07-08-2019 11:54 AM

Wait you’re saying miter but I think you mean bevel. You’re cutting a 45° angle down the 9ft length correct?
In that case a shaper would be best, then router table (with chamfer bit) and tablesaw will be next. You need feather boards setup to hold the work flat and tight to the fence as well as infeed and out feed support.
I assume you’re wrapping columns or beams?

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wilschroter

95 posts in 1002 days


#4 posted 07-08-2019 11:57 AM

GrantA you're right - sorry. Too early, need more caffeine. Yes, bevel cuts 45. I was thinking the miter saw.

I thought about the router table but moving such a large board feels like it would give me ample room for a bit of shake even with a feather board over such a long run – what do you think?

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wichman3

95 posts in 1098 days


#5 posted 07-08-2019 01:01 PM

Table saw. Infeed and outfeed supports, featherboards fore and aft in both planes (total of four featherboards) sacrificial fence on the rip fence. One setup, cut all the boards, done. Featherboards should be just snug, not so much for kickback, just to guide the work. sacrificial fence allows the piece close to the fence and gives something to clamp the vertical featherboards to.

View John Smith's profile (online now)

John Smith

1969 posts in 639 days


#6 posted 07-08-2019 01:04 PM

I am thinking long side cuts on two sides ?
like to make a flat deck, fence or accent wall?

.

-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

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Robert

3512 posts in 1958 days


#7 posted 07-08-2019 01:13 PM

Gang them up, clamp and use your tracksaw?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Delete's profile

Delete

439 posts in 849 days


#8 posted 07-08-2019 02:04 PM

I think your track saw, panel saw or table saw are your best options. All would work, but the table saw would be quicker than the track saw and more precise than the panel saw. You want consistent accuracy through the full 9’ length, finishing it with a well supported lite pass on your jointer would give you that, the bevel will be as accurate as you set your fence.

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waho6o9

8745 posts in 3054 days


#9 posted 07-08-2019 02:29 PM

+1 for GrantA

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12883 posts in 2857 days


#10 posted 07-08-2019 03:31 PM

It’s a rip cut so tablesaw, alternately a handheld router.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5659 posts in 3720 days


#11 posted 07-08-2019 03:32 PM

No matter what you use to cut the bevels, a jig is essential to getting uniform cuts. Support both ends of the board. When I cut a long bevel, I use a board clamped to the fence that presses down on the board to be cut. That will insure the board won’t rise during cutting. The board must remain perfectly flat to the table. If you are wrapping a post, I would cut the bevel slightly more than 45°, by around a degree. This is if the corners don’t match, the gap will be on the inside where it can’t be seen. Of course you will have to add a corner block to keep the corner square.

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SMP

1333 posts in 382 days


#12 posted 07-08-2019 04:20 PM

Cedar for exterior? What grade? For fencing? I’ve stopped trying to be too accurate when doing anything with cedar fencing as it looks completely different a year later.

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

214 posts in 436 days


#13 posted 07-08-2019 07:08 PM

Shaper with a outboard fence and a feeder would be fastest. Second choice would be the table saw

View wilschroter's profile

wilschroter

95 posts in 1002 days


#14 posted 07-08-2019 07:30 PM

What’s the best shaper you could use? Any recommendations?

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

214 posts in 436 days


#15 posted 07-08-2019 08:36 PM



What s the best shaper you could use? Any recommendations?

- wilschroter

In general, or in this application?

Generally 5.5-10hp, 1.25” spindle, and 1000lbs on the low end.

Lots of people start out with the little delta hd or powermatic 26/27. Bigger is better in shapers.

View LesB's profile

LesB

2168 posts in 3920 days


#16 posted 07-08-2019 10:28 PM

Grant A is on the right track.
However a right tilting table saw may be a problem depending on the width of your boards. You want the cut off to be on the underside of the blade with the board on the top side of the cut. With a right tilting saw you will need to move the fence to the left side of the blade which limits the width of the board that will fit between the blade and the fence. As I recall from your previous post on this matter you were looking for extra wide cedar boards. In that case a left tilting saw would work better.

-- Les B, Oregon

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12883 posts in 2857 days


#17 posted 07-15-2019 06:11 PM

This cut isn’t a problem on a right tilt saw if you don’t stand behind the blade. The board itself can’t kick back because it’s dovetailed by the blade, also it’s a trimming cut so there shouldn’t be anything to pinch the blade, and the cut off is just a tiny thing that will knock off harmlessly.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2016 posts in 1080 days


#18 posted 07-15-2019 09:03 PM


Wait you re saying miter but I think you mean bevel. You re cutting a 45° angle down the 9ft length correct?
In that case a shaper would be best, then router table (with chamfer bit) and tablesaw will be next. You need feather boards setup to hold the work flat and tight to the fence as well as infeed and out feed support.
I assume you re wrapping columns or beams?

- GrantA

+1 and spend some time on a jig and the setup. You may not have a shaper and that’s a tall order for a router table. If the wood is square and straight a table saw is your best choice IMO.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View wilschroter's profile

wilschroter

95 posts in 1002 days


#19 posted 07-15-2019 09:08 PM

What I wound up doing is just putting a couple of toggle clamps screwed down to my bench top and using the track saw. Once I got into a rhythm it didn’t take nearly as long as I thought it would. I was a bit concerned that I was going to get lots of different cuts (widths) but shockingly across 32 cuts @ 9 ft. each (without measuring because I was mostly just cutting off the edges) I got very little variance on cuts.

Cordless 60v DeWalt Track Saw for the win…

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