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View Paul Fisicaro's profile

band saw problem

by Paul Fisicaro
posted 12-16-2018 10:56 AM


22 replies so far

View Captspaulding's profile

Captspaulding

18 posts in 317 days


#1 posted 12-16-2018 11:05 AM

I had this happen to a 10” craftsman. Thinking it was a fluke I reinstalled the blade and it happened again. I was advised my tires were bad. I replaced my tires and never had an issue again

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#2 posted 12-16-2018 11:18 AM



I had this happen to a 10” craftsman. Thinking it was a fluke I reinstalled the blade and it happened again. I was advised my tires were bad. I replaced my tires and never had an issue again

- Captspaulding

Thanks for the quick reply.. Can anyone recommend a place where I can get the exact tires? or would these work?

https://www.amazon.com/Urethane-Band-Saw-Tires-Delta/dp/B01C7V2XU4

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5715 posts in 3750 days


#3 posted 12-16-2018 06:09 PM

If your lower guides are the roller variety and they look like they are, that is your problem. a “wedge” shaped piece of wood gets wedged in between the blade and roller and clamps onto the blade causing it to snap. Replace the lower guides with cool blocks if the guide will accept them.

View ocean's profile

ocean

179 posts in 1340 days


#4 posted 12-16-2018 06:18 PM

Get yourself a zero clearance plate also (or make one of thin door skin). This will keep those small pieces from falling into the guides.

-- Bob, FL Keys

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#5 posted 12-16-2018 06:57 PM


Get yourself a zero clearance plate also (or make one of thin door skin). This will keep those small pieces from falling into the guides.

- ocean


If your lower guides are the roller variety and they look like they are, that is your problem. a “wedge” shaped piece of wood gets wedged in between the blade and roller and clamps onto the blade causing it to snap. Replace the lower guides with cool blocks if the guide will accept them.

- MrRon

Well, that was the second time it happened. The first time nothing fell through the hole I was re-sawing. I suspect its that bottom roller too but its never happened before and I’ve had that band saw for three years.

Ron, are talking about these?

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/cool-blocks-bandsaw-blade-guide-round-block-size-1-4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5peHpoOl3wIViFcNCh2u2gRpEAQYAiABEgKyKfD_BwE

Ocean, where are you in the Keys?? Im in Marathon.

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

680 posts in 1969 days


#6 posted 12-16-2018 07:09 PM

Hi Paul,
Try adjusting the guides and blade properly before you go replacing things.
My 17” grizzly saw has the roller bearing guides, and they work fine.
I was having all sorts of problems. Another bandsaw thread here had this video. I used
it to set up my saw and it has worked fine ever sense.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
What saw do you have?

-- John

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#7 posted 12-16-2018 07:16 PM



Hi Paul,
Try adjusting the guides and blade properly before you go replacing things.
My 17” grizzly saw has the roller bearing guides, and they work fine.
I was having all sorts of problems. Another bandsaw thread here had this video. I used
it to set up my saw and it has worked fine ever sense.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
What saw do you have?

I watched that video a long while ago and did most of the stuff that he suggested. I have a 14” Delta X5.

- bigJohninvegas


View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2093 posts in 1110 days


#8 posted 12-16-2018 07:30 PM

Thanks for the quick reply.. Can anyone recommend a place where I can get the exact tires? or would these work?

https://www.amazon.com/Urethane-Band-Saw-Tires-Delta/dp/B01C7V2XU4

- Paul Fisicaro

Those tires should work if you are sure that is the problem but I would set up the saw properly first. Remove the table, adjust the tension and guides, center the blade (not the gullet) on the top wheel, make an insert, check and adjust for any drift before you start spending money. I know everybody knows about and some poo poo Alex Snodgrass but that is your first step in the process of elimination. The BS is IMHO the most difficult machine to setup and diagnose issues with because everything affects and has an effect on everything else.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

3012 posts in 3944 days


#9 posted 12-17-2018 02:02 PM

I’ve got an older 14” craftsman. I’ve had it since 1973, same tires. Last year they began wandering on the pulleys. The tires looked okay but they’d just slide and the blade would be thrown. I took them off, applied a little contact cement and they now don’t move and neither does the blade.

Of course if your pulleys are not aligned the same thing will happen, but chances are they didn’t suddenly go out of alignment.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2908 posts in 1729 days


#10 posted 12-17-2018 04:10 PM

Properly set up your guides then you can make a simple insert by just running a long piece of hardboard against your fence after setting it up for your re-sawing, cut half way through, stop, then clamp or double side tape it to your table. Now you have a “perfect” zero clearance insert that will keep any chunks from landing in your lower guides.

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#11 posted 12-17-2018 04:26 PM



Properly set up your guides then you can make a simple insert by just running a long piece of hardboard against your fence after setting it up for your re-sawing, cut half way through, stop, then clamp or double side tape it to your table. Now you have a “perfect” zero clearance insert that will keep any chunks from landing in your lower guides.

That’s a great idea. Thanks! Never thought of that. Ill probably make an insert too. I know it wont be that hard. I just have to do it.

- splintergroup


View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5715 posts in 3750 days


#12 posted 12-17-2018 04:27 PM


If your lower guides are the roller variety and they look like they are, that is your problem. a “wedge” shaped piece of wood gets wedged in between the blade and roller and clamps onto the blade causing it to snap. Replace the lower guides with cool blocks if the guide will accept them.

- MrRon

Well, that was the second time it happened. The first time nothing fell through the hole I was re-sawing. I suspect its that bottom roller too but its never happened before and I ve had that band saw for three years.

Ron, are talking about these?

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/cool-blocks-bandsaw-blade-guide-round-block-size-1-4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5peHpoOl3wIViFcNCh2u2gRpEAQYAiABEgKyKfD_BwE

Ocean, where are you in the Keys?? Im in Marathon.

- Paul Fisicaro


Yes

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#13 posted 12-17-2018 04:31 PM



I ve got an older 14” craftsman. I ve had it since 1973, same tires. Last year they began wandering on the pulleys. The tires looked okay but they d just slide and the blade would be thrown. I took them off, applied a little contact cement and they now don t move and neither does the blade.

Of course if your pulleys are not aligned the same thing will happen, but chances are they didn t suddenly go out of alignment.

- Craftsman on the lake

My tires don’t look great and I know the previous owner used this saw A LOT. He made boat parts (trim and stuff) out of teak and mahogany. He had a giant shaper in his shop and all the works. Professional marine wood shop. The tires probably need to be changed either way, Im sure. I know they have some hours on them. Thanks for the tips! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-UNION-no-6-C-Vertical-Post-Hand-Plane-Old-Carpenters-Tool/192755205218?hash=item2ce11b0462:g:uhEAAOSwlUhbmZ7s:rk:5:pf:0

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1993 days


#14 posted 12-18-2018 04:27 AM

If the tires still have a crown and don’t pull away from the rim as the machine is running, I would leave them be.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View steve104c's profile

steve104c

52 posts in 1745 days


#15 posted 12-18-2018 10:29 PM

I have Carter wheel guides on both of my bandsaws. They recommend that the saw should run where the teeth run flat at the top of the tire. The blade will run further back on the tire. Look on Carter bandsaw guides web site to see what I mean. Blade tension also needs to be correct. They have guides for most brands. I recommend highly. steve104c

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#16 posted 12-19-2018 10:55 AM



I have Carter wheel guides on both of my bandsaws. They recommend that the saw should run where the teeth run flat at the top of the tire. The blade will run further back on the tire. Look on Carter bandsaw guides web site to see what I mean. Blade tension also needs to be correct. They have guides for most brands. I recommend highly. steve104c

- steve104c

Ill definitely check them out.. thanks!

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#17 posted 12-19-2018 11:01 AM


Remove the table, adjust the tension and guides, center the blade (not the gullet) on the top wheel, make an insert, check and adjust for any drift before you start spending money.
- Andybb

You can remove the table???! LOL I was wondering how come I couldnt get the that allen screw for the bottom roller. Ill try to take it off this morning….

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#18 posted 12-19-2018 11:02 AM

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1993 days


#19 posted 12-19-2018 05:23 PM

Hey! If you!

On typical saws the handwheels for the trunnions unscrew and and the table pops right off. I’ll usually do that and check everything before resawing expensive lumber.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#20 posted 12-19-2018 07:52 PM


Hey! If you!

On typical saws the handwheels for the trunnions unscrew and and the table pops right off. I’ll usually do that and check everything before resawing expensive lumber.

- TheFridge

Thanks Fridge!!!

PS I dont know what a Trunnion is but I surely LOVE Funions…

View mrg's profile

mrg

860 posts in 3506 days


#21 posted 12-19-2018 08:13 PM

Check to see if the bracket behind the upper wheel is not cracked or broken. If you never take the tention off your blade it may have cracked. I had a saw do this to me in the past. Put the blade back on work for a bit and the blade would come off.

-- mrg

View Paul Fisicaro's profile

Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 2040 days


#22 posted 12-20-2018 01:42 AM



Check to see if the bracket behind the upper wheel is not cracked or broken. If you never take the tention off your blade it may have cracked. I had a saw do this to me in the past. Put the blade back on work for a bit and the blade would come off.

- mrg

I did check and its fine. I let off the tension on the blade every night after I use it. I used the saw all day today with a brand new Timber Wolf blade.. I also moved the blade in some and fiddled with all the rollers and gadgets on there. I noticed the blade was running on the inside of the tire at the top and almost off the tire and the bottom. I got it somewhat co-planer although I know it doesn’t have to be exact. I did tighten it up a bit as well. It ran really good with no issues so far. It cut pretty damn straight. I re-sawed some mahogany and beech with out a hitch. I still cant get to the bottom guide to bring it in some one said above, i guess Ill have to take the table off.

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