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Of rust, priming, and painting hand planes

by Sanderguy777
posted 12-14-2018 09:25 PM


22 replies so far

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#1 posted 12-14-2018 09:31 PM

Bear in mind, I have no experience with any of this, and the weather here is 40s to 50s and damp, so painting is not to the instructions’ “70° and sunny, but not in direct sunlight”

Also, I want paint that DRIES. If it needs an extra couple days, or a trip to an oven, fine. But I HATE tacky paint! Especially when it costs 9 or so bucks a quart and has had 6 months or during time.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Don W

19331 posts in 3075 days


#2 posted 12-14-2018 09:31 PM

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/bench-plane-restoration-guide-part-1/

Some pictures would help us give accurate advise

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#3 posted 12-14-2018 10:32 PM

First is sanded to about 800 or 1000 grit

Second is after the gel stuff. Slight surface rust after being thoroughly dried and set for only a week.

Last 2 are craftsman #5. That’s the one with cardboard embedded in the rust. The sole was scrubbed with a wire brush but still bad.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#4 posted 12-14-2018 10:34 PM

The first 2 images are not the same iron and chipper. 1st is #4. Second is from the #5.
The gel did take some rust off. But it defeated its purpose by not keeping it away.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Don W

19331 posts in 3075 days


#5 posted 12-14-2018 10:42 PM

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Don W

19331 posts in 3075 days


#6 posted 12-14-2018 10:43 PM

Wire wheel them

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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fivecodys

1485 posts in 2144 days


#7 posted 12-14-2018 10:45 PM

I have been using Evaporust from Harbor Freight and it works well for me. They usually have a 20% off coupon.
I have a couple of little troughs I soak them in.
I have used citrus based strippers on the planes that had most of the japanning missing. I follow that up with a wire brush and wire wheel.

Watch out. This is the most addicting thing I have ever gotten involved with. I already have several planes waiting in the wings for a restoration as soon as all the Christmas presents are finished.

Have fun!

-- When you leave your shop for the night, make sure you can always count to 10.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#8 posted 12-16-2018 08:17 AM

This IS very addictive!
So I have decided to repaint the planes. The japanning is worn and missing in spots.

Will Rustoleum stops rust or pro work? It looks pretty good and is available in my area for half the cost of the duplicolor. (It is not engine enamal so not hard)

Is there a specific reason you chose duplicolor instead of something else?
Also, with any of these paints, is primer needed?

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Don W

19331 posts in 3075 days


#9 posted 12-16-2018 11:34 AM

Duplicolor matches the original japanning in color and texture closer than most other paints. If matching that is not a concern, Rust-Oleum will work just fine.

The other advantage to duplicolor is the quick recoat time.

Any good quality paint properly applied will work. It doesn’t even need to be black if the mood strikes.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#10 posted 12-16-2018 03:48 PM

Thank you. Right now the mone is a real concern unfortunately.

How many coats do you think I need?

Also, do you think spray is a better way to go than a can of paint? ( I thought controlling a brush would be easier than a spray pattern, but I might put it on too heavy with the brush)

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2403 posts in 2497 days


#11 posted 12-16-2018 04:54 PM

You want to strip them – use the airplane stripper and learn to deal with it properly, or you can continue screwing around with the lightweight stuff and waste time and $.

While I use wire wheels for the heavier rust, I like soaking in Evaporust because it gets everywhere – important if repainting.

Since you are going to the trouble of stripping, you want the paint job to look good – tape off the surfaces and spray them. If You go to the trouble to strip and tape off, you want a tough paint – Use oil based enamel implement paint. Can take a while to cure out but its the toughest stuff I know of in a rattle can.

After painting cover all surfaces with Alox. Great rust preventive. Use paste wax not oil to lube threads and pivot points, as well as the sole. Keeps dust away.

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Don W

19331 posts in 3075 days


#12 posted 12-16-2018 10:00 PM

Definitely spray, and 5 or 6 Coates.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View poopiekat's profile

poopiekat

4528 posts in 4242 days


#13 posted 12-16-2018 10:27 PM

I’m a big proponent of sandblasting, using the finer of the two grits of crushed glass available in discount stores.

I prefer to use brush-on Alkyd enamel. I usually use automotive spot putty first if the cast iron surface is rough, then sand with #220. I’ve also used heavy-bodied sandable primer followed up with steel wool ‘til the surface is super smooth.

Alkyd dries slower than other oil-based enamels but it flows out without brush streaks. Two coats will do it.

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

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TheFridge

10859 posts in 1994 days


#14 posted 12-16-2018 10:29 PM

When I don’t strip it, I at least wire wheel the hell out of what’s left of the japanning to break the edges of it.

A wire wheel on a bench grinder does 90% of the rust removing for me. I only use a rust remover if I want almost every speck of rust off.

After the bath, wash with water, dry it, and wax it or whatever you prefer. I always put a drop of 3in1 oil in/on all threaded parts of the plane.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#15 posted 12-17-2018 01:58 AM

I think I’ll just bite the bullet and get duplicolor since I have to get a diamond stone from Amazon anyway.

Since I brought that up, is the trend 2 sided stone better than dmt duos? I have a 6000 grit wetstone, but I want a coarser diamond stone or set that can work fast without becoming unflat.
Budget is <110 for both 300ish and 1000ish grits. 8inch stone preferred, but wide 6 inch stone that are good quality would work too.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#16 posted 12-17-2018 01:58 AM

I think I’ll just bite the bullet and get duplicolor since I have to get a diamond stone from Amazon anyway.

Since I brought that up, is the trend 2 sided stone better than dmt duos? I have a 6000 grit wetstone, but I want a coarser diamond stone or set that can work fast without becoming unflat.
Budget is <110 for both 300ish and 1000ish grits. 8inch stone preferred, but wide 6 inch stone that are good quality would work too.

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

View corelz125's profile

corelz125

850 posts in 1484 days


#17 posted 12-17-2018 02:29 AM

That one in the picture isn’t that bad at all. As a user I wouldn’t go crazy stripping and painting. I would just knock the rust off the sole and sides.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#18 posted 12-17-2018 05:19 PM



That one in the picture isn t that bad at all. As a user I wouldn t go crazy stripping and painting. I would just knock the rust off the sole and sides.

- corelz125


Sooo, is it safe to assume you live near spongebob? Lol
If that is good, I dont want anything to do with bad rust!
I do want it to look good, but I’m thinking about just clear coating it after a good cleaning. I was planning on painting, but that japanning is stinking on there!

-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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HokieKen

10913 posts in 1646 days


#19 posted 12-17-2018 08:29 PM

That’s not japanning. That’s a Millers Falls made Craftsman. They never used japanning (that I’m aware of at least). That’s a baked-on enamel. For me, sandblasting is the way to remove it. Fresh wire brush on a grinder will likely get the job done too.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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corelz125

850 posts in 1484 days


#20 posted 12-17-2018 08:49 PM

This was a rusted plane. Maybe it was spongebobs grandfathers.

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Sanderguy777

189 posts in 1710 days


#21 posted 12-18-2018 08:27 PM



This was a rusted plane. Maybe it was spongebobs grandfathers.

Point taken. Though the sole on mine had 1/4” of rust when I found it. The photo is after a handheld wire brush so not as bad as originally.

- corelz125


-- Marc Spagnuolo (standing in front of clamp wall): I think I need a few more . Me (owner of at least 8 clamps):.....?

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corelz125

850 posts in 1484 days


#22 posted 12-18-2018 08:36 PM

This is the after,I left the japanning as it was and sanded the sides and flattened the sole with sand paper.

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