LumberJocks

All Replies on Jet table saw alignment, new member

  • Advertise with us
View Alexbringsthewood's profile

Jet table saw alignment, new member

by Alexbringsthewood
posted 12-10-2018 08:10 PM


16 replies so far

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10746 posts in 1618 days


#1 posted 12-10-2018 09:12 PM

I have never used a HF indicator but I know lots of people do. Is it the dial indicator itself that is the issue or is it the miter gauge bar having slop in the slot that is the issue?

If its the indicator itself, I can give you several good brands you can look for on ebay if you want a really good but older indicator. Or, newer brands like iGaging make “good enough” precision instruments at affordable prices. But indicators are a whole can of worms we’ll open only if necessary ;-)

If it’s a matter of slop in the miter gauge there is a cheaper and better solution. Get a good quality, adjustable miter bar so you can adjust any and all slop out of it. Then make a block that you can FIRMLY & RIGIDLY attach your indicator to and bolt the block to the miter bar.

I have a setup like this that I used to align my table saw and it worked wonderfully. Welcome to LJs!

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Alexbringsthewood's profile

Alexbringsthewood

6 posts in 282 days


#2 posted 12-10-2018 09:49 PM

I believe it may be slop, i tried keeping it “pushed” right the whole time.
Would you recommend digital or older type indicator?

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10746 posts in 1618 days


#3 posted 12-10-2018 09:52 PM

I personally prefer a dial over digital but that’s just personal preference. I’d be more concerned with the quality of the manufacturer.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Alexbringsthewood's profile

Alexbringsthewood

6 posts in 282 days


#4 posted 12-10-2018 10:03 PM

So what would recommend for a new tool? A-line, master gauge or woodpeckers. Those are the three i can find that look “quality”

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8324 posts in 3855 days


#5 posted 12-10-2018 10:16 PM

I own a dial indicator, but have also had success using very low tech devices like a combination square or a brass screw on a stick. It’s not hard to get within a couple of thousandths with any of these devices….with wood working, that’s really as close as it needs to be.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Alexbringsthewood's profile

Alexbringsthewood

6 posts in 282 days


#6 posted 12-11-2018 03:56 AM

So i think i may have gotten it.
I was able to make a temporary jig on my mitre gauge.

Pic 1: starting point at 0 (front)
Pic 2: 6/1000th of an inch off (back)
Pic 3: returned to 0 (not 100% but damn close)

Is that what you see?

View MikeDilday's profile

MikeDilday

258 posts in 938 days


#7 posted 12-11-2018 01:03 PM

View Dustin's profile

Dustin

693 posts in 1220 days


#8 posted 12-11-2018 01:24 PM



Just get the Woodpeckers Table Saw Gauge and be done with it.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodpeckers-saw-gauge?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3b3gBRDAARIsAL6D-N-aZiGo8yFVX8G6UCgmCkpfEIJuJResmwpqIsmSHKbNV7cUVEZflNsaAmy_EALw_wcB

- MikeDilday

Mike, I think there’s a lot of folks (myself included) who would rather spend that $90 elsewhere, particularly when this is a seldom used tool where, as KnottScott mentioned, low tech approaches work.

Before I got a dial indicator, I used the combination square method he mentioned. When I finally got a dial indicator, the setting using the combination square was only 0.002” off, which is just fine.

-- "Ladies, if your husband says he'll get to it, he'll get to it. No need to remind him about it every 6 months."

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10746 posts in 1618 days


#9 posted 12-11-2018 01:50 PM

Looking good Alex. Make sure the back of the blade is further from your fence than the front and not visa-versa. Otherwise the back of the blade will pinch your work and burn the wood at best or cause a kickback at worst.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Alexbringsthewood's profile

Alexbringsthewood

6 posts in 282 days


#10 posted 12-11-2018 02:01 PM

Just to double check, if the dial goes backwards, like it does in the pics, the back of the blade is further “in” than the front, which is likely why i have burning on the wood and crooked cuts?

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10746 posts in 1618 days


#11 posted 12-11-2018 02:10 PM

Yes. Assuming your fence is on the right side of the blade, the back of the blade is closer to the fence. In order to get good, clean, repeatable results (and do so safely) you’ll want to adjust so the back of the blade is further from the fence.

Be aware, this assumes your fence is perfectly parallel to the miter slot. You should check that with the indicator as well.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Alexbringsthewood's profile

Alexbringsthewood

6 posts in 282 days


#12 posted 12-11-2018 02:37 PM

Thank you for all the advice. I just purchased a woodpeckers saw gauge, it was on sale and i think this is something i really need.

On the saw, 6/1000th is pretty far out of alignment right?

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10746 posts in 1618 days


#13 posted 12-11-2018 02:46 PM



Thank you for all the advice. I just purchased a woodpeckers saw gauge, it was on sale and i think this is something i really need.

On the saw, 6/1000th is pretty far out of alignment right?

- Alexbringsthewood

Not really. As long as the back of the blade isn’t pinching the wood, you’re in good shape. When I aligned my saw after purchasing it, I aligned the blade to within .010” and called it good. You can get it closer if you want to take the time to do so but I’d be perfectly happy with .006”.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Robert's profile

Robert

3516 posts in 1960 days


#14 posted 12-11-2018 04:17 PM

Alex you can also use something like what knotscott shows + feeler gauges. It will get you plenty close enough.

You really want to get the miter slot/blade as parallel as possible. IMO you should shoot for dead on or at least within .001-.002”. Its a setting that once you get it, its done for life (usually) so its worth the effort.

Once you get that, then adjust your fence so the fence-to-blade is .003 more at the rear of the blade. Do this with the blade fully raised and use the same tooth for the measurements.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1440 posts in 3329 days


#15 posted 12-11-2018 05:18 PM



Thank you for all the advice. I just purchased a woodpeckers saw gauge, it was on sale and i think this is something i really need.
- Alexbringsthewood

I set up my saw for the first time with the combo square and a stick with a brass screw in the end as shown above. I got an HF dial indicator and did a little better with that, but when I stumbled on the WP saw gauge on sale for $50 I grabbed one and absolutely love it for the speed and accuracy, and no fussing about, yes there are other was to get the job done but time is money too.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

556 posts in 2211 days


#16 posted 12-12-2018 03:19 PM

I’m not sure if a PALS kit will fit on your saw—but the one I installed on my Jet tablesaw makes it easier to get accurate trunnion adjustments.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com