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All Replies on kreg miter gauge and sawstop -- attention to details

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View trsnider's profile

kreg miter gauge and sawstop -- attention to details

by trsnider
posted 12-09-2018 12:06 AM


17 replies so far

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1197 posts in 1903 days


#1 posted 12-09-2018 12:33 AM

Just an FYI…any metal hitting the blade will most likely trigger the brake system, so it’s not only the Kreg Miter system, in case you have any other system made out of metal or any lumber that could have nails, staples, or whatnot in them. I watched so many videos before getting the SS that I’m paranoid in checking for rogue staples or nails in my lumber before running them through just because of the potential expensive mistake that would ensue. Good luck in your future work (and yes, the table saw sled will be one of those “why didn’t I build this first” kind of project. I waited on my first table saw and regretted waiting; built one relatively quickly when I got my SS and it is amazing to use).

View EugdOT's profile

EugdOT

283 posts in 919 days


#2 posted 12-09-2018 01:16 AM

Putting it in bypass helps a lot to avoid tripping it when in doubt bypass it. Then cut anything you want just don’t forget that the safety is off

View MikeDilday's profile

MikeDilday

250 posts in 823 days


#3 posted 12-09-2018 03:49 AM



Putting it in bypass helps a lot to avoid tripping it when in doubt bypass it. Then cut anything you want just don’t forget that the safety is off

- EugdOT

Putting it in bypass isn’t good for the Kreg miter or your hand if you have an accident. I only use bypass when I am cutting questionable wood like tree branches.

-- Michael Dilday, Suffolk, Va.

View MikeDilday's profile

MikeDilday

250 posts in 823 days


#4 posted 12-09-2018 03:50 AM

Actually I’ve done that very thing twice. Hmmm. I also tripped it with a tree branch making a cupcake stand for my daughters wedding. Three times for me. Now I keep a spare brake and blade on hand. I think I will start being a little more careful and make sure I am clear of the blade when I make angle cuts.

-- Michael Dilday, Suffolk, Va.

View trsnider's profile

trsnider

128 posts in 2374 days


#5 posted 12-09-2018 02:36 PM

The bypass idea is great, considering that I had forgot about that capability.

View MikeDilday's profile

MikeDilday

250 posts in 823 days


#6 posted 12-09-2018 02:46 PM


The bypass idea is great, considering that I had forgot about that capability.

- trsnider

If you bypass it what happens if your miter gauge hits the blade? Or worse your hand hits the blade? The miter gauge costs more than the brake, at least mine does.

-- Michael Dilday, Suffolk, Va.

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

3100 posts in 2536 days


#7 posted 12-09-2018 02:59 PM

Aluminum taper jigs don’t play well with a sawstop either.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2748 posts in 3247 days


#8 posted 12-09-2018 03:51 PM

Yep, Incra gauges don’t seem to do well either when they are run into the blade. Don’t ask me how I know…

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View pontic's profile

pontic

693 posts in 972 days


#9 posted 12-09-2018 04:11 PM

saw stop should try to develop some type of reactive ground on the system one that is keyed to your bodies capacitive resistance. This could be done by pirating the software and circuitry from the Laser surgery systems.There are a lot of old ones,and parts lying around in the hospitals and used medical supply offices. Those systems have a tunable safety sensor based on the doctors body resistance/capacitancethat turns itoff when his body or hands touch the fire port of the laser. They could make something like that so it would only work when the operator touched it.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2211 posts in 2162 days


#10 posted 12-09-2018 06:49 PM

I hope you guys don’t think the Aluminum fence is a sacrificial fence. I had two on my unisaw and thought they were great. I do know when the blade gets tilted the fence needs to slide back.

-- Aj

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10858 posts in 1850 days


#11 posted 12-09-2018 08:17 PM

Ditto

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View MikeDilday's profile

MikeDilday

250 posts in 823 days


#12 posted 12-09-2018 10:56 PM

Everybody keeps talking like they don’t want the saw brake to activate when it hits a steel or aluminum fence. I don’t understand why you would want the blade to keep spinning at over 3,000 RPM when it hits metal. You definitely don’t want to destroy an expensive fence and you don’t want pieces of metal flying around the room either. The solution is try not to hit metal but if you do be thankful that you at least saved your fence and didn’t get hurt. Last time I did it I had to spend $70 for the brake but I saved a $140 miter gauge. Either way the blade is destroyed.

-- Michael Dilday, Suffolk, Va.

View edapp's profile

edapp

258 posts in 1793 days


#13 posted 12-10-2018 01:02 PM

Why are you running the aluminum fence into the blade anyway? Scoot the aluminum away from the blade and use a sacrificial board when necessary…. True for any type of saw.

I have my incra miter setup far enough from the blade to be able to run a sharkguard overhead DC and they all play very well together.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

2633 posts in 938 days


#14 posted 12-10-2018 02:49 PM

I don’t have a weeney cutter so I’m not sure what is being said here? Is this just the presence of metal in the miter slot, or are you attempting to saw up a piece of metal?

If it’s the presence of metal, what is the stock miter gauge made of?

If it’s the later, I would think a moment with a dry (non powered) run through may be in order maybe??

-- Think safe, be safe

View Monty151's profile

Monty151

40 posts in 205 days


#15 posted 12-10-2018 03:32 PM

Weeney Cutter LMAO

View edapp's profile

edapp

258 posts in 1793 days


#16 posted 12-10-2018 04:00 PM



I don t have a weeney cutter so I m not sure what is being said here? Is this just the presence of metal in the miter slot, or are you attempting to saw up a piece of metal?

If it s the presence of metal, what is the stock miter gauge made of?

If it s the later, I would think a moment with a dry (non powered) run through may be in order maybe??

- therealSteveN

Haha! Metal contacting the blade is the issue. There is nothing special about the miter slot on a weeny cutter.

Its funny because a weeny cutter is the only tablesaw that wont cut a weeny.

View edapp's profile

edapp

258 posts in 1793 days


#17 posted 12-10-2018 04:04 PM



saw stop should try to develop some type of reactive ground on the system one that is keyed to your bodies capacitive resistance. This could be done by pirating the software and circuitry from the Laser surgery systems.There are a lot of old ones,and parts lying around in the hospitals and used medical supply offices. Those systems have a tunable safety sensor based on the doctors body resistance/capacitancethat turns itoff when his body or hands touch the fire port of the laser. They could make something like that so it would only work when the operator touched it.

- pontic

OR you could just not cut metal with the saw. I have only had mine for 18 months or so but have not yet forgotten that THE ENTIRE POINT OF BUYING THE SAW IS THIS FEATURE! Also, there is an easily operated bypass feature to let you cut metal if you need to. Also, there is a test feature that will let you know if what you are going to cut is going to trigger the brake or not. I thought of it as foolproof. But maybe it’ll get me one day too.

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