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View Mark Shultz's profile

Buffing compounds

by Mark Shultz
posted 12-08-2018 03:58 PM


4 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

11483 posts in 3786 days


#1 posted 12-08-2018 04:36 PM

On stabilized wood, it should work. However, if you plan to work through the three sticks of rouge, I’d get three of the same sized pads, and dedicate one to each stick.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Mark Shultz's profile

Mark Shultz

117 posts in 2747 days


#2 posted 12-08-2018 04:39 PM

Thanks. So I can go straight from sanding (800grit) to the sticks?

View Mark Shultz's profile

Mark Shultz

117 posts in 2747 days


#3 posted 12-08-2018 06:52 PM

I guess you need to fill the wood pores first! the brown compound filled the pores!

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1401 posts in 3118 days


#4 posted 12-09-2018 06:51 PM

Lets get something straight. If the wood is unfinished, you don’t buff. If the wood is finished, that is, it has a coating on it like lacquer, shellac, or similar, you can buff it.

If the wood is unfinished, sand it until it is as smooth as you want it, then BURNISH it by rubbing it with wood shavings (wood on wood).

If the wood is finished, you can use almost any LIQUID BUFFING COMPOUND containing a very fine abrasive. Personally, I use Turtle Wax buffing compound for car finishes as it is inexpensive and can be found in many places. If you are POWER BUFFING, be aware that the speed of the power buffer must be slow as heat buildup will melt and smear most finishes.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

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