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View Tooch's profile

CA glue for finishing pens?

by Tooch
posted 12-07-2018 03:25 PM


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64 replies

64 replies so far

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#1 posted 12-07-2018 04:19 PM

ca glue makes a great finish ive used it a lot.as far as sticking to the bushings they make special plastic end caps but ive never worried about it and never had one i couldn’t pop off.stick fast makes a line of products just for pen finishing,glue,buffing compounds and polish.check out you tube there are many video’s with great tutorials.for people that actually use pens a lot it a much more durable finish than the wipe on finishes like shellawax.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View JADobson's profile

JADobson

1445 posts in 2594 days


#2 posted 12-07-2018 04:43 PM

Yes the bushings stick but they pop off easy enough. I usually run a razor blade around the intersection just to ensure a straight break but I’ve never had any trouble. The finish is very durable. Mine has been in my pocket or bag for years and is holding up just fine.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#3 posted 12-07-2018 06:54 PM

You are going to love pen turning!! First go to International Assn. of Penturners and join. Everything you need to know and every question you might ask has been addressed there. I’d suggest you spend a few days watching youTube vids to give you an idea of what people do. Some of my favorites are RJB Woodturner, I think Bob has close to 400 vids posted, Tim at Wooden Whimsies and Ed Brown of Exotic Blanks. They all have good quality instructional vids from beginner to advanced and they also show their screw ups. You can even pick up the phone and call Tim or Ed and they will answer the phone and answer questions and they can sell you what you need. Awesome customer service from them both. You will then get sucked into the thousands of vids that are on youTube.

Watch a lot of vids. There are many ways and techniques to do everything so I’d spend a week just watching videos and reading the forums on IAP before deciding what will work best for you. i.e I bought a barrel trimmer before realizing that I liked the disc sander method better.

I did the same thing and got the EEE and Shellawax thing before I realized that they are only for pens that you don’t intend on putting CA on. You can make Shellawax at home. Don’t buy the EEE yet. It’s expensive. Learn the CA technique first. Haven’t used either in 2 years. It’s the way to treat bare wood instead of using CA. 98.325% of people use some form of CA. :-)

Feel free to PM me and we can chat.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Dustin's profile

Dustin

695 posts in 1223 days


#4 posted 12-07-2018 06:55 PM

CA all the way. I used to use the BLO/CA method, but found that multiple coats of thin CA gave me better results. Once I separate them from the bushing, I carefully run the ends over some 320 grit sandpaper on a flat surface to make sure any gunk is scraped off and the ends are flush.

The other perk is that CA buffs up really nicely. I just finished these rings with StickFast thin CA, and used the Beall Buffing system (just the tripoli and white diamond wheels), and they came away shining (pics don’t do them justice).

-- "Ladies, if your husband says he'll get to it, he'll get to it. No need to remind him about it every 6 months."

View JADobson's profile

JADobson

1445 posts in 2594 days


#5 posted 12-07-2018 07:09 PM

I use these micro mesh sanding pads to get the shine: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=62127&cat=1,250,43243,43245

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

View RobHannon's profile

RobHannon

304 posts in 1013 days


#6 posted 12-07-2018 07:15 PM

I am a fan of CA on wood then buffed with Hut PPP. Wear gloves if you are messy like me. Thin CA is water thin and will go everywhere. Face shield too if you are applying it with the lathe on. Glue on your face makes for a rough shave the next morning.

Do be cautious with friction polish on CA. Too heavy handed and you can burn it. Gets a milky/mottled look to it and you are stuck with sanding back down to the wood and starting over.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3881 posts in 1870 days


#7 posted 12-07-2018 07:32 PM

Here is a good starter set for giving it a try. It comes with polishing compound to achieve a really nice finish. I finished my beer mug projects as my first attempt and it is works well for larger items finished on the lathe as well. Definitely get some nitril gloves and a face shield.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#8 posted 12-07-2018 07:44 PM


Here is a good starter set for giving it a try. It comes with polishing compound to achieve a really nice finish. I finished my beer mug projects as my first attempt and it is works well for larger items finished on the lathe as well. Definitely get some nitril gloves and a face shield.

- Lazyman


+1 its what i normally use.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#9 posted 12-07-2018 09:08 PM

Thin CA is water thin and will go everywhere. Face shield too if you are applying it with the lathe on. Glue on your face makes for a rough shave the next morning.
- RobHannon

I’m relatively new at it myself but the lathe shouldn’t be running fast enough for CA to spray when it’s applied. 300-400 rpm max. Otherwise in addition to spraying all over it will leave lines in the CA as it spins requiring more sanding work. Then, after you get good at the regular CA technique try this. After you get good at the basics try using a skew for the last part of the turn. It will leave as smooth a surface as 400 grit paper saving you a lot of time and reducing catches and tearout. I got a Benjamin's Best from Ed. Best $13 investment going. Here is the thread on IAP that I started to ask that question.

On CA I use plastic polish.

So, as is evidenced by the replies there is no right or wrong way. They all work. Play around and you will find what you like.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

9263 posts in 2811 days


#10 posted 12-07-2018 09:27 PM

CA is my go-to pen finish because it is so darn easy and results are good. Is it the bestest, shiniest ever? I don’t know because I m no turning wizzard. But it is dirt simple to get right.

I use whatever cheap CA I can get my hands on. Usually little tubes of Crazy Glue purchased in 10 packs on sale at Home Cheapo.

I go through the grits to super fine micro mesh, blow off with air, wipe with laquer thinner and let dry a couple minutes.

I cut up cheap paper towels into patches, fold up into small dabbers ~1”x2” and then at 300 rpm I put several generous drops on the dabber, then immediately apply a line of CA to the pen and wipe it in. You’re only wiping to prevent build up ridges, so just go back and forth two or three times.

Here s the most important part…. let it dry a solid 5 to 10 minutes before doing the next coat. If it’s still tacky when you do the next coat, you just ruined it and will have to re-turn the pen to remove the finish and do it again. I do about 5 coats and then let it dry 20 min. and remove from the lathe. As noted, it will stick to the bushings, but it’s not a strong bond and will easilly pop.

Because you re finishing on the lathe, it can hold up production, so I set about prepping blanks and assembling pens in the intervals when I m waiting for the CA to dry solid. I can finish about 4 pens with one of the small tubes.

I’ve used medium and thin viscosity CA glue and much prefer the thin. I have activator, but don’t use it. Don’t like the way it feels or smells and it’s expensive.

Note… CA glue burns your nose and/or eyes if you get to close to it while it’s curing (i.e. to inspect the finish close up). Keep your distance.

I don’t use gloves, I just use each little dabber one time and then throw it in the trash. I alway managet to get a drop or two on the tip of my index finger and thumb, but that’s not really a big deal to me.

Try it, you’ll like it.

- Mainiac Matt

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

9263 posts in 2811 days


#11 posted 12-07-2018 09:31 PM



CA is my go-to pen finish because it is so darn easy and results are good. Is it the bestest, shiniest ever? I don t know because I m no turning wizzard. But it is dirt simple to get right.

I use whatever cheap CA I can get my hands on. Usually little tubes of Crazy Glue purchased ind 10 packs on sale.

I go through the grits to super fine micro mesh, blow off with air, wipe with laquer thinner and let dry a couple minutes.

I cut up cheap paper towels into patches, fold up into small dabbers ~1”x2” and then at 300 rpm I put several generous drops on the dabber, then immediately apply a line of CA to the pen and wipe it in. You re only wiping to prevent build up ridges, so just go back and forth two or three times.

Here s the most important part…. let it dry a solid 5 to 10 minutes before doing the next coat. If it s still tacky when you do the next coat, you just ruined it and will have to re-turn the pen to remove the finish and do it again. I do about 5 coats and then let it dry 20 min. and remove from the lathe. As noted, it will stick to the bushings, but it s not a strong bond and will easilly pop.

Because you re finishing on the lathe, it can hold up production, so I set about prepping blanks and assembling pens in the intervals when I m waiting for the CA to dry solid. I can finish about 4 pens with one of the small tubes.

I’ve used medium and thin viscosity CA glue and much prefer the thin. I have activator, but don’t use it. Don’t like the way it feels or smells and it’s expensive.

Note… CA glue burns your nose and/or eyes if you get to close to it while it’s curing. Keep your distance.

I don’t use gloves, I just use each little dabber one time and then throw it in the trash. I alway managet to get a drop or two on the tip of my index finger and thumb, but that’s not really a big deal to me.

Try it, you ll like it.

- Mainiac Matt


-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#12 posted 12-07-2018 10:19 PM

no need to let dry 5-10 minutes just a spray of activator and its ready for the next step in 5-10 seconds,i run through all the steps and have a finish in 5 minutes.ive never had a problem this way.a can lasts a long time and will do dozens of pens.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#13 posted 12-08-2018 12:22 AM


no need to let dry 5-10 minutes just a spray of activator and its ready for the next step in 5-10 seconds,i run through all the steps and have a finish in 5 minutes.ive never had a problem this way.a can lasts a long time and will do dozens of pens.

- pottz


Yes, but go light on the activator as it will cause the glue to frost up.

That’s what I mean when I say there is no right or wrong way. One person says “let it dry”, another says “use activator” another says “use activator then let it dry” and another will say “use activator and let the whole thing dry over night”. Some people love BLO under their CA and some say it ruins the pen. Believe it or not all of those methods work just fine. :-)

P.S. As much as I love ljs, the site to be on for pen turning is IAP. That’s all they do over there. Most of the pen turners here on ljs are on IAP also.

Good luck and welcome to the club.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Mrowell's profile

Mrowell

280 posts in 1622 days


#14 posted 12-08-2018 02:41 AM

I’ve used EEE, shellawax and CA glue all with good results. I think it really depends on the look and feel your going for. CA tend to leave more of a plastic feel but is highly durable and can provide a high gloss glass like finish.

As others have said CA can stick to bushings but usually comes apart easily by running a razor blade along the seam between the bushing and blank. You can also get finishing bushings that don’t stick, I’ve got a couple pairs and love them. You can get them many places but here is one link to them so you know what your looking for (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/hold-fast-non-stick-bushings-for-ca-pen-finishing?gclid=CjwKCAiA0ajgBRA4EiwA9gFOR4ijpicRK2S8n9vDAFJ_hPL-jWhmrcfvjUOuiGFErZKV-IKL-YwjchoCB4IQAvD_BwE)

-- Matt R

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#15 posted 12-08-2018 02:44 AM

+1

Or, you can make them yourself as they are just HDPE which is melted down plastic milk bottles or a dollar store cutting board.

I’ve been shaving 1/2” slices off of my wife’s big cutting board for the last 2 years and she still hasn’t noticed. Although a few months ago she was wondering why it all of a sudden was able to fit in the dishwasher. :-)

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#16 posted 12-08-2018 03:02 AM


no need to let dry 5-10 minutes just a spray of activator and its ready for the next step in 5-10 seconds,i run through all the steps and have a finish in 5 minutes.ive never had a problem this way.a can lasts a long time and will do dozens of pens.

- pottz

Yes, but go light on the activator as it will cause the glue to frost up.

That s what I mean when I say there is no right or wrong way. One person says “let it dry”, another says “use activator” another says “use activator then let it dry” and another will say “use activator and let the whole thing dry over night”. Some people love BLO under their CA and some say it ruins the pen. Believe it or not all of those methods work just fine. :-)

P.S. As much as I love ljs, the site to be on for pen turning is IAP. That s all they do over there. Most of the pen turners here on ljs are on IAP also.

Good luck and welcome to the club.

- Andybb


yes andy you are right and i should gave that advise,only give a light spritz,too much will make you have to sand it down and start over! and andy is right go on iap for pen turners,its the lj’s of the pen world,much better than getting advise here.although i left years ago because the B-S was far worse than anything here,if can believe that-LOL!

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#17 posted 12-08-2018 03:18 AM

^ That’s interesting. Guess because I’m a newbie I haven’t seen the BS yet. Or maybe those folks are gone.

pottz is right. Read what we have said then switch over to IAP.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#18 posted 12-08-2018 04:20 AM



^ That s interesting. Guess because I m a newbie I haven t seen the BS yet. Or maybe those folks are gone.

pottz is right. Read what we have said then switch over to IAP.

- Andybb


well i gott say it was probably 8-10 years ago when i got off their siite because the “locals” got too much to deal with,bickering and cat fights,much worse than anything here by far.but it gave me a huge amount of info and knowledge about pen making.where its at today i dont know,so definetely check it out,because thats all they do.hey just enjoy and have fun making pens,if ya screw up its what,10 bucks?

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

23218 posts in 3588 days


#19 posted 12-08-2018 02:58 PM

I only made one pen in my life, but this post was most interesting and, Andy, I saved the IAP site.
I have a lot of buddies that turn pens they do use thin CA and it really shines. When I do small things like my awls, I use EEE and Shellawax and I love the results, too. I think it is all personal preference and you just have to try them to see first hand which one suits your way of working and gives the result you like.

Thank you all for all the comments and good leads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers and Merry Christmas to all you LJ’s…....................................Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1969 days


#20 posted 12-08-2018 04:05 PM


I ve been shaving 1/2” slices off of my wife s big cutting board for the last 2 years and she still hasn t noticed. Although a few months ago she was wondering why it all of a sudden was able to fit in the dishwasher. :-)

- Andybb

Hahahaha

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Richard's profile

Richard

11298 posts in 3515 days


#21 posted 12-09-2018 01:09 AM



CA is my go-to pen finish because it is so darn easy and results are good. Is it the bestest, shiniest ever? I don t know because I m no turning wizzard. But it is dirt simple to get right.

I use whatever cheap CA I can get my hands on. Usually little tubes of Crazy Glue purchased in 10 packs on sale at Home Cheapo.

I go through the grits to super fine micro mesh, blow off with air, wipe with laquer thinner and let dry a couple minutes.

I cut up cheap paper towels into patches, fold up into small dabbers ~1”x2” and then at 300 rpm I put several generous drops on the dabber, then immediately apply a line of CA to the pen and wipe it in. You re only wiping to prevent build up ridges, so just go back and forth two or three times.

Here s the most important part…. let it dry a solid 5 to 10 minutes before doing the next coat. If it s still tacky when you do the next coat, you just ruined it and will have to re-turn the pen to remove the finish and do it again. I do about 5 coats and then let it dry 20 min. and remove from the lathe. As noted, it will stick to the bushings, but it s not a strong bond and will easilly pop.

Because you re finishing on the lathe, it can hold up production, so I set about prepping blanks and assembling pens in the intervals when I m waiting for the CA to dry solid. I can finish about 4 pens with one of the small tubes.

I ve used medium and thin viscosity CA glue and much prefer the thin. I have activator, but don t use it. Don t like the way it feels or smells and it s expensive.

Note… CA glue burns your nose and/or eyes if you get to close to it while it s curing (i.e. to inspect the finish close up). Keep your distance.

I don t use gloves, I just use each little dabber one time and then throw it in the trash. I alway managet to get a drop or two on the tip of my index finger and thumb, but that s not really a big deal to me.

Try it, you ll like it.

- Mainiac Matt

- Mainiac Matt

+1 on this method!

Rick S.

-- Richard (Ontario, CANADA)

View Tooch's profile

Tooch

2011 posts in 2359 days


#22 posted 12-09-2018 02:44 AM

Thanks so much for all the information! The most interesting thing I discovered was that Jim Jakosh only turned 1 pen in his life

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#23 posted 12-09-2018 03:05 AM


I don t use gloves, I just use each little dabber one time and then throw it in the trash. I alway managet to get a drop or two on the tip of my index finger and thumb, but that s not really a big deal to me.
- Mainiac Matt

What’s funny is that after peeling the CA off of my thumb my iPhone doesn’t recognize my finger print any more for about a week until the skin grows back.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Andre's profile

Andre

2754 posts in 2289 days


#24 posted 12-09-2018 08:00 AM



Thanks so much for all the information! The most interesting thing I discovered was that Jim Jakosh only turned 1 pen in his life

- Tooch

Actually it was a pencil:) page 18 on his projects! Finished a couple of pens with CA, okay but finally found some Carnauba hard wax, like the finish it gives better! Also did some with OSMOS which is nice but very time consuming.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#25 posted 12-10-2018 04:54 PM

I forgot to mention the main reason I enjoy turning pens. It is the most stress relieving and therapeutic wood working activity I can do. Different than a project that can take months to come to fruition. I can go into the shop (that my wife, for some reason continues to call the garage) and know that within a couple of hours I can hold a finished pen in my hand to get a little mini feeling of satisfaction of creating something nice, even if it’s only to give away to a friend.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Dustin's profile

Dustin

695 posts in 1223 days


#26 posted 12-10-2018 05:00 PM



I forgot to mention the main reason I enjoy turning pens. It is the most stress relieving and therapeutic wood working activity I can do. Different than a project that can take months to come to fruition. I can go into the shop that my wife, (who for some reason continues to call the garage) and know that within a couple of hours I can hold a finished pen in my hand to get a little mini feeling of satisfaction of creating something nice, even if it s only to give away to a friend.

- Andybb

Bingo! Small lathe projects offer a great sense of near-immediate satisfaction, and I’ll work hard for an excuse to go piddle around turning on a lazy afternoon.

-- "Ladies, if your husband says he'll get to it, he'll get to it. No need to remind him about it every 6 months."

View Andre's profile

Andre

2754 posts in 2289 days


#27 posted 12-10-2018 06:03 PM

Not to mention the wonderful smell of Olivewood on the Lathe!

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#28 posted 12-10-2018 06:54 PM

anyone ever turn camphor wood,great when you have congestion.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Tooch's profile

Tooch

2011 posts in 2359 days


#29 posted 12-10-2018 11:14 PM

Do acrylic blanks get finished the same way? Or do they just get buffed out?

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#30 posted 12-10-2018 11:21 PM


Do acrylic blanks get finished the same way? Or do they just get buffed out?

- Tooch


Both. Some folks just buff them. Some do CA like wood. Haven’t done an acrylic for a few months but told myself that next time I would try just buffing and not use CA. Had been using CA (like I said, I’m new too) just cuz I didn’t know any better. When I asked over on IAP I got the, “up to you” response. Then naturally somebody said they always use CA and someone else said they have never used CA on acrylic then the fight ensued.

Just like everything else, they both work. Probably also depends on the acrylic. There are different kinds of acrylic plus different types of alumilite used when casting your own blanks. As always, YMMV. Split the blank in half and CA one and not the other side by side. See what tickles your fancy.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#31 posted 12-10-2018 11:23 PM


Do acrylic blanks get finished the same way? Or do they just get buffed out?

- Tooch


no ca for acrylic they get polished out through several steps,one of the best is micro mesh used with polishing compounds that will give you a glass like polished surface.never heard of using ca on acrylics before.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#32 posted 12-10-2018 11:32 PM

^ See what I mean. :-)

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#33 posted 12-10-2018 11:38 PM

i checked out the pen turners forums and it seems quite a few do use ca,but think about it your putting a plastic finish on plastic ?

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#34 posted 12-10-2018 11:45 PM


i checked out the pen turners forums and it seems quite a few do use ca,but think about it your putting a plastic finish on plastic ?

- pottz


^ See what I mean. :-)

For instance, There are times when you resin cast a wood and alumilite blank. I apply CA to those otherwise the wood would be bare.

Pen turning is very forgiving and hard to screw up and easy to fix. Blank explodes? Find the piece that came off, glue it back on, add a little sawdust, sand and go back over it with CA and never see the difference.

Just like some people swear by CA for gluing blanks. Use medium or thick for that and use plenty of it. I stopped using CA for gluing tubes in because it seemed that the ones that came apart on the lathe were because the tube and the blank weren’t adhered to each other. I use Gorilla glue and let it dry over night. It reacts with water so I wipe the inside of the tube with a wet Q tip, put plumbers putty in one end, coat the tube with glue, stick it in one end while twisting then pull it back out then coat with glue again and push it home through the other end. Haven’t had a blank come apart since I started doing that. BUT, others swear by epoxy and still others stick with CA.

10 people, 10 methods. All good.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#35 posted 12-10-2018 11:56 PM

i checked out the pen turners forums and it seems quite a few do use ca,but think about it your putting a plastic finish on plastic ?

- pottz

^ See what I mean. :-)
.
For instance, There are times when you resin cast a wood and alumilite blank. I apply CA to those otherwise the wood would be bare.

- Andybb


your right for doing this type of pen it would work great.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Tooch's profile

Tooch

2011 posts in 2359 days


#36 posted 12-11-2018 12:47 AM

Found out that this is a dangerous hobby to have when there is a Rockler store 5 minutes from my house… Just dropped close to $200.

But, they will all be turned into Christmas gifts Soo I think it’s ok ….. Right?.

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

View Tooch's profile

Tooch

2011 posts in 2359 days


#37 posted 12-11-2018 12:51 AM

To be fair, most of that was investments in drill bits, bushings, CA debonder/accelerator and other supplies that the kids at school also need.

It’s fun to see them get excited for this project because many of them have ordered different kits to do for themselves, but they don’t realize all the extra “stuff” that is also required. Also to be fair, neither did I.

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3881 posts in 1870 days


#38 posted 12-11-2018 12:53 AM



Found out that this is a dangerous hobby to have when there is a Rockler store 5 minutes from my house… Just dropped close to $200.

But, they will all be turned into Christmas gifts Soo I think it s ok ….. Right?.

- Tooch

Only if you buy a few more tools to finish them.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#39 posted 12-11-2018 01:23 AM


Found out that this is a dangerous hobby to have when there is a Rockler store 5 minutes from my house… Just dropped close to $200.

But, they will all be turned into Christmas gifts Soo I think it s ok ….. Right?.

- Tooch

You might consider taking those bits back to Rockler and buying this set from HF or this one from Home Depot and download a drill bit conversion chart. They’re all in there. The H Depot set even has the lettered drill bits. Very handy.

As you have probably already figured out by now, all of Rockler’s pen kits are made by Penn State Industries and are also distributed by other places under other kit names. Actually, including Penn State kits, they are all made in China or Taiwan. Penn State lists over 800 kits in their catalog, but they don’t make ‘em.

Here are a couple of handy charts to keep at your finger tips.
PSI Conversion
Rockler Conversion

Also, download the IAP app that is a great reference for just about every kit made sorted by everything including bushing size and copies of the instructions. It’s a few years old now but still covers 95% of the available kits.

And I disagree with the notion that you should start with the Slimline pens. Yes they are cheap but they are unforgiving. I like the Sierra/Manhattan/Gatsby pens or even the comfort pens as they have a little more meat on them in terms of wood thickness and size.

OK, now I’m done. You’ll just have to watch 10K youtube vids like the rest of us. There is no shortage of them.

Good luck. Feel free to PM. Tools are a whole ‘nuther subject.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View pottz's profile

pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#40 posted 12-11-2018 01:55 AM

dangerous-what do you mean?

im not gonna show you whats in the cabinet under the lathe though.
its all good clean fun.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#41 posted 12-11-2018 01:57 AM

Looks like some burl up in the corner!

Blanks!? Blanks!? We don’t need no stinking blanks!

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#42 posted 12-11-2018 02:03 AM

good eye andy,oregon maple burl,one of my fav’s.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#43 posted 12-11-2018 02:09 AM


good eye andy,oregon maple burl,one of my fav s.

- pottz


I manage a Jag/Land Rover Dealership. Somebody asked me if I knew where they could get a replacement walnut burl shift knob. I had to laugh out loud. Uh, yeah. In my garage. :-)

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#44 posted 12-11-2018 04:27 AM

hey tell em for the right price…....

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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Andybb

2030 posts in 1086 days


#45 posted 12-11-2018 04:54 AM

Already did. $150 per. Now I have to figure out how to make them. 2 orders already. Gotta practice on some pine.

Tooch sorry for hi jacking your thread but I think you got some good info. Show us some pens.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Tooch

2011 posts in 2359 days


#46 posted 12-11-2018 10:20 AM

I don’t consider this thread hijacked, just “content adjusted”.

Either way, no worries.

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

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Dustin

695 posts in 1223 days


#47 posted 12-11-2018 01:35 PM

FWIW, I’m also in the Sierra/Gatsby camp with Andy. In addition to more meat to work with, you get more surface area to show off the wood, and the majority of folks I’ve gifted these to prefer a heftier pen.

-- "Ladies, if your husband says he'll get to it, he'll get to it. No need to remind him about it every 6 months."

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RobHannon

304 posts in 1013 days


#48 posted 12-11-2018 02:06 PM


And I disagree with the notion that you should start with the Slimline pens. Yes they are cheap but they are unforgiving. I like the Sierra/Manhattan/Gatsby pens or even the comfort pens as they have a little more meat on them in terms of wood thickness and size.

- Andybb

Unforgiving is spot on. The material is so thin on these that a little catch and your blank can break into pieces off of the tube. I just did a handful of slimlines with some hybrid resin blanks. More went into the circular file than will make it under the tree.

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Tooch

2011 posts in 2359 days


#49 posted 12-11-2018 02:17 PM

Yeah. This was my 2nd attempt… Didn’t see these knot until it was too late

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

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pottz

6008 posts in 1467 days


#50 posted 12-11-2018 03:20 PM

yeah i agree for someone doing their first pen a cigar pen would be much better but it seems they always teach newbies on slimlines,that was my first at a rockler class.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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