1 reply so far
#1 posted 12-06-2018 10:13 AM |
First and foremost is will it run. I’d bring along a chunk of something very hard to run on it, but not something dear to your heart. I would also bring along a good quality level, which can also act as a straight edge, and a machinist square to check fence angle. A good purchase would have you just replacing a belt because the motor is good. Having to shim the gibs isn’t out of the ordinary, but does the outfeed table adjust, and then come right back to where it started? Of course you need the infeed to move, unless you want to lock it at 1/16” or something, because different wood will require different depth of cut. Seller says, “it won’t run cause I don’t have the right lectric for it” I have always just assumed the motor was dead, which doesn’t have to be a deal breaker, but don’t get lopsided in the price against a new machine after you have to drop in a lot of parts. Motors aren’t cheap. It’s possible it’s just 3 phase, but are you ready for that? Again more costs if not. Murphys law says if you pass on this, another one will come along right away. It’s Murphys because if you buy the junker, because it’s all you found, it’s a natural that the next week, a perfect used machine will come along and the guy wants half what you paid for the junker. DAMHIKT I’ve had, and also swapped several 60”s good jointer, any jointer is really pretty basic, a few moving pieces, and a motor attached to blades mounted on a drum, clamshell, or cylinder. Used tool blades are usually not in good shape, if they are, and the guy has a second, or third set of sharp knives for it, he loved that machine. Not sure if you are aware of them, but a lot of energy, thoughts, tips, and info at them. OWWM Old Wood Working Machines -- Think safe, be safe |
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