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View awsum55's profile (online now)

Why spend $65 when you can spend $15

by awsum55
posted 12-04-2018 08:23 PM


24 replies so far

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

1481 posts in 1769 days


#1 posted 12-04-2018 08:31 PM

Hold up there John
You do get what you pay for – the cheap unit is rated for 15a which your dust collector probably exceeds while the other one is rated for 20a

View awsum55's profile (online now)

awsum55

504 posts in 870 days


#2 posted 12-04-2018 08:48 PM

It works fine, so what do you think might happen? I’m sure I’ve turned it on and off at least 50 times so far.

-- John D, OP, KS

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1193 posts in 1901 days


#3 posted 12-04-2018 08:56 PM



It works fine, so what do you think might happen? I m sure I ve turned it on and off at least 50 times so far.

- awsum55

There’s another thread here where someone had a heater that barely exceeded the amperage and caused the outlet and the plug to fuse and short almost starting a fire. You could see the streak on the wall of the outlet going up but thankfully stopped before it got worse.

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

1481 posts in 1769 days


#4 posted 12-04-2018 09:38 PM

Fire. 1-1/2hp DC needs a dedicated 20a circuit. The 15a device probably gets pretty hot doesn’t it? Like using a long and / or undersized extension cord.
Stay safe

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

874 posts in 3683 days


#5 posted 12-04-2018 09:43 PM

Sometimes spending $65 makes a lot more sense than spending $15, this is one of those cases.

View awsum55's profile (online now)

awsum55

504 posts in 870 days


#6 posted 12-04-2018 09:45 PM

Maybe that’s why it’s been working for me. I hate the noise, so I don’t leave it on very long. Actually I didn’t touch it to see if it was hot. Thank you for the warning, I’ll keep an eye on it.

-- John D, OP, KS

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2604 posts in 2206 days


#7 posted 12-04-2018 09:53 PM

We went through a few of those types of X-mass light controllers before getting the long ranger. They got hot and died after a while. YMMV.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View HokieKen's profile (online now)

HokieKen

9240 posts in 1500 days


#8 posted 12-04-2018 09:58 PM

The $65 one has an integral 20A fuse in the switch too.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1309 posts in 2314 days


#9 posted 12-04-2018 10:02 PM

Sounds like the Long Ranger would make a perfect gift for your wife to give you for Christmas.

View GrantA's profile

GrantA

1481 posts in 1769 days


#10 posted 12-04-2018 10:11 PM



Sounds like the Long Ranger would make a perfect gift for your wife to give you for Christmas.

- Kazooman


Yep! Point her to this thread lol

View AM420's profile

AM420

216 posts in 745 days


#11 posted 12-04-2018 10:34 PM



Sometimes spending $65 makes a lot more sense than spending $15, this is one of those cases.

- AHuxley

Still, doesn’t seem like there’s $50 worth of real difference between the two. But that’s market supply and demand pricing I guess.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

1227 posts in 1856 days


#12 posted 12-04-2018 10:46 PM

+1 Any 15A rated control won’t last very long on 1.5HP 15A motor.
Inrush currents are too high for 15A rated circuits.

My 1.5HP Delta dust collector has destroyed three of the 15A rated ivac units (2 under warranty) and melted an xmas light controller.
The issue on the iVac units is heat. The 15A rated triac inside works just fine steady state. But get it warmed up after 30-40 minutes of use, with an ambeint temp over 80-90F, and then turn it on, the inrush current fries the TRIAC inside, which then acts like a $60 fuse.

Xmas light controller I tested got very warm to touch, and If run in cold temperatures, sort of works. But use it in 70-80F ambient and the case starts to deform/melt, then it goes ‘poof’ on next random start up.
15A rated Xmas controller might work on 1HP, 12A unit; but not anything larger.

YMMV

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

874 posts in 3683 days


#13 posted 12-04-2018 10:58 PM



Still, doesn t seem like there s $50 worth of real difference between the two. But that s market supply and demand pricing I guess.

- AM420

One is a niche product and the other is a mass market item. The real difference is when the unsuitable one fails which if one is lucky just requires replacing it with another one or the more suitable product but if one isn’t so lucky the $50 will seem like a pittance.

View pottz's profile

pottz

5027 posts in 1346 days


#14 posted 12-05-2018 12:31 AM

i used to use a long ranger on my old dust collector,its made for that the cheap ones arnt,as the others have warned,dont trust the 15 dollar ones to run your collector,unless you have great fire insurance!

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

6512 posts in 3556 days


#15 posted 12-05-2018 03:20 AM

I’ve used a Long Ranger for years and years to turn on/off my dust collector…..BUT….I’ve got 200 amp service, and each major machine has its own circuit…..and each one is 20 amps….In all the years I’ve had my shop, I’ve never thrown a breaker, or had one minutes trouble with any machine tripping….My central heating and air units are on 30 amps….Don’t skimp when it comes to your shop and your safety…..!!

-- " At my age, happy hour is a 2 hour nap".....!!

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

1227 posts in 1856 days


#16 posted 12-05-2018 05:10 AM

Slightly off topic, but there a lot of DIY wireless dust controller options:

You can spend ~$45 and make your own wireless 120V 20A motor controller:
Buy something like these-
https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74
https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-JBH-4956-KO-Knockout-Hinged/dp/B005UP9YYI/

And mount one of these wireless controllers on front of box above:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WM1G27/?coliid=IQ8K70U5U75UI

Buy a couple of $1 wire strain reliefs for box to fit wire of your choice.
Use an existing plug & receptacle & wire from an extension cord to hook it up. That or buy a cheap 12/3 extension cord to use for materials, https://www.amazon.com/Thonapa-Foot-Lighted-Outdoor-Extension/dp/B07B42HXKD
Use 10/3 cord if you want 30A circuit (assuming your plug can handle it)

The contactor is rated for 120V-240v-480v and 30A, and the wireless controller is rated 240V; sooo you can make a 240V 30A wireless motor switch just by changing plugs and adding the 2nd pole wiring.

But wait, it gets better:

You can also buy a full blown 3/5/7.5 HP 1PH motor starter, like this 5HP unit:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Electric-Starter-Control-Single/dp/B00ATCCYXK
and make it wireless for $18.
The same wireless controller can press momentary button for motor starter, and make a big dust collector wireless too. :)

Please don’t ask me for wiring diagrams, if you aren’t capable of using existing WWW threads on DIY motor starters, and comfortable wiring this yourself; another diagram from me won’t help you. I do not want to be responsible for your safety. Just sharing another option.

Be safe!
Cheers.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View go4tech's profile

go4tech

23 posts in 1386 days


#17 posted 12-05-2018 06:04 AM

Will echo the good Captain.

Take the low current outdoor light device apart. Use it with a good high current (>30A) contactor and all is very well.

The one I made used a <$9 Contactor with a 120V pull-in coil with a load side rated for 240V @ 40A with a low power Outside light remote (similar yours but even lower power ~$10 on Amazon).

The 120V light switch device will work forever as a pull-in voltage switch. A 240V >30A contactor will more than handle any “Oh no Mr. Bill!” moment on the high current side. The breaker will then save the house/shop.

The good news is you now have the radio link and a low power 120V transformer to power the radio.

If you are not careful, you can spent more on a housing and receptacle plug for the Dust Collector.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

1227 posts in 1856 days


#18 posted 12-05-2018 09:08 AM


low power Outside light remote (similar yours but even lower power ~$10 on Amazon).
.
.
If you are not careful, you can spend more on a housing and receptacle plug for the Dust Collector.
- go4tech

Yes. can spend way more on plugs than actual controller.

FWIW – the reason I specifically like the $18 eMylo 2 button unit:
It uses a 120VAC supply line, and has internal power regulator for digital circuitry.
This saves money over cheaper units, space in cabinet, and reduces wiring.
All the cheaper wireless units require a separate 12/24V power supply for wireless unit. Which means you need to have external 120V receptacle nearby, and wall wart or laptop inline supply. These cost more than cost difference between units, even if you cut plugs off and wire it directly in box.

It also doesn’t require me to perform careful surgery on cheap molded xmas light cable assembly, and that is worth $8 alone. IMHO.

Cheers!

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View Tony1212's profile

Tony1212

314 posts in 2096 days


#19 posted 12-05-2018 02:24 PM

I’ve used a Christmas light remote from HD for about 3 years now. But my DC is a shop vac with a cyclone. Not nearly as much current draw, but is sure is convenient.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

View awsum55's profile (online now)

awsum55

504 posts in 870 days


#20 posted 12-05-2018 07:52 PM

I just ordered the contactor from this video. It looks like an easy fix, I’ll let you all know when I get it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcAgO_9-V_4&feature=em-comments

-- John D, OP, KS

View go4tech's profile

go4tech

23 posts in 1386 days


#21 posted 12-06-2018 03:59 AM

Your House, Your Wife, and You will be much happier over the long run.

Always glad to hear well meaning advice is understood.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

2602 posts in 935 days


#22 posted 12-06-2018 09:36 AM


There s another thread here where someone had a heater that barely exceeded the amperage and caused the outlet and the plug to fuse and short almost starting a fire. You could see the streak on the wall of the outlet going up but thankfully stopped before it got worse.

- Rayne

Of course the same can be said about many of the cheep home heaters sold every year WITHOUT the remote starter. Talk to a fireman about them, or your home owners insurance agent. Scary they can be sold as they are.

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

2602 posts in 935 days


#23 posted 12-06-2018 09:41 AM

I’m with John thinking the “starters” part is just that quick impulse to turn on the device, whatever it is. After that the device is running on it’s own connection, not the starters. So if the starter isn’t getting warm when it makes that spark?? What am I missing??

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

2602 posts in 935 days


#24 posted 12-06-2018 09:50 AM



I m with John thinking the “starters” part is just that quick impulse to turn on the device, whatever it is. After that the device is running on it s own connection, not the starters. So if the starter isn t getting warm when it makes that spark?? What am I missing?? Now using a 110 model for a 220 connection I can see some heat. Sheesh, some of those Christmas trees have a LOT of lights on them, hard to imagine a 110 load being problematic. Like anything you get a surge at startup, which smooths out quickly.

I honestly don’t know how they work. I only use 110, and 220. These guys.

Years ago I bought at great cost one of those “long rangers” it lasted about 1 week, I haven’t darkened their door since. They did NOT stand behind their product, was a 110, being used on a PC 690 router in a table. Those I Vac, I Box and all the rest came out, I’ve used nothing but, and never had a problem.

- therealSteveN


-- Think safe, be safe

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