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View Mcpowell's profile

What type of wood? I have a free supply....

by Mcpowell
posted 12-04-2018 07:31 PM


22 replies so far

View HokieKen's profile (online now)

HokieKen

10446 posts in 1594 days


#1 posted 12-04-2018 08:12 PM

The one on the right looks like Oak to me for sure. Can’t tell if it’s red or white though. White Oak is excellent for outdoor applications. Red, is not. Can’t tell at all about the one on the left. Maybe Maple? Need some closer pics showing grain and pics of end grain on both pieces to help you nail it down.

After re-reading, you say it will be under an overhang. So I assume not directly exposed to rain? If that’s the case, finish is more important than the type of wood.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3395 posts in 1029 days


#2 posted 12-04-2018 08:19 PM

I’d call the other one pine. If the one on the right is Red Oak, neither of them would be very good outdoor woods, unless they were completely and permanently covered in paint.

The areas most problematic will be the end grain, where moisture will wick up into the boards at ground contact. Some folks have pretty good luck preventing this by using something to either cap off, or raise up the leg so it’s not down where it is wet. Being under a covered porch can greatly increase life expectancy as well.

My list of woods where I don’t give a lot of thought to constant repainting, or covering with some form of coating to keep them from rotting, and just falling apart is:

Acacia
Black Locust
Cedar
Cypress
Douglas-Fir
Ipe
Redwood
Teak
White Oak

All WILL weather, and to keep them looking bright, and in some folks opinion CLEAN, you need to do some application of a product to retard that accumulation of mold, dirt, and whatever, to do so. Depending on which species you choose it could be as much work as painting the pine. For something like your BGE tables I would tend to favor Cedar, simply because it’s widely available, has the lowest normal price point, and if it isn’t expected to move (as in a chair, where it flexes a lot when you lean back) it will last a long time. On moving pieces cedar can/will yaw out where you have placed through bolts, and other fixtures of assembly. This can shorten it’s life a bit. Most of the harder woods won’t yaw out like cedar can.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Mcpowell's profile

Mcpowell

60 posts in 1345 days


#3 posted 12-04-2018 08:25 PM

Didn’t think about providing end grain pics, so here you go:

The tables would be under an overhang, but would still likely get wet from rain, if not directly then via blowing rain. However, the bottoms of the tables will have casters, so nothing will be touching the floor. I don’t think any of them would be exposed to much direct sun.

I don’t mind passing on the free material if it’s not worth the trouble to build. But since I’m building one for me and one for a couple of friends, “free” would be really nice.

-- I want to be good

View HokieKen's profile (online now)

HokieKen

10446 posts in 1594 days


#4 posted 12-04-2018 08:36 PM

One on the left could be Poplar. The right does look like Red Oak to me. Like Steven said, they’ll work fine if you paint them. Otherwise I’d skip them and go with Cedar or White Oak. Both are pretty commonly available in most locations.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Tony_S's profile

Tony_S

997 posts in 3538 days


#5 posted 12-05-2018 12:04 AM

Poplar and White Oak

-- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle

View pottz's profile

pottz

5791 posts in 1439 days


#6 posted 12-05-2018 12:13 AM



One on the left could be Poplar. The right does look like Red Oak to me. Like Steven said, they ll work fine if you paint them. Otherwise I d skip them and go with Cedar or White Oak. Both are pretty commonly available in most locations.

- HokieKen


+1

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1941 days


#7 posted 12-05-2018 02:28 AM

Poplar. White oak. Alder.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1354 days


#8 posted 12-05-2018 02:53 AM

I agree with the others that were right.
Poplar and White Oak

If you stare at them for 60 seconds they merge into each other and then look like Alder.

View Mcpowell's profile

Mcpowell

60 posts in 1345 days


#9 posted 12-05-2018 03:08 AM

Okay, I’m trying not to get too excited about the votes for white oak, but I’m also starting to agree with those thoughts.

I just read an article here: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/distinguishing-red-oak-from-white-oak/

I don’t have a 10X magnifier, but I do have a 30X and when I look at the endgrain under magnification it more closely matches the white oak description of clogged pores (tyloses). I wish I could get a magnified picture for you. I’ll try to think of a way to get one tomorrow.

-- I want to be good

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1941 days


#10 posted 12-05-2018 03:13 AM



I agree with the others that were right.
Poplar and White Oak

If you stare at them for 60 seconds they merge into each other and then look like Alder.

- jbay

That got a belly laugh

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View HokieKen's profile (online now)

HokieKen

10446 posts in 1594 days


#11 posted 12-05-2018 12:47 PM

Like I said, it’s definitely White Oak, not red ;-)

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1819 posts in 2931 days


#12 posted 12-05-2018 01:43 PM

I am with Tony on the poplar and white oak.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

20459 posts in 2312 days


#13 posted 12-05-2018 01:54 PM

Those 2 pieces are poplar and white oak. The next two may be red oak and walnut or some other combination. You’ll have closely ID each piece to make sure you make your whole project out of the same wood. I would think you want to do the whole thing out of white oak.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View Mcpowell's profile

Mcpowell

60 posts in 1345 days


#14 posted 12-05-2018 03:28 PM

Okay, so now I’m having a bit of fun with this. And I think I’ve gotten a good enough picture for all to confirm. By the way, your iPhone has a “magnifier” setting which is really there so those of us that need to read a menu with small font can manage. But it also works as a magnifier of end grain and then you can take a screenshot of it and post it to your buddies on lumberjocks.

-- I want to be good

View HokieKen's profile (online now)

HokieKen

10446 posts in 1594 days


#15 posted 12-05-2018 03:41 PM

Nice. Looks like White Oak to me. Although to be perfectly honest, even with magnified end grain, I still have a hard time distinguishing between red and white oak.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1354 days


#16 posted 12-05-2018 03:44 PM



Nice. Looks like White Oak to me. Although to be perfectly honest, even with magnified end grain, I still have a hard time distinguishing between red and white oak.

- HokieKen

Red Oak doesn’t have those long lightish colored rays.

View HokieKen's profile (online now)

HokieKen

10446 posts in 1594 days


#17 posted 12-05-2018 03:53 PM

It has the rays, just different color, right jbay? Or am I wrong and it lacks the rays altogether?

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

20459 posts in 2312 days


#18 posted 12-05-2018 03:59 PM

Red oak has the rays. That’s what gives the quartersawn effect. Red and white oak can be quartersawn to get the effect. White oak can be more pronounced.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1354 days


#19 posted 12-05-2018 04:13 PM

I’m no expert, but to me, the rays seem more dominate in the white oak. I guess I could be wrong, but that’s one thing I have always checked.

Here is a piece of red oak in my shop I just took a pic of with my junk android cell phone.

I see sort of grain distortion, like a ray, but not the same.

I just went and looked at the data base and the red oak end grain pics definitely show rays,
so now I don’t know shinola…....

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3395 posts in 1029 days


#20 posted 12-05-2018 10:18 PM

This is Red Oak left, WO Right

Better pic of Red Left, White Right

Note on the WO it has plugs along the dotted lines, these are called Tyloses, they are what makes WO an outdoor wood.

Note on the RO the dotted lines are constant, No Tyloses, so essentially RO is like a drinking straw, as a matter of fact you can take a slim cut of it, and put it in a glass of water and drink through it. Also why it rots easily in contact with water/wet conditions.

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3395 posts in 1029 days


#21 posted 12-05-2018 10:23 PM


Okay, so now I’m having a bit of fun with this. And I think I’ve gotten a good enough picture for all to confirm. By the way, your iPhone has a “magnifier” setting which is really there so those of us that need to read a menu with small font can manage. But it also works as a magnifier of end grain and then you can take a screenshot of it and post it to your buddies on lumberjocks.

- Mcpowell

OP’s pic is WO, and that is a cool camera. Also end grain pics do show what I though was pine to be Poplar.

A good read about the differences between red, and white oak.

Put more simply, dots open = red oak, dots closed = WO. However if water, and wet, aren’t a factor, especially with QS wood. Red Oak offers a much larger, better looking ray fleck, so for that indoor wall cabinet, I’d go RO every day.

-- Think safe, be safe

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1819 posts in 2931 days


#22 posted 12-06-2018 02:02 AM

They are not “dots”. There are called vessel elements, the common slang is “pores”.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

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