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View Chameleon's profile

Need help repairing cutting board

by Chameleon
posted 12-04-2018 05:35 PM

9 replies so far

View HokieKen's profile


11986 posts in 1742 days

#1 posted 12-04-2018 05:44 PM

You can fill the gap in the first pic with some food safe epoxy. Mix in some maple saw dust for an approximate color match or dye it for some contrast if desired. Can also buy some wood putty or make some with yellow glue and saw dust. The problem with trying to blend it is that it’s end grain and going to be hard to do. I’d be more inclined to go with an intentional color contrast.

I wouldn’t send end grain through my planer. If you choose to, make sure the blades are razor sharp and take extremely light passes. If it were me, I’d tackle that with a belt sander with some coarse paper.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View WoodenDreams's profile


883 posts in 515 days

#2 posted 12-04-2018 06:41 PM

Depending on the thickness you want the finished piece to be. Using a 3×21 or a 4×24 belt sander with 60 or 80 grit would make quick work. then change to the 120, 180 grit as to finish the sanding. Food safe epoxy is a good choice, depending on how much epoxy is needed, can be pricy.

View HokieKen's profile


11986 posts in 1742 days

#3 posted 12-04-2018 06:47 PM

Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast is the food safe epoxy I use. I don’t think it says so at the Amazon link but if you go to their website, it does state that it’s FDA compliant for direct contact with food. I dye it with liquid food coloring.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View John Smith's profile

John Smith

2131 posts in 766 days

#4 posted 12-04-2018 07:03 PM

some people run end grain cutting boards through a thickness planer all the time.
some people run an end grain cutting board through a thickness planer ~ only once.


-- I am a painter. That's what I do. I paint things --

View ChefHDAN's profile


1496 posts in 3453 days

#5 posted 12-04-2018 08:17 PM

IMO I would go back to the TS, cut those joints apart and re-glue the board either doing smaller pieces and then joining them, or using cauls to ensure the glue-up was flat. I’ve been there and done that, I think the re-glue is faster than trying to flatten with a belt sander. As for the chip out, I’d consider re-dimension-ing the piece to just cut out the flaw. Don’t worry about your mistakes, we all make them, the skill comes from learning what to do next…

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Chameleon's profile


23 posts in 679 days

#6 posted 12-05-2018 05:41 AM

Many thanks for the replies. Since I’ve never used a belt sander or worked with epoxy, I decided to make this a “maximal learning experience” and did the following: 1. Cut out the strip with the flaw, cut the “non-flat” joint, and re-glued the board (looks much better, albeit slightly smaller); 2. Ordered an inexpensive belt sander and 16 oz of the suggested epoxy so I can practice using them and have those options available in the future. Really appreciate the help!

View ChefHDAN's profile


1496 posts in 3453 days

#7 posted 12-07-2018 12:21 PM

Welcome to LJ’s Chameleon. Be sure to post a pic of your finished project,

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View bilyo's profile


959 posts in 1706 days

#8 posted 12-07-2018 03:12 PM

A couple of pointers on epoxy, if I may: Epoxy is the proper product to use in this instance. However, if you are using it to fill the boo boo in your first photo, don’t expect the repair to “disappear”. As mentioned, end grain will be hard to match. You may find that leaving the epoxy clear will give the best result. However, if you chose to add some sanding dust for color, doing it sparingly will probably work the best. I’ve found that leaving the epoxy with some translucence blends best.
Keeping the epoxy warm with a light bulb or heat lamp will make it cure faster and better. Also, 5 minute, 60 minute, or what ever formulation you use will set up within the stated time, but it will not be fully cured. Let it cure for 8 hours or more, depending on the formulation, before sanding or cutting.

View DrDirt's profile


4600 posts in 4346 days

#9 posted 12-07-2018 03:24 PM

you have to get the surface levelled anyway –
But once flat, will you can “Design” a perimiter groove as a juice tray, for catching liquids.

I know you mentioned doing a wrap with Walnut, so just rounding over wont work.

Personally I would either make the board thinner on the drum sander….or smaller at the table saw…. really don’t see a ‘patch’ that wouldn’t be obvious.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

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