All Replies on Struggles with First Time Box Joints

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Struggles with First Time Box Joints

by gauntlet21
posted 12-04-2018 02:55 PM

6 replies so far

View Steve's profile


1283 posts in 977 days

#1 posted 12-04-2018 03:15 PM

I would try with the flat top blade first before going and buying shoulder planes and other dado sets.

I don’t see why you couldn’t use the flat top blade with the Ibox jig. Or you could make your own box joint jig and use the flat top blade.

View bondogaposis's profile (online now)


5414 posts in 2746 days

#2 posted 12-04-2018 03:20 PM

Make your joints 1/4 or 1/2”, so they come out even.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View HokieKen's profile


9592 posts in 1533 days

#3 posted 12-04-2018 03:22 PM

You can use any size you want with the iBox. The jig itself is excellent. Not the simplest setup process but it more than makes up for it in speed and precision.

But, it’s really odd that your Dado stack doesn’t have flat ground teeth on the outer blades. I can’t see any good reason for that. My Freud set has alternating grinds on the teeth but still gives clean corners. I’d definitely look into replacing your dado set.

For the current project, I’d simply pare the corners clean with a sharp chisel.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Rich's profile (online now)


4493 posts in 984 days

#4 posted 12-04-2018 03:35 PM

The Incra jig can do the 1/8” joints but it’s going to be really busy looking. You’ll likely get some breakage too. The jig is not designed to do multiple passes per finger so cutting wider fingers with that blade won’t work.

I’ve been planning to do a blog post on setting up the jig for joints. Their KISS stuff all looks so easy on the video, but there are subjective factors that make it hit-or-miss, at least in my experience. Getting the guides set for the right width to fit the kerf is easy, but setting the distance to the cutter is a challenge. With a set of calipers that can measure thousandths, I can get the jig set up with just a kerf cut and a second one to measure the finger, then adjusting the silver wheel which is calibrated in thousandths to correct the finger width. Of course I always do a test joint before the real thing, but this technique has always produced a perfect joint first time.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View hairy's profile


2851 posts in 3926 days

#5 posted 12-04-2018 06:07 PM

Cutting the workpiece to final size before cutting the box joints is the hard way to do it.

Make the workpiece over size, cut the joints, then trim to final size. Usually a whole pin on the top and bottom looks best, but it’s all up to you.

-- My reality check bounced...

View a1Jim's profile (online now)


117627 posts in 3971 days

#6 posted 12-04-2018 07:04 PM

Hi Dan
I have an Ibox also but I haven’t had a chance to try it out. Is it possible for you to cut off the box joints you have now and start over or even use another piece of wood and use a size box joint you have a router bit for?

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