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All Replies on New table saw, questions on general use.

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View AshburnCustomShop's profile

New table saw, questions on general use.

by AshburnCustomShop
posted 11-26-2018 04:12 PM


8 replies so far

View jutsFL's profile

jutsFL

167 posts in 226 days


#1 posted 11-26-2018 04:23 PM

1. Check to see if it skews only when locking – ive seen this many times… Just have to be careful and check when locking it down

2. I cant say for your saw, but the 3 total TS ’ s ive owned in my life… None had a height adjustment lock, only bevel.

3. I’m with you on that one. I use my sliding miter for nearly 100 percent of them.

4. Never had an aftermarket one before.. Maybe they are better, hopefully someone will chime in

5. My 1st table saw didnt have a blade guard. The 2 I have purchased since then – I have removed said bladeguards :D

-- I've quickly learned that being a woodworker isn't about making flawless work, rather it's fixing all the mistakes you made so that it appears flawless to others! Jay - FL

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7383 posts in 2584 days


#2 posted 11-26-2018 04:26 PM

1- Miter slots should be parallel to the blade, and fence should be parallel to miter slots. If not, adjust accordingly. There is no telling what may have happened to the machine in transit.

2- Not sure, but I don’t think the height lock does anything (it’s really just a bevel lock).

3- None. If you have alternative ways that are easier, use them.

4- IMO – make a good sled instead.

5- Your old saw did have safety features when it left the factory, but were most likely taken off and lost over time. Your new saw has the same safety features, although it’s a redesigned splitter, which makes it easier to leave on the machine (and less likely to go missing). As for the blade guard – that is up to you. Some people swear by them, others curse at them.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: If you think your 1.5hp craftsman lacked power, then you will most likely think the same about your new saw, which has a bit less. To help with the lack of power, use a thin kerf blade on it.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1381 posts in 1201 days


#3 posted 11-26-2018 04:59 PM

That looks like a “jobsite” saw to me rather than a contractor saw.

View AshburnCustomShop's profile

AshburnCustomShop

9 posts in 264 days


#4 posted 11-26-2018 05:16 PM

@jutsFL – Regarding movement while locking, I was actually on this like flies on you-know-what because that was what I hated about that old table saw the most. The fence always skewed on locking and it was never, not even once, straight. I almost put it in the blacksmith forge and melted the sucker down once. New one seems to work good though.

@MrUnix – I’m watching a video on making one now, thanks for the suggestion! Regarding the 1.5hp motor, I’m not sure what it was about that old saw but I feel like it just had zero power beyond cutting 2 ply plywood… it was just weak. This one went through some thick oak last night in a test run like butter.

@ArtMann – What’s the difference between the two?

@Everyone in general – Thanks!

View JayT's profile

JayT

6198 posts in 2596 days


#5 posted 11-26-2018 05:21 PM

@ArtMann – What’s the difference between the two?

- AshburnCustomShop

Try this for a read on the difference in table saws. There’s no hard and fast rules, as the manufacturers can call them whatever they want, but this gives a good overview of what is out there.

http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154

As far as the fence, you might not have to adjust it—that style rarely gets out of alignment. What needs adjusted is the blade/motor/trunnion assembly to make the blade parallel to both fence and miter slots. There should be instructions in the manual for how to do that. Miter slots are fixed, so everything needs aligned to those, not to the blade.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1908 posts in 988 days


#6 posted 11-26-2018 05:25 PM

Congrats on your new saw. This link is at Sawstop but the general differences apply. Contractors saw = heavier, more horse power, more table in front of the blade, larger table and dust port etc.

Jobsite vs Contractors saw.

The progression is usually jobsite, contractors, hybrid and cabinet.


That looks like a “jobsite” saw to me rather than a contractor saw.

- ArtMann

Could be. Can’t see the model # or what else was in the box, but a lot of jobsite saws come with a collapsible stand with wheels.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View jonah's profile

jonah

2072 posts in 3684 days


#7 posted 11-26-2018 05:27 PM

What you have there is a jobsite saw. It’s meant to be portable. A “contractor” saw is a larger, heavier saw that is not really meant to be moved – it’s closer to a stationary saw than to the jobsite one you have. Contractor saws typically have cast iron tables and may have cast iron wings as well. These days, they have much better fences than jobsite saws – typically “t-square” style fences that are easier to adjust, stay put when you lock them, and are generally a lot better.

That’s not to say you can’t do great work with jobsite saws, but they certainly aren’t as capable as larger, heavier contractor, hybrid, or cabinet saws.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5478 posts in 3628 days


#8 posted 11-26-2018 05:40 PM

Jobsite saws usually are direct drive as opposed to belt drive on a contractors saw. I don’t think precision is one of it’s attributes. Can you imagine trying to rip a 2×10 x 12’ long board on a small jobsite saw? It may be suitable for small cutting jobs like trim work.

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