All Replies on Panel beveling

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View holsterguy's profile

Panel beveling

by holsterguy
posted 11-19-2018 09:58 AM

17 replies so far

View jmos's profile


918 posts in 3343 days

#1 posted 11-19-2018 01:53 PM

A 3” panel raising bit is pretty big for a hand held router. If you were going to try it, I would take small bites and make multiple passes.

Using a tall auxiliary fence on the tabelsaw for panel raising is a very valid method. If you want the traditional ‘step’ (a small right-angle shoulder before the taper begins) you can run the panel flat on the table first, making a shallow cut 90* to the table to define the raised area. Then bevel the blade and set up your tall fence and bevel away.

If you have a panel raising bit and a router table that is also a great way to do it. You can buy bits that will do the whole profile at one time, so you don’t have to worry about trying to add shims. I’d still do it in stages. Not a cut I’d do in a single pass.

-- John

View bandit571's profile


27510 posts in 3657 days

#2 posted 11-19-2018 02:29 PM

Some of us just use a hand plane…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View splintergroup's profile


4389 posts in 2196 days

#3 posted 11-19-2018 03:08 PM

I second Bandit’s plane suggestion. The top is a bit large to handle easily on a TS without some help (and you would probably still get some burn marks).

Your router method could be done with a smaller diameter bit with a flat tip and multiple passes (then clean up with a planer pass or a scraper)

View PPK's profile


1828 posts in 1783 days

#4 posted 11-19-2018 03:49 PM

Boy, I’d sure stay away from putting a 3” bit in a handheld router. I think that’s asking for a trip to the ER with severed something or other. Router table would be my first recommendation too, even if it was something simple. (A router table can just be a simple thick board or countertop with a hole cut in it, and a makeshift fence. Could be clamped down to sturdy saw horses or something.

Or, What about the tablesaw method, and then cleaning it up with a handplane? Hybrid!!

-- Pete

View Kirk650's profile


711 posts in 1722 days

#5 posted 11-20-2018 01:13 AM

I’ve done it with a TS and with a router table. I got a better result with the router table. If I didn’t have a router table, I would build a simple one like I built and used prior to building a big fancy one.

All that said, the TS approach worked fine, but that is a big chunk of wood to manhandle over the saw.

View Aj2's profile


3596 posts in 2772 days

#6 posted 11-20-2018 01:23 AM

Handplane is the obvious tool for the job. But it’s looking like it’s not something you have. Or you wouldn’t have asked many of us look for any reason or time to use our planes.
The next best thing would be a rasp and file. Then grind it smooth with small rocks glued to paper. :)
I hate routers

-- Aj

View canadianchips's profile


2632 posts in 3971 days

#7 posted 11-20-2018 01:52 AM

My question would be
What kind of table saw do you have ?
If you have a decent table saw that is the way I would make that bevel.
Hand plane is nice BUT… will be cutting across the grain 2 edges…....unless your plane is really sharp you might get tear out.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View holsterguy's profile


42 posts in 2032 days

#8 posted 11-20-2018 02:38 AM

Sorry for not getting back sooner, for some reason, I didn’t get any email notifications.
PPK- thats the route I was thinking. I can always clean it up with maybe a low angle block? And cabinet scraper.
Canadianchips- sorry to say getting a razor edge on a plane is definately not my strong suit. The saw is a Delta 34-444(?)contractor. If I don’t really feel comfortable, I can take it to our shop at work. They have a Powermatic cabinet saw, but it doesn’tcut as smooth as my tuned up Delta.

View AlaskaGuy's profile


6355 posts in 3283 days

#9 posted 11-20-2018 02:54 AM

View AlaskaGuy's profile


6355 posts in 3283 days

#10 posted 11-20-2018 03:24 AM

You might try building an angled sled and leave you saw blade at 90

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View theart's profile


233 posts in 1528 days

#11 posted 11-20-2018 02:44 PM

That’s about a thirty pound slab, so any jig that would safely move it across a table saw is going to have to be pretty hefty. And it sounds like you’re only doing one of these. Maybe rough cut with circular saw and straight edge, then clean it up with a hand plane? Or even a belt sander if planes aren’t your thing.

View Robert's profile


4315 posts in 2454 days

#12 posted 11-20-2018 03:11 PM

Check a guy on YouTube named Timothy Wilmots and look for his video on the round table.

He has a jig for making a bevel that is pretty clever.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View holsterguy's profile


42 posts in 2032 days

#13 posted 11-21-2018 01:48 AM

Now that’s a neet jig!

View Kirk650's profile


711 posts in 1722 days

#14 posted 11-21-2018 01:57 AM

After thinking on this a bit more, a board that size is just too big to bevel on the table saw. I think this is a router table job, or maybe Theart’s suggestion about the circular saw and a guide jig. I think I’d try the circular saw idea. It’ll need some cleanup, since the cut won’t be perfect. I think I could make that approach work..

View runswithscissors's profile


3124 posts in 2999 days

#15 posted 11-21-2018 09:20 PM

Since nobody’s mentioned this, there is another way. There are several brands of rotary planes, Wagner and Stew Mac being a couple of them. These happen to look exactly the same. They are called a “safety” plane because only a tiny amount of edge is exposed, which prevents kickback. Some older designs were pretty dangerous because they lacked this feature.

I used one on a radial drill press to make coved cuts for a raised panel roll top desk. It required tilting the horizontal arm to get the profile I wanted. It worked easily, but needed a lot of sanding to eliminate the swirl marks. Lacking a radial drill press, you could probably achieve the desired effect by tilting the drill press table.

These are (were?) also available for the radial arm saw. Google Stew Mack or Wagner Safety Plane to see one in action.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View holsterguy's profile


42 posts in 2032 days

#16 posted 11-22-2018 12:31 PM

After looking at all the replies 3 or 4 times, maybe if I take the time to make a track saw of sorts, it might work a lot better. Maybe use a 40 tooth “finish” blade to avoid tear out?

View holsterguy's profile


42 posts in 2032 days

#17 posted 11-24-2018 04:41 PM

Actually found a video this morning from the woodsmith shop showing this jig. Worked great on my test piece!

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