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View Jagerheister's profile

I crashed my Jointer to death...

by Jagerheister
posted 11-19-2018 01:40 AM


24 replies so far

View Mosquito's profile

Mosquito

9726 posts in 2655 days


#1 posted 11-19-2018 01:45 AM

Wow, that must have made one hell of a noise… Maybe someday you can find a donor machine to get an infeed table from? I would guess it wouldn’t be particularly economical to try to order a replacement

-- Mos - Twin Cities, MN - http://www.youtube.com/MosquitoMods - http://www.TheModsquito.com

View newwoodbutcher's profile

newwoodbutcher

794 posts in 3213 days


#2 posted 11-19-2018 01:50 AM

Bad luck. I feel for you. Although…... It does justify ( even in your own mind) a new toy, I mean Jointer.

-- Ken

View Richard Lee's profile

Richard Lee

240 posts in 1138 days


#3 posted 11-19-2018 02:09 AM

Lucky the machine was the only casualty, good to hear your OK.

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

51 posts in 1486 days


#4 posted 11-19-2018 02:26 AM

Has anyone heard of this happening?

I figured out that Grizzly G0490 is an almost identical clone to the DJ-20, and a few others out there. They sell the indeed table for around $220. I can’t wait to hear how much shipping will be. I’d like to find a salvage unit that I can buy locally..

I’m considering buying a new machine.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

5967 posts in 1075 days


#5 posted 11-19-2018 02:31 AM

LUCKY your not hurt I feel this could have been very bad it totally suks :<((

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5964 posts in 2772 days


#6 posted 11-19-2018 03:03 AM

That was a wow moment I am sure. Upgrade or fix, hard to say which way to go.

One thing you and other have mentioned is Delta no longer supplying parts for older machines. Heck of a way to instill confidence that when current generation of machines need parts they won’t do the same thing.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

5240 posts in 2672 days


#7 posted 11-19-2018 03:26 AM

Doesn’t seem like a good design that would allow the table to fall like that. I can leave my infeed table unlocked it might move do the vibration but it would never just fall like that.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

51 posts in 1486 days


#8 posted 11-19-2018 04:35 AM

Well, if your looking for design problems, check out that notch they put in the casting with an internal chamfer. Thats called a stress riser. It focuses all of the load at that small point where you see the crack. There is one just like it on the other side of the table.

.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2205 posts in 2161 days


#9 posted 11-19-2018 05:14 AM

Clearly you need a heavier built machine. My first jointer threw a knife and bent the out feed and infeed table,opened the knife slot like a can of tuna fish.
Don’t even try to fix it lots of great deals on heavy built jointers.

-- Aj

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3927 posts in 2351 days


#10 posted 11-19-2018 12:17 PM

Sorry about the damage.

Is it normal to run a log on a jointer?

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 866 days


#11 posted 11-19-2018 12:36 PM

One suggestion you might try…if there is a welding shop you know of that has a TIG machine…..they make a special {expensive} TIG rod for welding cast iron/cast steel with a TIG welder . We used to call it “99” because it is 99% pure nickle. It is expensive, but the rods are 3 foot long and it is sold by the pound. It wasn’t good for welding big intricate castings like cylinder heads or engine blocks, but for small to medium sized machine castings it worked pretty good. Talk to the welder, if he has used it and is comfortable with it then I would sure give it a try. He might have to order the rod and might want some money up front because not every welding shop or supplier keeps it on the shelf because of the price. It’s not crazy high, but when you consider a pound of aluminum rod or chrome moly steel, the whole bundle cost less than one nickle rod {$20-$40}.
It works better if you pre-heat the parts first and put them back in an oven afterwards to cool slowly. Once done it is as strong or better than the casting before it broke. Used to use it all the time when I ran a machine shop. Many welders don’t use it or even know it exist. Not sure if they are still in business, but an outfit called “Palco” used to make an excellent cast rod for use with a DC shielded metal arc welder. It was expensive too, but again, not crazy.

View edapp's profile

edapp

258 posts in 1793 days


#12 posted 11-19-2018 01:07 PM

I bet that was scary!! I have the same jointer, and will be keeping an eye on that table lock lever from now on…

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

9043 posts in 2691 days


#13 posted 11-19-2018 02:20 PM

Wow… that’s a catastrophic failure. You might be able to have it clamped back into shape welded, but welding cast iron is tricky and you’ll need to find someone who’s good at it.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View DBDesigns's profile

DBDesigns

217 posts in 360 days


#14 posted 11-19-2018 02:45 PM

Sorry that happened to you. Must have scared the heck out of you.
Delta has been through several ownership changes so that might explain why they are not carrying old parts anymore.
I’m agree with others. Time for a new Jointer. There is some pretty good iron out there these days and Christmas is very soon.

-- I remember when Grateful wasn't Dead

View mel52's profile

mel52

810 posts in 627 days


#15 posted 11-19-2018 03:51 PM

If that had happened to me, I would probably be looking to get some clean underwear !!!! Good luck on getting it fixed.

-- MEL, Kansas

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1402 posts in 3124 days


#16 posted 11-20-2018 06:12 PM

A thumbs up on doing a weld or braze (uses brass). I have brazed cast iron with brass using my oxy-acetelyne torch. I will strongly advise you to take it to a welder who knows what he is doing as cast iron and its own set of quirks. And make sure the part is properly aligned when doing this. IF the crack runs through a machined area though, you will have to get a machine shop to re-machine the fixed area on the casting, a somewhat expensive cost. You may have to buy a replacement casting if possible.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5918 posts in 3176 days


#17 posted 11-20-2018 07:26 PM

Wow! I didn’t know you could break a DJ-20. They are so solid and rubust.

It’s a good reminder to lock down those infeed tables good and tight.

My gut feeling is this machine is a total loss. Sell it for parts, and start fresh with another machine.
I think I paid $500 for my used DJ-20 in prestine condition.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

2205 posts in 2161 days


#18 posted 11-20-2018 07:41 PM

I can’t believe so many suggestions to fix that jointer. You guys are weird :(

-- Aj

View Jack_Wilson's profile

Jack_Wilson

20 posts in 223 days


#19 posted 11-20-2018 09:34 PM

Wow! Sorry man, that’s a drag.

-- I'm older than I wanna be, and better looking than I should be.

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

506 posts in 2094 days


#20 posted 11-20-2018 10:53 PM

that sucks!

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

586 posts in 274 days


#21 posted 12-13-2018 06:35 AM

Check with a local welder. You’d be amazed on the quality of build up fabricating, and repairs a quality welder can do.

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

1305 posts in 2398 days


#22 posted 12-13-2018 12:48 PM



One suggestion you might try…if there is a welding shop you know of that has a TIG machine…..they make a special {expensive} TIG rod for welding cast iron/cast steel with a TIG welder . We used to call it “99” because it is 99% pure nickle. It is expensive, but the rods are 3 foot long and it is sold by the pound. It wasn t good for welding big intricate castings like cylinder heads or engine blocks, but for small to medium sized machine castings it worked pretty good. Talk to the welder, if he has used it and is comfortable with it then I would sure give it a try. He might have to order the rod and might want some money up front because not every welding shop or supplier keeps it on the shelf because of the price. It s not crazy high, but when you consider a pound of aluminum rod or chrome moly steel, the whole bundle cost less than one nickle rod {$20-$40}.
It works better if you pre-heat the parts first and put them back in an oven afterwards to cool slowly. Once done it is as strong or better than the casting before it broke. Used to use it all the time when I ran a machine shop. Many welders don t use it or even know it exist. Not sure if they are still in business, but an outfit called “Palco” used to make an excellent cast rod for use with a DC shielded metal arc welder. It was expensive too, but again, not crazy.

- msinc

I had an old welder fix up a cracked cast iron head for me once. He used the high nickel rod as you say. Did a bang-up job too. He didn’t do the heat thing, but he did shot peen the heck out of it after welding every half inch or so. He used an air hammer with the shot peen attachment.
He told me that helped take the stress out of the weld.

-- Jim, Georgia, USA

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

1305 posts in 2398 days


#23 posted 12-13-2018 12:50 PM

But I’d be inclined to get another jointer. It’s hard to get parts for that thing. I used to work on an identical jointer at another place of employment. I tried to get some gib screws for it several years ago, and there were only 8 in the entire country.

-- Jim, Georgia, USA

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

51 posts in 1486 days


#24 posted 12-13-2018 03:56 PM

Thanks for the input.

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