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View Jagerheister's profile

I crashed my Jointer to death...

by Jagerheister
posted 11-19-2018 01:40 AM


33 replies so far

View Mosquito's profile

Mosquito

10440 posts in 3146 days


#1 posted 11-19-2018 01:45 AM

Wow, that must have made one hell of a noise… Maybe someday you can find a donor machine to get an infeed table from? I would guess it wouldn’t be particularly economical to try to order a replacement

-- Mos - Twin Cities, MN - http://www.youtube.com/MosquitoMods - http://www.TheModsquito.com

View newwoodbutcher's profile

newwoodbutcher

817 posts in 3704 days


#2 posted 11-19-2018 01:50 AM

Bad luck. I feel for you. Although…... It does justify ( even in your own mind) a new toy, I mean Jointer.

-- Ken

View Richard Lee's profile

Richard Lee

306 posts in 1629 days


#3 posted 11-19-2018 02:09 AM

Lucky the machine was the only casualty, good to hear your OK.

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

67 posts in 1977 days


#4 posted 11-19-2018 02:26 AM

Has anyone heard of this happening?

I figured out that Grizzly G0490 is an almost identical clone to the DJ-20, and a few others out there. They sell the indeed table for around $220. I can’t wait to hear how much shipping will be. I’d like to find a salvage unit that I can buy locally..

I’m considering buying a new machine.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

7790 posts in 1566 days


#5 posted 11-19-2018 02:31 AM

LUCKY your not hurt I feel this could have been very bad it totally suks :<((

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

6181 posts in 3262 days


#6 posted 11-19-2018 03:03 AM

That was a wow moment I am sure. Upgrade or fix, hard to say which way to go.

One thing you and other have mentioned is Delta no longer supplying parts for older machines. Heck of a way to instill confidence that when current generation of machines need parts they won’t do the same thing.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6005 posts in 3163 days


#7 posted 11-19-2018 03:26 AM

Doesn’t seem like a good design that would allow the table to fall like that. I can leave my infeed table unlocked it might move do the vibration but it would never just fall like that.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

67 posts in 1977 days


#8 posted 11-19-2018 04:35 AM

Well, if your looking for design problems, check out that notch they put in the casting with an internal chamfer. Thats called a stress riser. It focuses all of the load at that small point where you see the crack. There is one just like it on the other side of the table.

.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3344 posts in 2651 days


#9 posted 11-19-2018 05:14 AM

Clearly you need a heavier built machine. My first jointer threw a knife and bent the out feed and infeed table,opened the knife slot like a can of tuna fish.
Don’t even try to fix it lots of great deals on heavy built jointers.

-- Aj

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4878 posts in 2842 days


#10 posted 11-19-2018 12:17 PM

Sorry about the damage.

Is it normal to run a log on a jointer?

View msinc's profile

msinc

567 posts in 1357 days


#11 posted 11-19-2018 12:36 PM

One suggestion you might try…if there is a welding shop you know of that has a TIG machine…..they make a special {expensive} TIG rod for welding cast iron/cast steel with a TIG welder . We used to call it “99” because it is 99% pure nickle. It is expensive, but the rods are 3 foot long and it is sold by the pound. It wasn’t good for welding big intricate castings like cylinder heads or engine blocks, but for small to medium sized machine castings it worked pretty good. Talk to the welder, if he has used it and is comfortable with it then I would sure give it a try. He might have to order the rod and might want some money up front because not every welding shop or supplier keeps it on the shelf because of the price. It’s not crazy high, but when you consider a pound of aluminum rod or chrome moly steel, the whole bundle cost less than one nickle rod {$20-$40}.
It works better if you pre-heat the parts first and put them back in an oven afterwards to cool slowly. Once done it is as strong or better than the casting before it broke. Used to use it all the time when I ran a machine shop. Many welders don’t use it or even know it exist. Not sure if they are still in business, but an outfit called “Palco” used to make an excellent cast rod for use with a DC shielded metal arc welder. It was expensive too, but again, not crazy.

View edapp's profile

edapp

342 posts in 2283 days


#12 posted 11-19-2018 01:07 PM

I bet that was scary!! I have the same jointer, and will be keeping an eye on that table lock lever from now on…

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

9656 posts in 3182 days


#13 posted 11-19-2018 02:20 PM

Wow… that’s a catastrophic failure. You might be able to have it clamped back into shape welded, but welding cast iron is tricky and you’ll need to find someone who’s good at it.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View DBDesigns's profile

DBDesigns

232 posts in 851 days


#14 posted 11-19-2018 02:45 PM

Sorry that happened to you. Must have scared the heck out of you.
Delta has been through several ownership changes so that might explain why they are not carrying old parts anymore.
I’m agree with others. Time for a new Jointer. There is some pretty good iron out there these days and Christmas is very soon.

-- I remember when Grateful wasn't Dead

View mel52's profile

mel52

1654 posts in 1118 days


#15 posted 11-19-2018 03:51 PM

If that had happened to me, I would probably be looking to get some clean underwear !!!! Good luck on getting it fixed.

-- MEL, Kansas

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1517 posts in 3614 days


#16 posted 11-20-2018 06:12 PM

A thumbs up on doing a weld or braze (uses brass). I have brazed cast iron with brass using my oxy-acetelyne torch. I will strongly advise you to take it to a welder who knows what he is doing as cast iron and its own set of quirks. And make sure the part is properly aligned when doing this. IF the crack runs through a machined area though, you will have to get a machine shop to re-machine the fixed area on the casting, a somewhat expensive cost. You may have to buy a replacement casting if possible.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

6206 posts in 3667 days


#17 posted 11-20-2018 07:26 PM

Wow! I didn’t know you could break a DJ-20. They are so solid and rubust.

It’s a good reminder to lock down those infeed tables good and tight.

My gut feeling is this machine is a total loss. Sell it for parts, and start fresh with another machine.
I think I paid $500 for my used DJ-20 in prestine condition.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3344 posts in 2651 days


#18 posted 11-20-2018 07:41 PM

I can’t believe so many suggestions to fix that jointer. You guys are weird :(

-- Aj

View Jack_Wilson's profile

Jack_Wilson

23 posts in 714 days


#19 posted 11-20-2018 09:34 PM

Wow! Sorry man, that’s a drag.

-- I'm older than I wanna be, and better looking than I should be.

View Bill_Steele's profile

Bill_Steele

723 posts in 2585 days


#20 posted 11-20-2018 10:53 PM

that sucks!

View WoodenDreams's profile (online now)

WoodenDreams

1125 posts in 764 days


#21 posted 12-13-2018 06:35 AM

Check with a local welder. You’d be amazed on the quality of build up fabricating, and repairs a quality welder can do.

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

1525 posts in 2889 days


#22 posted 12-13-2018 12:48 PM



One suggestion you might try…if there is a welding shop you know of that has a TIG machine…..they make a special {expensive} TIG rod for welding cast iron/cast steel with a TIG welder . We used to call it “99” because it is 99% pure nickle. It is expensive, but the rods are 3 foot long and it is sold by the pound. It wasn t good for welding big intricate castings like cylinder heads or engine blocks, but for small to medium sized machine castings it worked pretty good. Talk to the welder, if he has used it and is comfortable with it then I would sure give it a try. He might have to order the rod and might want some money up front because not every welding shop or supplier keeps it on the shelf because of the price. It s not crazy high, but when you consider a pound of aluminum rod or chrome moly steel, the whole bundle cost less than one nickle rod {$20-$40}.
It works better if you pre-heat the parts first and put them back in an oven afterwards to cool slowly. Once done it is as strong or better than the casting before it broke. Used to use it all the time when I ran a machine shop. Many welders don t use it or even know it exist. Not sure if they are still in business, but an outfit called “Palco” used to make an excellent cast rod for use with a DC shielded metal arc welder. It was expensive too, but again, not crazy.

- msinc

I had an old welder fix up a cracked cast iron head for me once. He used the high nickel rod as you say. Did a bang-up job too. He didn’t do the heat thing, but he did shot peen the heck out of it after welding every half inch or so. He used an air hammer with the shot peen attachment.
He told me that helped take the stress out of the weld.

-- Jim, Georgia, USA

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

1525 posts in 2889 days


#23 posted 12-13-2018 12:50 PM

But I’d be inclined to get another jointer. It’s hard to get parts for that thing. I used to work on an identical jointer at another place of employment. I tried to get some gib screws for it several years ago, and there were only 8 in the entire country.

-- Jim, Georgia, USA

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

67 posts in 1977 days


#24 posted 12-13-2018 03:56 PM

Thanks for the input.

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

67 posts in 1977 days


#25 posted 05-31-2019 01:00 AM

I resolved this issue, and made a video to document what I did.

Thanks all for the help!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50SZ809LoBUhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50SZ809LoBU

View squasher's profile

squasher

3 posts in 27 days


#26 posted 08-30-2020 06:31 PM

I own a nearly identical jointer (it’s branded an Invicta) and need to disassemble it to make it light enough to carry to my basement.

I’ve watched the YouTube video linked above and it’s a fabulous resource but is light on the details of how to disassemble the unit into its various parts. Anyone know where I can go to give me some helpful advice and tips on how to do this?

One problem that I’ve discovered with the Invicta model: The base is rock solid and made of heavy folded sheet metal. Unfortunately, there are almost no removable plates that give you access to the undersides of the jointer to loosen the bolts and brackets that are needed to disassemble the jointer.

I may have to resort to flipping the entire unit on its side to give me access to the underside but 1) it’s awkward and 2) am hoping that there’s a better way.

Please help with any suggestions.

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

67 posts in 1977 days


#27 posted 08-30-2020 06:43 PM

Can you take a picture? On mine there were 2 side panels that come off with screws. removal of these 2 side panels gives you access to 4 he’s head cap screws that connect the base to the large casting of the jointer. You will also need to take the belt off. On the top, there is a housing guard that covers the spindle pulley. I want to say that you need to remove this before you can get the pulley off, but the details are hazy at this point. Once you get the belt off, you can just lift the top off. Make sure you support the top by holding the tables as far in board as you can so you don’t stress the table top. post some pics and I may be able to walk you through it.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

6281 posts in 1428 days


#28 posted 08-30-2020 07:17 PM



One suggestion you might try…if there is a welding shop you know of that has a TIG machine…..they make a special {expensive} TIG rod for welding cast iron/cast steel with a TIG welder . We used to call it “99” because it is 99% pure nickle. It is expensive, but the rods are 3 foot long and it is sold by the pound. It wasn t good for welding big intricate castings like cylinder heads or engine blocks, but for small to medium sized machine castings it worked pretty good. Talk to the welder, if he has used it and is comfortable with it then I would sure give it a try. He might have to order the rod and might want some money up front because not every welding shop or supplier keeps it on the shelf because of the price. It s not crazy high, but when you consider a pound of aluminum rod or chrome moly steel, the whole bundle cost less than one nickle rod {$20-$40}.
It works better if you pre-heat the parts first and put them back in an oven afterwards to cool slowly. Once done it is as strong or better than the casting before it broke. Used to use it all the time when I ran a machine shop. Many welders don t use it or even know it exist. Not sure if they are still in business, but an outfit called “Palco” used to make an excellent cast rod for use with a DC shielded metal arc welder. It was expensive too, but again, not crazy.

- msinc

At my last job they had miles of cast iron, and the guys were constantly welding processes that needed tons of pressure, and they had some really talented guys, and yes, Cast Iron can be successfully welded. but just not by any welder. Cost will be at the higher end of welds, but less than underwater work.

-- Think safe, be safe

View squasher's profile

squasher

3 posts in 27 days


#29 posted 08-30-2020 11:12 PM



Can you take a picture? On mine there were 2 side panels that come off with screws. removal of these 2 side panels gives you access to 4 he s head cap screws that connect the base to the large casting of the jointer. You will also need to take the belt off. On the top, there is a housing guard that covers the spindle pulley. I want to say that you need to remove this before you can get the pulley off, but the details are hazy at this point. Once you get the belt off, you can just lift the top off. Make sure you support the top by holding the tables as far in board as you can so you don t stress the table top. post some pics and I may be able to walk you through it.

I was able to remove the top from the base of my jointer but only after I flipped the jointer onto its side. The Invicta base was simply NOT designed for this task as it is nearly impossible any other way. They didn’t design any removable plates to allow access. See my pictures below.

I have now removed a majority of the parts that hold the outfeed and infeed tables to the main casting of the jointer base. I am now stuck trying to figure out how to remove the springs that hold the tables in place….

If you have any suggestions on how to remove the springs and how to put them back when I’m all finished, I’m all ears.

View Notw's profile

Notw

790 posts in 2607 days


#30 posted 08-31-2020 06:46 PM

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

67 posts in 1977 days


#31 posted 09-02-2020 03:25 AM

Sorry about the pic quality, but LJ doesn’t like the file size/format coming out of my phone…

You have and remove the inboard parallel bar and lay the jointer on it’s side. (Please ignore the fact that I have a bar inserted in the base casting and in the indeed table in the picture). This step allows you to then rotate the table about the remaining outboard parallel bar to close the gap common to the base casting and the infeed or outfield table. This removes tension from the spring, and allows you to remove it from the eye of the tension stud. Use a screw driver or needle nose pliers to manipulate the spring.

To reinstall it, in the same orientation, you install the spring on one side, then close the gap by rotating the table, and loop the spring hook back into the eye of the spring tension stud.

the 3rd picture shows you which bar needs to be removed… good luck, all I recall is that it was a PIA to get the hook back in the hole… lol.

A picture is worth 1000 words.

View squasher's profile

squasher

3 posts in 27 days


#32 posted 09-02-2020 12:55 PM

Thanks for the pictures and your efforts.

I have all the parallel bars removed from the main jointer casting so I think I just have to wrestle with it and remove the springs with as much brute force as possible.

I was hoping that there might be a useful tool that would help the job of removing/reinstalling the springs but I guess there’s nothing like a little sweat and a pair of pliers or screwdriver to get the job done. I’m sure the people who originally built these had some tricks and/or tools up their sleeves.

Thanks again

View Jagerheister's profile

Jagerheister

67 posts in 1977 days


#33 posted 09-02-2020 01:15 PM

I agree, it was a little perplexing to me as well. It took some effort, but I was able to make it work.

Good luck

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